condensed from: THE COMPANY TOWN IN THE AMERICAN WEST

By James B. Allen

Univ. of Oklahoma press, 1966



                                           THE LUMBER TOWN

  	An important aspect of American economic and social history which has

received little formal attention from historians is the rise and decline of the

company-owned town.  The literature of American History is punctuated with

accounts of many kinds of communities: the New England village, the socialistic

Utopian community, the frontier outfitting post, the rough-and-tumble mining

camp, the cow town of the Great Plains,  the Mormon village in the Great Basin,

and, in modern times, the big city and it's sprawling suburbs.

     Each of these different types of communities have had their stories told,

and each story has become a familiar part of the general picture of American

development.  Almost neglected, however, has been the company-owned town. 

Hundreds of these relatively isolated, one-industry communities have dotted all

parts of the American map, and are still playing important roles in the economic

life  of their particular regions.

     WHAT IS A COMPANY TOWN?: At first glance, it might be defined simply as any

community which has been built wholly to support the operations of a single

company, in which all homes, buildings, and other real estate property are owned

by that company, having been acquired or erected specifically for the benefit of

it's employees, and in which the company provides most public services.  

	The significance of the company town in the American West is seen partly in the

almost unanimous response from management of two questions:  "Why did the

company town come into existence?" and "Why are company towns so rapidly

disappearing from the scene?"  Almost invariably the answer to the first

question is that the company town was an economic necessity to the company

involved.  Companies often established themselves in isolated areas found it

necessary to provide housing for workers in order to get them to come.  The

company, furthermore, could not sell lots, for the land might someday prove

worth developing.  All this led to a need for the company to provide a system of

community regulations well as facilities for recreation, medical care, and all

other services required in any residential area.  Lumber companies often set up

operations in remote forest areas so removed from civilization that it would

have been impractical for men to commute, even on weekends.  The company town,

therefore, became especially significant in the successful expansion of the

mining and lumber industries of the west.

     The answer to the second query: "Why are company towns so rapidly

disappearing from the scene?"  serves to emphasize the significance of the

first.  Depleted timber supplies have eliminated many towns.  Others, however,

simply have been sold to employees as management have become convinced that

company ownership is no longer needed.  Modern highways, automobiles, and other

developments in transportation have brought the communities of the west much

closer together.  No longer are even the more isolated villages so far from

civilization that the company is compelled to provide stores, churches, and

other necessities of community life.  Many companies are frank to admit that

company towns are an economic burden which they would gladly relinquish.

		Most company town s in the lumber industry were established in connection with

sawmills, but housing and other facilities were also provided for logging crews.

 Logging camps did not generally become towns, for the nature of logging itself

demanded that crews keep moving to new cutting areas.  Practically every large

lumber company provided cook houses, bunkhouses and a commissary for its logging

crews.  Many shacks were built so that wheels could be attached for easy

movement to new locations, and others were built on skids.



	THE SHORT LIVED TOWN:  The lumber industry frequently has been criticized for

its early practice of going into an area of virgin timber, establishing a mill,

and want only cutting out an entire area.  Much timber was wasted when only the

choice trees and the choice parts of the trees were milled, the rest being

burned or left to rot.  A soon as an area was "cut out" the lumbermen would move

to new stands of timber, abandoning many mill settlements.  Most were completely

deserted, although remnants of theirs may still exist as small settlements

supporting farming communities.  In Mendocino County, for example, the tiny

settlement of Nacarro was once a small company-owned community called Wendling,

but today only a few ranches and an Italian cafe mark the area.



	ECONOMIC CHANGES AND COMPANY TOWNS:  A dramatic illustration of the changing

pattern of the lumber industry and its effect upon company towns is seen in the

story of Rockport.  This settlement on the Mendocino County coast began in the

1880's as a typical lumber camp.  The mill was located near an inlet from the

ocean so that lumber could be shipped via company vessels to San Francisco.  The

town grew slowly as it passed through the hands of the various owners.  In 1938,

the present owner, Rockport Redwood Company took over.



	When the sawmill shut down in 1957, the town's population was about five

hundred.  All the typical features of a company store, community hall, doctor. 

Today, however, practically all houses are deserted and Rockport is no longer a

legitimate town.  The Rockport area is now a giant tree farm.



	The development of giant corporations in the lumber industry has had an

influence upon company towns.  The original founder of a mill town, in most

cases, had a personal interest in the community.  His company was small enough

that he knew the people of the town; and if he did not live in the town, he

frequently visited it.  With the modern trend toward consolidation, however, has

come decreasing personal interest.  As properties are acquired in widely

separated areas, the president of a company has little to do directly with the

residents of any town which may happen to be acquired in consolidation process. 

It is not in their interest, furthermore, for the corporations to continue to

provide services once offered in the company town, for the advancement of

civilization has given easy access to these towns, and employees can commute

from elsewhere.  Existing housing may be sold to tenants, for the security given

by the long-term nature of the business promises continued life to the

community.  If the company town is retained, it is often used as a residential

area for key personnel, with the majority of the workers living in nearby

communities.  In short, the company town is nothing more than a passing detail

when compared with the vast operations of some of today's huge enterprises.  The

town have had their place in the development of the lumber industry but are only

incidental to the corporations which are now acquiring them.

	

	A case in point is Georgia-Pacific's take-over of Hammond Lumber Company in

1956.  Two Humboldt company towns were affected by this transaction:  Crannell

and Samoa.  Georgia-Pacific soon decided to eliminate the mill in Crannell as

well as the town itself, and everything except a few of the newer houses was

dismantled.  One company town, therefore, was completely removed from the scene.

 Samoa, on the other hand, which was the center of the Hammond operations, was

maintained; but with a changed atmosphere.  A.B. Hammond, founder of Hammond

Lumber Company had taken a keen personal interest in the town and its people. 

Today, there seems to be little personal interest in the town as such on the

part of top management, although company officials at the site who were once a

part of the Hammond organization still take pride in the community.  The town is

maintained basically for key personnel, and low-cost housing is part of their

incentive.



	TOWNS WHICH ENDURE:  Of all the lumber company towns in the West, Scotia has

probably received the most publicity.  The history of Scotia began about 1885

when the Pacific Lumber Company built a railroad into Forestville, as Scotia was

known, and the following year constructed a mill.  The settlement was located on

a large bend of the Eel River.  By 1888 the company was the top producer of

redwood in Humboldt County, and the name of the settlement was changed to

Scotia, reflecting the Nova Scotian heritage of its founders.  Over the years,

Scotia grew from a haphazard arrangement of shacks to a well-ordered community

of nicely painted homes.  The company once operated its own store, saloon, bank,

hotel, theater, hospital and all other facilities needed by the town.



	Residents in Scotia take a great deal of pride in their community and rightly

so.  The 304 houses in the town are always full, and there is a waiting list of

people eager to move in.  A three-bedroom home, with electricity and water

furnished the garbage collected, rents for sixty dollars a month.  The town is

well maintained and the tenants take great interest in keeping up their lawns

and gardens.  The company policy of awarding prizes each year contributes to

this.  The Pacific Lumber Company uses modern methods of forest management in

its vast timber holdings, and Scotia will probably thrive for many year to come.



	Scotia, however, has been affected by the changing economic pattern of the

modern age.  It is no longer an isolated community, since U.S. 101 runs past the

town.  Other communities are within driving distance, and the company no longer

finds it necessary to provide all the facilities in once did.  The town's

theater has been closed, the hospital has been eliminated, and all company

operated retail business has been turned over to private properties.



	The company has strived to make Scotia a tourist attraction, incidentally

perhaps advertising Pacific Lumber Company.  In the center of town a small

museum is maintained which tells the story of Scotia and of redwood lumbering in

general.  In addition, any tourist may take a self-guided tour through the giant

mill at Scotia.  Catwalks have been constructed about the mill operations and

explanatory signs placed at strategic places so that the tourist may watch what

happens to a giant redwood log from the time it enters the powerful "barker"

until it becomes finished lumber.



	In summary, the company town has played an important role in the development of

the West's lumber industry.  In early years many companies found it necessary to

provide housing and community services for their employees as they established

sawmills and logging headquarters in isolated areas.  Company towns were often

short-lived as timber lands were cut away and mills moved on to other locations.

 With the building of modern highways, and other advancements in transportation,

the need for company towns gradually has been eliminated.



COMPANY TOWNS

ALBION (lumber mill). Albion occupies a beautiful setting on the Mendocino coast

and was the sight of a lumber mill in the 1850's. The company-owned community

developed about the turn of the century and was operated by various companies,

beginning in 1891 with the Albion Lumber Company and ending in 1928 when the

mill was owned by Southern Pacific. The mill stood idle until 1940 when it was

dismantled and all buildings and machinery sold. Former company-owned houses

which remain are all privately owned.

     CRANNELL (lumber mill) The Little River Redwood Company started operation

of a sawmill at Crannell in 1909. The entire town was built and maintained by

the company. It was an attractive community with about 135 well-painted houses,

good roads, etc. In 1931 the company merged with Hammond Lumber Company, which

then assumed control. Within a year, the Crannell sawmill was shut down, and

subsequently it was dismantled because the Hammond Lumber Company had other

facilities on Humboldt Bay. In 1955, Georgia-Pacific Corporation bought the

Hammond Company, and soon tore down most of the old homes at Crannell.

     FALK (lumber mill) The Elk River Mill and Lumber Company began operations

about 1884. The mill was located in a valley, and the town thus grew all over

the hills. The company operated a boarding-house, cook house and hotel and owned

several homes. Operations were discontinued in 1937, and the town was eventually

abandoned. Nothing remains today.

     KORBEL (lumber mill) Settlement at Korbel, once called North Fork, was

begun in the 1880's when the Korbel brothers began milling operations there. In

1913 the property passed into the hands of Northern Redwood Lumber Company, and

in 1956 Simpson Timber Company took over. Korbel was once a full-fledged company

town of around one hundred homes, with company store, recreation hall, etc.

Simpson has eliminated all services except for a few company houses, and these

are gradually being done away with.

     In summary, the company town has played an important role inn the

development of the West's lumber industry.  In early years many companies found

it necessary to provide housing and community services for their employees as

they established sawmills and logging headquarters in isolated areas.  Company

towns were often short-lived as timber lands were cut away and mills moved on to

other locations.  With the building of modern highways, and other advancements

in transportation, the need for company towns gradually has been eliminated.

     Most company towns in the lumber industry were established in connection

with sawmills, but housing and other facilities were also provided for logging

crews. Logging camps did not generally become towns, for the nature of logging

itself demanded that crews keep moving to new cutting areas. Practically every

large lumber company demanded cooking houses, Bunk houses, and a commissary for

its logging crews. Many shacks were built so that wheels could be attached for

easy movement to new locations, and others were built on skids.

     The Short Lived Town: The lumber industry frequently has been criticized

for its early practice of going into the area of virgin timber, establishing a

mill and wantonly cutting out an entire area.



METROPOLITAN (lumber mill).  This small town began with the establishment of a

mill by the Metropolitan Lumber Co. about 1905.  The company closed it's

operations about 1923 and all houses were eventually removed.



NAVARO (lumber mill).  Formerly called Wendling, the tiny mill town of Navaro

was begun in 1903 when the Wendling Mill and Lumber Co. Built a saw mill.  In

1905 it was purchased by Stearn's Lumber Co., and in 1913 the Navaro Lumber Co.

Took over; the mill was purchased by the Albion Lumber Co. In 1920 and ceased

operations in 1927.  Today nothing remains of the original mill and settlement.



NAVARO-BY-THE-SEA (lumber mill).  This was another tiny settlement of only about

15 houses.  The mill was operated by the Navaro Lumber Co. In the later 19th

century, closing in 1890.  Today the area is an ocean side resort.



NEWBURG (lumber mill).  Newburg was a small company town supporting the mill of

the Eel River Valley Lumber Co. from the 1880's until the 1930's.  The

settlement was abandoned when the mill closed during the depression.



ROCKPORT (lumber mill.)  Lumber mill operations existed at Rockport as early as

1880's, and a camp gradually arose in that area.  Early employees were mostly

single men and lived in cabins. The first modern family dwellings were built in

1925 by Finkbine-Guild Lumber Company.  The Rockport Redwood Company took over

in 1938.  The sawmill was shot down in 1957, when the town had a population of

about 500.  Rockport was once a full-fledged company town, but now only a few

houses are maintained for the benefit of the small number of men needed to

manage the company's tree farm.



SAMOA (lumber mill).  Located on a peninsula in Humboldt Bay, the town of Samoa

was established buy the Vance Lumber Company, which built a mill there in the

1890's. In 1901 the property was taken over by the Hammond Lumber Company which

operated a pleasant, fully paternalistic company town. Georgia-Pacific acquired

the Hammond Company in 1956 and since then has eliminated the company store. 

Homes are

still company owned and maintained.  The bungalow-type homes and well-kept yards

make Samoa one of the more attractive company towns.



SCOTIA (lumber mill). One of the best-known company towns in California, Scotia

is still owned completely by the Pacific Lumber Company.  Here are located the

company's huge redwood mill and lumber manufacturing plant.  Sawmill operations

began in the 1880's, and the settlement was first called Forestville, the name

being changed in 1888. The Pacific Lumber Company once owned every businesses

enterprise in 

the town, including a store, theater, bank, hospital, butcher shop and hotel.

Today only the hotel is operated by the company, with other businesses leased to

private firms.

The old bank building now houses a museum.





From THE HUMBOLDT TIMES

	December 30, 1897



		SCRAPS OF EARLY HUMBOLDT HISTORY



	Some detached fragments of early history of the county have been resurrected,

and the flavor of old Fort Humboldt attaches to them all.  When Mrs.  Bertie

McNulty, (now Mrs. Henry A. Hansen, Fortuna) was commissioned as postmaster of

Beatrice, one article of furniture assigned her was an old cabinet or secretary

formerly in use in the Bucksport Post Office of early days.  Tucked snugly away

in the article military muster-rolls, official correspondence for the years

1859, '60, '61, and '62 and duplicates of the quarterly reports from the

Bucksport Post Office to the Post Office Department for the year 1862--35 years

ago.  To a postmaster of the present time the latest named documents would be

curious indeed.  But they tell a story of rapid increase in population, progress

and enlightenment during 35 years.  The muster roles of Companies A, H, and I,

2nd Infantry, Cal Volunteers, will be reminders that increasing Indian troubles

in 1862 caused the mustering of the Battalion of Mountaineers the following

year.



	The roster of A Company showed the following names:  Charles E. Simonton, Henry

Clendenen, William Laurence, John W. Hayes, William E. Mason, P.O. Herlaw, M.

Hanrahan, H.C. Penwell, Silas Smith, H. Thomas, William P. Anderson, James

Browne, Daniel Brannan, William Carroll, George Davis, Juls Day, Smith J. Day,

Edward Doland, Stephan Edwards, John S. Ecans, Peter F. Ferguson, James Grant,

James Green, High Hetherington, William Hines, Joseph W. Ray, Sam H. Laycraft,

Rufus Littlefield, Jr., Timothy Lynch, Fred Mack, D. Molloy, Charles Moore,

Jeremiah J. McCarthy, John McMahon, Frank Nolan, Henry W. Nutt, H. Pheasant,

Charles Rose, H. Stibbs, Thomas Vondy, John L. Walker, John White, Joseph

Geakle.  The location of the company was not stated on the roster.



	Company H, 2nd Infantry, was stationed at Fort Humboldt, although about

one-half its members were quartered at Fort Gaston.  The roster shows as

follows:  Captain W.H. Short, 1st Lt. John Moholland, 2nd Lt. William Campbell,

1st Sgt. George A. Knickerbocker, Sgts. James Otterson, James Gillies, M.

Fitzsimmons, and Isaac C. Glover, Cpls. Sam L. Taylor, James C. Brown, Lyman

Fink, Daniel Scoby, Nathan Smith, A.W. McFadden, Charles D. Greene, and E.W.

L'Hommedieu, musicians Francis E. Howard and William Place and 61 privates.



	Fort Humboldt was the headquarters of Company I, 2nd Infantry, although the men

were about equally distributed between this post and Fort Gaston.  It numbered

94 officers and privates and was in command of Captain E. R. Theller, Alfred

Mort, 1st Lt. And  Robert Schindler, 2nd Lt.



	On roster marked "A" without further explanation, shows that the names given

were scattered to the extent of being located at Fort Humboldt, Brehmer's Ranch,

Fort Gaston and Reed's Ranch.  It includes the names of William H. Allen, John

Donnelly, Ed LeConte, I.W. Hempfield, John Kelly, A.P. Marble and John P.

Warren.





From: SCATTERING REMARKS OF INTEREST--

PAST AND PRESENT by Will N. Speegle,

	 (The Humboldt Times) August, 1947

   (The McKinley Statue)



IT'S THERE TO BE SEEN

     People with an eye to see who visit Arcata cannot help notice the McKinley

statue that adorns the center of the attractive plaza that is such a fine

addition to the business section of that city.  Most early-day California cities

had their plazas, a feature provided by the early Spanish settlers in the state,

but of late years many of the plazas of old have been eliminated by the erection

of official or business houses thereon.

     Eureka once had a plaza.  It was a block on which the courthouse stands. 

Santa Rosa had a plaza in right the center of town and that once recreational

spot which was presented to the city by Julio Carillo, owner of a Spanish land

grant in that community, is now the site of the courthouse of Sonoma county

which is right in the center if the beautiful city.  While so many cities used

their plazas, Arcata continues its original spot and fortunately for that

municipality it is in the center of the district which is surrounded by stores,

hotels, banks, official buildings and many other places of business.

     In the year 1901 Haig Patigan, then a struggling young sculptor of San

Francisco, was engaged by George Zehnder, pioneer of Arcata, to design and erect

a statue of William McKinley, who had been assassinated while president of the

United States.  Patigan carried out his contract and the statue was erected a

few years later in the center of the plaza where it has remained ever since.

     This statue has an interesting history.  When the earthquake and fir of

1906 visited San Francisco, the statue was a foundry in the city ready to be

cast.  Patigan feared his splendid work had been destroyed by the fire which was

enveloping the building in which it was awaiting the final touch.  He was happy

to find that the statue had been removed from the building by a group of men who

had gathered to try save burning buildings in the vicinity.  It was a short time

later that the statue was finished and brought to Arcata.  On July 4, 1906, the

monument to the martyred president was dedicated and presented to the city of

Arcata by the Zehnder family.

     The McKinley monument in Arcata was the first real work of Haig Patigan,

but since the finishing of his work that has been admired by so many people,

Sculptor Patigan has accomplished much.  He had received fifteen thousand

dollars for the Arcata monument and with this he opened offices in San Francisco

and in the years that have intervened has become one of the leading sculptor in

the United States.  His excellent work can be seen in the city hall of San

Francisco, and in the Civic Center where statues of General and President

Abraham Lincoln are attractive features due to his marked ability.  In the White

House in Washington,  D.C., is a bust of Herbert Hoover, former president, which

was chiseled by Patigan.  There are many other works which he conceived and

completed and which occupy prominent places in many cities of the nation.  Thus

a great man got his start in life and began to climb the ladder of fame by the

building of the McKinley statue which has graced the Arcata plaza since July 4,

1906, a matter of 41 years.







From:  The Redwood Record (Garberville)

April, 1966



                                			The World's Largest Madrone Tree

by John Haller

(Note:  Haller, who specialized in the natural history of trees and plants,

spent a year in Humbolt County as a teacher of Spanish at South Fork School. 

While he was here, he wrote this analytical history of the famous Madrone Tree

at Ettersburg.)

     What is the world's largest Christmas tree? A redwood? A Douglas fir?

Possibly.  But my nomination for the title is the lone madrone, found in a sheep

pasture in northern California.

     Why madrone? Because red and green are Christmas colors, and the madron is

red and green.  With it's green leaves--red bark, red twigs, red petioles bright

red fruits hanging down like bunches of grapes, it is more Christmasy than snow.

     Why this particular tree? Because it is the largest in the world--the

largest so far discovered, and the largest likely to be discovered.

     Why are all big things found in California? This is a tough question to

answer, but somehow it just works out that way.  The redwoods are here, the big

trees of Yosemite, the Douglas firs, the sugar pines, the red gums, maybe even

the Klamath big foot.  Anyway, as it turns out, the world's largest madrone is

here as well.

     The champion stands quietly near the town of Ettersburg.  Clearly visible

from the town, the madrone stands on a little mound, about half a mile away.  It

doesn't look like much as you approach it, accustomed as you are to face the

sheer 250 foot walls of redwoods that line the Highway 101; indeed, you are

likely to put your trip down as a wild-goose chase.  Resignedly, you climb the

fence and walk closer; then, suddenly, the hugeness of the thing strikes you,

and your disappointment turns to disbelief and then you awe.

     The madrone (Arbutus menziesii), as most of us know it, is a small tree,

15, 20, 25 feet tall with a slender trunk 8 to 10 inches thick, in rare cases 18

inches or so.  Those who have tramped throw the canyons of Northern California

know that these measurements are sometimes doubled or tripled, that when crowded

by conifers the madrone grows strait upward to 60 or 70 feet or taller and

attains a trunk diameter of 3 feet or more.

     But even this does not prepare us for the Ettersburg giant.  Measured

breast high, the trunk is 32 feet in circumference--10 feet 5 inches diameter!

One huge limb, jutting of horizontally five feet above the ground, is itself

larger by far than the average tree of the species.  Four feet farther up the

primary crotch occurs, whence three mighty limbs spread outward to produce, by

repeated ramifications, the great symmetrical crown.  The tree is not tall,

measuring barely 60 or 65 feet, but ye gods, what massiveness of trunk and

limbs!

     Few pines and firs ever produce a 10-foot trunk, and even among the

redwoods this dimension is very respectable indeed.  The famous Founder's Tree

at South Fork,  California, often mentioned as the world's tallest tree, has a

trunk diameter of only 12 feet. 

          Steve Smith and Mike Etter, 10 and 11 respectively, who guided me to

the tree, climbed nimbly up into the first great crotch, then into the second,

from which elevation (about 15 feet) they looked down on me pityingly.

     "Bet you wish you can climb up here," said Mike indulgently

     My climb up the tree helped me to a truer perspective.  The limbs were even

larger than I had believed, and their massiveness was equaled by the spread of

the crown.  From branch to tip the tree measures 120 feet along it's   

north-south axis and 116 feet along it's west-east axis. That means it is twice

as broad as it is tall.  Such proportion contrast interestingly with those of

the coast redwood, which may be 200 or 300 feet tall and yet have a spread of

only 25 or 35 feet.

     In it's overall shape, its ratio of spread to height, its

close-to-the-ground crouching habit, the angle which the limbs make with trunk,

and the artistic crookedness of twigs and branches, the madrone at least the

Ettersburg champion strongly resembles the southern live oak (Quercus

Virginian).

     It further resembles it in its spreading and       deep-penetrating root

system, an attribute which enables both species to thrive on dry rocky

hillsides.

     No one knows the age of the huge madrone, and let us pray that no one will

be tempted to cut it down and count its rings.  (after all, there are increment

borers) Mr. Lee French, on whose property the tree stands, has done nothing to

molest it: on the other hand neither had he taken steps to protect it and

vandals have already contrived to carve their initials into its base.  Local

legends make the tree a meeting place for Indian Chiefs, whence it acquired the

title "Council Madrone."  Certainly the tree has seen a lot of history; not to

long ago a schoolhouse stood under it's spreading crown.  An estimate of 400 to

500 years seems more likely to err on the conservative side than otherwise.

Madrones are slow growers, and 500 years are not so very many, as California

dendrochronology goes.

     Because the wood burns with a hot fire and leaves virtually no ash, it is

much prized as a chimney fuel.  Early Californians used Madrone charcoal in the

making of gunpowder.  The wood is also used in the manufacture of artifacts,

particularly in Mexico, cracking and shrinking little and resisting insect

attack well.  Spanish settlers are said to have used it for making stirrups

     Indians and early settlers ate the small, scarlet berries, both fresh and

cooked, and dried.  They also made infusion from root, bark, and leaves which

they made as a remedy for colds; tea from bark as a cure for stomach-ache, and

lotions from leaves and bark for applying to sores and cuts.

     The peculiar beauty of the madrone is due not only to it's shape and

symmetry but also to it's color.  Leaves are green, of course, but veins are

red, petioles are red, and twigs are reddish.  outer bark is reddish-brown,

peeling off in small strips and scales.  The exposed underbark is white or

creamish, and the overall combination of creamish, red, and green is very

pleasing indeed.  

     What is to be the fate of the Ettersburg madrone? It is not tall enough to

in danger of toppling; moreover, its nearly perfect symmetry gives it balance,

and its        far-ranging roots provide firm anchorage.  One may safely predict

it will never be wind-thrown. Danger from fire is similarly remote.  One large

conifer growing near it was cut down and disposed of some years ago; three small

locusts are growing to the west of it, but constitute no danger. The field in

which it stands is covered with short grass and regularly grazed. Thus neither

fire nor competition present a menace.

     When I examined it (in October), the giant was in remarkably good health.

The foliage was abundant and of good color, and the major limbs were sound. In a

few places toward the top some breakage had occurred and cavities were

developing; for $250 (or less) the damage could be repaired. How wonderful if

the funds could be raised. Like the Oak, the Madrone is peculiarly subject to

heartwood decay, and the miracle is not that some decay is beginning, but that

the tree has so long survived without the breakage that inevitably produces it.

     Apart from heartwood decay the Madrone is remarkably resistant to disease

and insect attack, as the champion amply demonstrates. Even the tent caterpillar

often found on Madrones (although seldom causing serious trouble), was nowhere

in evidence. 

     Standing on a mound and distant from any stream the tree is saved from any

possibility of flooding. At the same time it is apparently immune to drought,

and unless California weather changes drastically in the future, can expect no

danger on that score.

     If not by wind, fire, flood, drought, disease, or insects, by what, then,

is the giant to be destroyed? As usual, man poses the greatest threat. Although

no immediate danger is foreseen, who can tell what will happen if the property

changes hands? Should not a single tree of this magnitude--apparently the

largest of its kind--be protected and cared for by the government? Could it not

be incorporated into the state park system? Or the national park system? Or

could not some historical society take it under its wing?  To leave so a

remarkable a specimen to the vicissitudes of chance is to tempt the law of

probabilities.







Founders And The Founding 

Of Eureka



"At that time" the little Schooner Eclipse which had formerly been a pilot boat

at Baltimore, Maryland, was anchored at Trinity. It was commanded by Captain

Charles Tomson. On board was a party led by James T.Ryan.

As soon as the word that the Laura Virginia had entered the bay reached the

Eclipse party , they weighed anchor and put into the bay. The first anchored

opposite of Bucksport, May 6, 1850. Everyone was laying out townesites and

during the next few days the party prospected for a suitable location. On the

8th of May, the party in charge of Ryan returned to the vessel and reported in

the favor of the spot now occupied by Eureka.



	It was probably chosen because of a small patch of ground, extending from F

street to B street and from waterfront to what is now Third street, and came

down to the waters edge. the marsh began just west of B street. A small creek

emptied into the bay near the foot of what now is F street, giving a convenient

water supply.

	On May 9, 1850, they took up anchor and sailed up the bay to the selected site

and immediately began staking out their lots and blocks.

	Later, Ryan made a survey  of the townsite which he named Eureka: This was used

as the official survey until about 1859. When John S. Murray made the survey

that is now official, all transfers of real estate were described according to

the Ryan survey.

			-	-	-	

Members of the Ryan party:

James Talbot Ryan      W.D. McHowerd      Mr. Greyson

Albert Guild           Joel Lighter       Sam Brannan

Henry Weatherbee       James R. Duff      Geo H. Tilley

James Johnson          August D. Northrup Wm.H.Dunham

Jacob Phaff            George S. Young    Isaac Lindsey

Abraham W.Stratton     Andrew B.Brown     W.L.Blanchard

Edward Williams        John W.D. Davis    John T.Young

Mr. Wardell            Mr. Srammon

George Spence          Wm. Westgate

Hugh McGrath           A. Eisewald



																						

Early Humbolt County Government



The Court of Sessions:

    Prior to the advent of a supervisial system of government, the affairs of

Humbolt County were managed by the Court of Sessions from the organization of

the county in 1853 until 1855, when it passed the hands of the Board of

Supervisors .

	The County Judge as Chief Justice, and two Justices of the Peace, ask Associate

justices, composed the Court of Sessions .



	Annually, the County Judge convened the justices of the peace of the county,

who selected from their own number two who should act as associate justices of

the Court of sessions for the ensuing year . In case of a vacancy or failure to

attend, the County Judge appointed another justice, and as this frequently

occurred, some years a half dozen men occupied the position . 

	

	The duties of the Court of Sessions at first were chiefly to administer the

affairs of the county . In 1851 a radical change was made in the power of this

court by conferring upon it the criminal jurisdiction previously exercised by

the District Court . It had the power to inquire into all criminal offenses by

means of a Grand Jury, and try all indictments found by that body, save those

for murder, manslaughter and arson, which were certified to the district court .

In 1855 the legislature created Broads of Supervisors in the various counties,

leaving to the court of sessions only its criminal jurisdiction . In 1863 the

court was abolished and its powers conferred upon the county  court .

					 - - -

The District Court 

	The District Court was the highest local tribunal of original jurisdiction,

embracing chancery, civil and criminal causes . As at first created, it had

original cognizance of all cases in equality, and its civil jurisdiction

embraced all causes where the amount in question exceeded $200, causes involing

the title to real property or the validity of any tax, and issues of act joined

in the Probate Court . It had power to inquire into criminal offenses by means

of a Grand Jury, and to try indictments , found by that body .

	

  	In 1851, the Legislative took from this court its criminal jurisdiction and

conferred it upon the Court of Sessions, leaving it the power hearing appeal

from that court on criminal matters, and the power to try all indictments of

murder , manslaughter, arson and any cases in which the members of the Court of

Sessions were personally interested . 



					- - -

First Meeting, Humbolt Supervisors:

   	At their first meeting on May 6, 1855, the new Board of Supervisors elected

John Quick, chairman . Other members were Jonathan Clark, second district; J.S.

Bowles, third district . Quick came from the first district .



HUMBOLT COUNTY'S FIRST BOARD OF SUPERVISORS AND THEIR DISTRICTS

		Under the law of 1855, organizing boards of supervisors, Humboldt County Judge

J.E.Wyman gave notice that Humboldt was divided into three districts,

corresponding with the number of supervisors to be elected, which were: 

                            Eel River   )

                            Pacific     )

                            Table Bluff )  First District



                            Bucksport   )

                            Eureka      )  Second District

                             

                            Union       )

                            South Fork  )  Third District

 

     The election was called to be held on the second Monday of April 1855. The

places of the polls, the inspector and judges were:      

                     FIRST DISTRICT

       

      Eel River: Polls at the house.

                 Inspector--S.L.Shaw  B.F.Jamison

                 Judges   --L.W.Fish

                            T.D.Felt



      Pacific  : Polls at the house of S.L.Shaw.

                 Inspector--S.L.Shaw

                 Judges   --Uri Willams

                            Nehemiah Patrick



      Table Bluff: Polls at Table Bluff House.

                 Inspector--J.Van Aernam

                 Judges   --J.D.Meyers

                            John Jones



                    SECOND DISTRICT



      Bucksport: Polls at school.

                 Inspector--Dr.Jonathan Clark 

                 Judges   --J.C.murdock

                          --A.Caldwell



      Eureka   : Polls at Brett's Hotel.

                 Inspector--J.H.Eddy

                 Judges   --John Chamberlian

                          --G.H.Knight



                     THIRD DISTRICT

      Union    : Polls at Packsher Hotel.

                 Inspector--S.H.Daniels

                 Judges   --J.H.Cowan

                          --H.W.McNay   



												

     South Fork  : Polls at Ferry House.

                                  Inspector--N.Hill

                                  Judges   --J.A.Drake

                                          --Mr.McCann





        At this election the following were selected for the office of

Humboldt's first Board of Supervisors:





                     FIRST DISTRICT--John Quick

                     

                     SECOND DISTRICT--Jonathan Clark



                     THIRD DISTRICT--J.S.Bowles



	   The broad held its first meeting on May 6, 1855. John Quick was elected the

first Chairman of the Board.

                  





How They Began-

CALIFORNIA COUNTIES



      If a Californian of the 1850's felt it was too far from his mine or ranch

to the county seat, he knew of a remedy.  He went to his neighbors, talked the

matter over and presently a petition was on it's way to the State Legislature

asking that a new county be formed, with a new county seat 30 or 40 miles nearer

the homes of the petitioners.  There was a good chance the Legislature would do

exactly what they asked, and the Governor would sign the bill.

      California's original 27 counties created in 1850 by her first Legislature

were: San Diego, Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Montery,

Branciforte, San Francisco, Santa Clara, Contra Costa, Marin, Sonoma, Solano,

Yola, Napa, Mendocino, Sacramento, El Dorado, Sutter, Yuba, Butte, Colusi,

Shasta, Trinity, Calaveras, San Joaquin, Tuolumne, and Mariposa.  Branciforte

was promptly changed to Santa Cruz, and Yola was changed to Yolo.  Colusi did

not become Colusa until several years later.

      Several of these counties, notably San Diego and Mariposa, were very

large.  To a man from Rhode Island these immense divisions of land must have

looked more like states than counties. As little towns and farming communities

developed in the back country it was natural that new divisions would have to be

made.

      Mariposa has been called the greatest "Mother of Counties."  From her

original boundaries were cut Merced, Madera, Fresno, Kings, Tulare, Kern, and

much of Mono and Inyo, parts of San Benito, Los Angelas and San Bernardino. 

From old San Diego came Imperial and most of Riverside and San Bernardino.

      Desire for a convenient local government was not the only reason for

making new counties in California.  Sometimes divisions resulted from feuds

between communities.  Sometimes there were natural geographical divisions not

known to the makers of the original 27 counties.  And often enough there were

local politicians who liked the idea of a new county government which they

themselves could control.

      The making and remaking of counties went on for 57 years.  Some were

created, then wholly lost in subdivision-ghost counties.  Others were given a

legal right to exist and yet never "came to life.  "The hopeful county makers of

California even tried to carve counties out of land which was not in the state

at all.

      Once there was a Klamath County, spanning northern California from the

Pacific to Mount Shasta, embracing all of the Klamath River valley and many of

the Trinity River's head streams.   That was in 1851. The very next year Klamath

lost her Shasta and Scott Valley to Siskiyou County. Three years later Trinity

County claimed the natural boundary of the Trinity watershed.  In 1874, Klamath

County ceased to exist.  Her hills and towns and depts were inherited by

Siskiyou and Humboldt Counties.

      There was one California county which never existed except in men's minds

and that Pautah County.  For several years, seven to be exact bass-voiced miners

clamored for Pautah County.  The State Legislature was agreeable, even naming

Carsonville as the county seat.  But, unfortunately, the land of Pautah County

was outside the state, and the hard-hearted Congress of the United States

refused to cede it.

	Buena Vista and Coso Counties should have existed, but did not.  Buena Vista,

first projected as Kern, was created in 1855.  A dozen years passed.  Newspapers

and official records mentioned "Buena Vista County," but the county did not meet

certain legal conditions, and now, instead of Buena Vista, we have Kern County. 

Coso County, created in 1864, failed to organize.  Two years later Coso was

recreated as Inyo County.  Mono County lost its county sea, Aurora in 1864, when

it was shown that Aurora lay not in California, but in the new state of Nevada.

	            --------------







AN ACT TO DECLARE CRESCENT CITY  THE COUNTY SEAT OF KLAMATH               



From Statues of California 1854, Page 173, Chapter LIV

   "An act to declare Crescent City the County Seat of Klamath County, and to

legalize the official acts of the County Judge and other county officers in

changing the Seat of Justice of said County from Trinidad to Crescent

City.--(Passed: January 28, 1854)

   "The People of the state of California, represented in Senate and Assembly,

do enact as follows:

  "Sec.1. Crescent City is hereby declared the county seat of Klamath County.

  "Sec.2 The official acts of the County Judge and other county officials in

removing the Seat of Justice of said County from Trinidad to Crescent City are

here-by legalized, and all acts done by judicial and other officers at said

Crescent City shall be as valid as if said removal had been authorized by law. 





 

THE AMERICAN INDIAN

Digested from: THE INDIAN HISTORIAN

Aug- Sept. 1965  

      California history cannot be complete nor acceptable without dealing with

the role of the Indian.  This not a matter involving the Indian as a minority. 

It is to be remembered that he was once a majority in our State.  The past

history and culture of the Indian has not changed nor should it be

reinterpreted, as a result of his present status as a minority in the

population.  Further, it is often true that a minority is capable of exerting

more influence and contributing more creatively than a majority...In every phase

of the teaching of American and Californian history as such, the role of the

Indian shall be truthfully described and correctly interpreted.								

     So far as the Indian is concerned, the naturally favorable conditions, the

great quantities of animal and vegetable life, and the adaptability  and the

inventiveness of the native Indian in his country, made life pleasing.  He

worked hard.  Everyone worked hard.  But they lived well and decently.  They

live generally in a peaceful relationship with each other.  These conditions

brought a tremendous concentration of aboriginal population in the area, for

that period in history.  When foreigners began to intrude, the Indian population

declined rapidly.

		A great competitive struggle took place on this continent and particularly in

California between the intruding non-Indian peoples whose needs were generally

met by the taking of the land from the Indians, and the taking of the gold from

their lands.   The native culture was gradually forced to give way due to

superior numbers, new developments of warfare unknown to them, and a ruthless

program of elimination of the Indian population by the American invaders.  The

Spaniards and Mexicans, including the missionaries, needed the Indians as

laborers.  But by the time the Americans came, Indian labor was no longer

required to any great and pressing extent.  And so the Indians suffered.  The

invaders prospered.  The Indians gave.  The invaders took, and did not pay,

either in goods, cash, or in kind.  When, finally, the Indians were able to see

the need to stand and fight, it was too late.  The invaders had the land, and

the resources, and the numbers.



	A system of control over the Indian Tribes was instituted early in the history

of the United States, and later in California and other western states, which

still exists today.  This involves the control over Indian affairs by a

governmental agency known as the Bureau of Indian Affairs.  In the past, this

governmental agency had the power to tell the Indians everything they must do,

so far as their personal liberties and their property management was concerned. 

Today, this governmental control is still changing.  Soon the Indians hope to be

just as free as all other citizens, with the same rights and privileges in

personal liberty, property management over their tribal lands, and the

democratic rights to justice and protection in the courts.



	A general body of misinformation, and misconceptions derived there-from, exists

even today concerning the Indian culture and way of life.  We here enumerated

only some of the most flagrant of such misconceptions, in the hope that the very

act of enumeration may serve to point to the current state of misinformation

existing even now.



	MISCONCEPTIONS OF INDIAN LIFE



THE INDIANS were lazy, especially in the State of California.

THE INDIANS were irreligious and had no belief in God.

THE INDIANS made war whenever they had the chance.  They did not with to, nor

could they live in peace.

THE INDIANS were immoral.

THE INDIANS were dirty and unsanitary.

THE INDIANS sold their children and their wives.

THE INDIANS were diseased and the white people had to stay away from them for

fear of catching their diseases.

THE INDIANS did not have their own land, they went form one place to another as

the fancy would strike them, hence we cannot say they owned any part of this

State.  They did not take care of their land and therefore the white people had

to take it away from them so as to take proper care of it.

THE INDIANS had a primitive and limited economy.  They did not even trade with

one another.  Therefore, the great advantages of civilization which were brought

to the Indians, included goods and service, which came with trade.

THE INDIANS don't care about their history, so the scientists who do care, come

and get the history.  One of these ways of getting the history, is from mounds,

which contain priceless relics and historical materials.

THE INDIAN man did not do any work.  He just went around and when he wanted to,

he went on hunting trips  and fishing trips.  The women did all the work and the

men told them what to do  The women had to obey the men, who sat around and went

on fishing trips whenever they liked.

THE INDIANS today receive government checks regularly.  They don't work and many

of them are very rich.  The government is supporting the Indian people.



	Crudely stated as they are, these misconceptions actually exist.  Some are

half-truths.  Most are untrue.  There are abundant answers to all these and

other misconceptions, from many sources.  School textbooks should present, in a

positive way, refutations to these untruths.  Only one such idea seems of

interest at this time, as reflecting a reason for Indian attitudes towards a

certain type of necessary research.  The mounds, which archaeologists examine

with such care were actually Indian garbage dumps.  It is with dislike that the

Indians see these dumps being scrutinized and analyzed.  Such a reaction merits

understanding, not condemnation.



	Despite the cruelty and injustice practiced against them, the Indian Tribes

still remain, though in a decimated condition, in fewer groups, and a great part

of their ancient customs gone.  But the old ones have made known their history

to their descendants.  Much is still known of the ancient ways, traditions,

customs and life.











Tribesmen Lived Strictly by Morel Codes

From the Humboldt Times, Feb. 1954

TRIBESMEN LIVE STRICTLY BY MORAL CODES



                     ANCIENT TRADITION GUIDED WAY OF THE HUPA INDIANS...

   	Now, the visit to Hupa decends from the cliffs above Tish Tanginto a typical

looking northwest rural valley. There are mills lying along the Trinity. He sees

a scattering of small homes along the road, fields squared off with  fences,

garden, stock, fruit trees, cafes, grocery stores and gasoline pumps.

   	"Isn't this an Indian Reservation?" the visitor asks. "where can we see some

Indians?"

     The answer comes quickly. Right here. We're the Indians?"

   	The Hoopa people in three generations have made an almost complete

adjustment to present day American culture--so much of an adjustment, in fact,

legends and positive aspects of Hupa tribal life.

   	People in general do not know how well organized and controlled Hupa village

life was before the white men came.

	  It was complex and in it's own way as regulated and "civilized" as our

present culture. Environment determined it's forms. It was bounded mainly by the

valley: its core the river, its transportation dugout canoe, and its staples,

salmon, acorns and venison, its religious myths concerned with the creation of

the valley and the origin and contribution of fish, eels, deer, and acorns.

 	For the Hupa, day started with the first light. Women crawled out of the round

door holes in living houses and went down to the Trinity to bathe before

starting the daily routine of a corn preparation and basket making. Men and boys

roused in the sweat house and bathed in turn. Winter and summer, this plunge

began the day; the Hupa were clean people.

 	Breakfast was not their first business. Unlike us, they only ate two meals a

day, one at mid mourning, the other at late afternoon. These were mainly acorn

meat on a maple leaf in flat open-work plates.  They  used spoons carved from

elk-horn or manzanita.  The women ate afterward, using mussel shells instead  of

spoons.

										

Conservative Eater

	The well-bread Hupa Indian ate slowly and sparingly.  He knew that a man that

eats too much in good times is hungrier in bad.  He also knew that Deer, in

spirit, watched to see that his body was eaten with respect, his last rib left

unconsumed, and his grease washed properly from fingers in finger baskets and

not in the river were he might drown.  If these rules were carefully observed

Deer would come to that house again.

	Men ate first, the women serving them soup in tightly woven baskets and meat on

a maple leaf in flat open-work plates.  They used spoons carved from elk-horn or

manzaneta.  The women ate afterward using mussel shells instead of spoons.

	The effort of existence never ended.  Women worked constantly to make baskets

and clothing, prepare acorns, gather wood and raise children.  Men made fish

nets, tools, weapons and ceremonial equipment, hunted, fished and split cedar

planks for houses.  They traded  with Yuroks down  the river beyond Weitchepec

for canoes.

		October and November were great acorn harvest months. Acorns were their bread,

and women gathered them in huge conical baskets.  It must have taken hundreds of

pounds of tan oak acorns to feed a family twice a day throughout the year.  Many

villages had camps near Trinity Summit where they went every autumn to get their

acorn supply.  At the  end of the harvest they had an annual acorn feast-like

the

white man's Thanksgiving. 

  	Acorns were dried and stored in the shell in storage baskets and cracked when

needed.  The meats looked like big fat peanuts.  They were ground into meal with

a stone pestle and the meal leached to remove the bitter tannic acid by pouring

water through it repeatedly over a period from six to twenty-four hours.  Women

leached their meal in shallow holes scooped in the sand by the river, and they

picked the meal up so skillfully when they were through that there was not a

grain of sand  left on it.

  	The meal was then ready for the woman  to make soup.  She put the damp mass

in a soup basket and poured water over it.  Then, with two sticks she pulled

several wickedly hot river rocks from the fire and plopped them into the basket.

 They hissed and sizzled, and the soup began to boil and thicken as she stirred

it with her long paddle to keep the rocks from burning the basket.  When the

bubbling stopped and the steam cleared away, the soup was ready to eat.  It was

thick as corn meal mush, nutritious, and watery tasting to the white man's

palate.  Eaten with salty salmon, eel or dried seaweed it was delicious and was

the mainstay of their diet.

			     

Women Made Baskets             

	Basket making took even more of a woman's time than soup making, and was as

never  ending since  all food and burden containers storage baskets, caps, and

baby carriers were woven.  Skeleton of Hupa baskets were hazel.  They gathered

the new shoots in early spring when they were just budding or lightly feathered

with leaves.  Only long, straight, limber shoots with no branches could be used

for baskets, and consequently in the old days the Hupa used to burn the

hillsides every year to make the hazel bushes send out new shoots, as well as to

clear out other underbrush and make sticks and acorns easier to gather.  It

takes two years after burning for hazel shoots to be at their best.  Long,

fairly thick shoots were needed for baby carriers and other big baskets; medium

ones for soup baskets, and short, very slender ones for caps, dippers and

tobacco baskets.

  	Around and between the hazel ribs most baskets were woven in with roots so

that the hazel does not show.  For soup baskets they used cedar or spruce roots,

which they baked for hours in a covered pit and shredded.  Pattern was overlaid,

which is why it shows only on the outside of Hupa baskets.  Yurok and Karok

technique was similar but patterns varied.

    White overlay was made with bear grass, black with  maidenhair or five

fingered fern stems, henna with fibers from the stalk of the giant fern dyed

with alder bark, and yeller from porcupine quills dyed with moss.  Porcupine was

used mostly in caps and dance baskets and was highly prized.  

    Since most of the materials were gathered at different times of the year,

women were always busy piling up the staggering amounts necessary for the yearly

basket output.



Food an Urgent Matter

      Men were busy.  Mot pressing daily occupation was fishing and hunting for

the family meat.  These were not the pure sports they are for the white man,

today.  For one thing, tools and weapons had to be made by hand.  Most fish they

caught in nets, laboriously tied of twine made by twisting together fibers from

iris leaves.  Some of this string still exists, a really beautiful cord with the

sheen and color of natural linen.  Bows were lubricated with thin strips of yew

backed with sinew to give them strength and resilience and decorated with

pigment from various berries, mosses, etc.     

      They made arrows from mock orange, tipped with chipped flint heads.  These

must have represented quite a loss when not carefully used.

       Most exalted occupations of men were gathering sweat house wood and

making the elaborate regalia which represented the wealth of the Hupa. For these

they collected and variously treated woodpecker and humming bird scalps, eagle

feathers, deer skins, otter, fisher, mink and fox hides.  Their greatest fortune

was when they shot or snared an albino deer.  One authority, writing about forty

years ago, quoted a white deer skin as worth five hundred dollars, but to our

knowledge there has been no instance in late years of one changing hands: they

are virtually priceless.

       Men were also expected to spend a great deal of time concentrating on

dentalia, or money shells.  Deep, prolonged concentration on them, sometimes

producing visions, was thought to be conductive to their acquisition.  Probably

this was as practical a means as any since all the shells came originally from

the coast north of Washington and Lake Athabakain Canadaand trickled into Hupa

Valley at the end of a long chain of trade.



The River Villages

       The Hupa tribe is believed by anthropologists to be the southernmost

branch of the Athabaskan Indians and probably brought their first dentalia with

them when they migrated to the Trinity area.

       There are a number of villages along the river.  Takimilding was supposed

to be the oldest and was the religious center for the Hupa, especially the

down-river division.  A second large influential village was Matildin, whose

families were religious leaders for the up-river division of the Hupa.

      There was no Hupa chief, but instead there were rich men who were leaders

in dances and war making.

      Families consisted of the family in the broader sense: about three

generations to the living house. Women and girls slept in the living house, men

and boys in the sweathouse. Because of this strict separation of sleeping

quarters, a man and his wife seldom slept together, except in the summer when

they built temporary willow houses or camps closer to the river. Both the living

house and the sweat house and the sweat house were permanent buildings made with

wide split cedar planks. They looked much like small present day barns. On the

family could keep warm and dry by the fire in winter. 

      Since young adults were usually busy with the strenuous duties of

subsistence, much education of children fell to the older people. Grandmother

usually told moralizing stories to the children as she sat weaving baskets. And

as grandmother talked and wove, the little girls would pick up sticks she

rejected and start their first baskets, learning by imitation. 



Strict Moral Code  

       Family organization was paternal. Women came to their husband's houses

except in case of half marriages. Marriages were usually contracted by the

parents ince marriage involved an exchange of money and other valuables, and

father held the purse strings. only a virgin of good family was worth the

highest price. for that reason as well as because of strict moral code in Hupa

villages before the disruptive influence of the white man, a girl's honor was

scrupulously protected by the family.     

      Marriage was not strictly a matter of ownership, however. Women were not

regarded as slates. As early as 1828 when Jedediah strong Smith's party came

through Hoopa Valley its diarist noted that Hupa women held a high and respected

place in society compared to Indian women in other tribal groups.

      When woman married she usually brought with her a dowry quite comparable

to her marriage price. A good price might be a white deerskin on a canoe, along

with quite a bit of long, richly decorated dentalia and dance regalia. Women of

lesser family or status, commanded correspondingly lower prices.  

     Sometimes a man could not pay for his wife. This was called a half

marriage, and the man then came to live with the wife's family and was in effect

their servant.         

     Debt was the only cause of real slavery in Hupa: a man who got himself

deeply involved in debts he could not pay off might pay with his freedom.

											

The Stick Game

	Main sports of the Hupa were sticks games and the gambling game.  These were

still performed in the valley in connection with various ceremonies.  Stick

games are played on special occasions.  

	Stick games are unique.  In the old days there were dangerous and sometimes

gruesome.  There were three players to a team.  Goals were fixed                

                                                                                

                                                                                

                                                                                

                                                                              

fifty yards apart and marked by willow branches set upright in the ground. Each

player had a stick about the length of a golf cub, curved at one end like a

crowbar. These they used to propel a tousle made of two round sticks, about two

inches long, fastened together with a short thong.

     The object of the game was something like football or hockey. Each team

tries to get the tossle across the other's goal two times out of three or three

times out of five or whatever the set number.

     At the onset of the game, the opponents paired off, two in the midfield and

an opposing pair at each end of the field. The tossle was tossed to the two in

the center, who stood, arms locked, sticks being clenched in their teeth. they

struggle to get free of each other and flick the tossle toward their opposite

goals. The other pairs of opponents also begin to wrestle to hold each other or

to get free to race for the tossle. Often the game see-sawed back and forth from

one end of the field to the other. Then suddenly a swift man would elude a

strong opponent and streak down the field flinging their tossle in a quick arch

beyond the willow brush goal.

     Years ago a man might gouge out an eye or grate his back bloody with the

end of his stick, by rubbing it up and down his spine. He might grind sand into

his wounds or choke him with a stick held against his windpipe. Now there are

strict rules and three officials see to it that they are enforced. It is still

an exciting game to watch.                                                      

                                                                                

                                                                                

  		

	The gambling game was a kind of "which-hand" guessing game played with a bunch

of little sticks like pick-up-sticks. One stick was marked, and as the leader

divided the bunch in   two and hid them behind his back, the guesser had to tell

which hand held the marked stick. Spectators lined up on either side of the

blanket between the two players bet on the outcome. The results were not as

simple as pure guessing because the leader developed a bag of tricks to befuddle

the guess and the guessed learned the indications of the tricks as well as the

language of tips from the spectators on his side who might have a better

position of seeing what was going on. All this byplay was accommodated and

accentuated by the pulse of the drum and the singer's chant underlying howls and

laughter from losers and winners. There were not penny-pinching affairs.

     As the sun went down on the Hupa villages the last bowl of soup was already

eaten for the day. The hunters were in, full or empty-handed. The woman had

emptied the last conical basket of acorns into the great storage baskets around

the walls of the living houses. Their backs were tired. Unless there was to be a

brush dance that night, the dancing was over, the scarlet headdresses laid away.

Canoes were high on the beach. The Trinity River murmured in the background of

the village. It was warm in the houses. Men told stories by the fires before

retiring to the sweathouse. Children nodded.

     Outside a little sharped-nosed dog yapped at the moon. They might have any

little villages in the world.              







From:  LOGGING WITH OX TEAMS AN EPOCH IN INTENUITY

(Mendocino Historical Society, 1965)

                                                BULL TEAM LOGGING

    The first hauling of logs was done by oxen or bulls. They hauled the logs in

the early days of the woods to the mill, later from the woods to the landing or

dump. A bull team was generally composed of from six to eight yoke of oxen. a

yoke was two oxen joined by a wooden yoke.

    Oxen were generally Brindle Durham, Durham, or Durham with Ayrshire, or some

other breed, rarely if ever mixed with Jersey. They ranged in weight from

fourteen to eighteen hundred pounds. The bull team averaged about two miles per

hour both to and from the mill or landing.

   They were fed hay and a cheap bran mixture. On Sundays, if pastures were

available, they were put out to graze; otherwise they spent the time in the bull

pens.

   The vocabulary of Bull Team Logging is fast being lost to the world, so we

will attempt to define and explain some of the terms, before going into other

details.



LEADER

    The most important animals on the whole team were the leaders. They had to

place the team in the position for working. They had to respond to voice

commands of the bull punch.



WHEELER

    This was the last yoke of oxen next to the load. This expression was common

with both bull and horse teams. It was their duty to hold the logs or wagon

back.



GOAD

    A goad was a small pole, usually of oak, live oak, or laurel, about an inch

in diameter at the end, and half an inch at the small end. It was about six feet

long and in the  

smaller end it had a small nail driven into it, and filed to a point. It

extended about a quarter of an inch.  This was used to prick the animals tough

hide, particularly during the training, and on a well broken team, in case of an

emergency, to make the animals move in a hurry to save their lives from a

rolling log, or other possible disaster.  Of course, this depended on the

individual Bull Puncher.  Some were able to control their animals without the

goad, and some used the goad cruelly.



NEAR SIDE

  This was the right side of the team.



OFF SIDE

  This was the left side of the team.



SNUBBING POST

    A post to which a bull was pulled up short. The post was rounded and quite

heavy. A rope was placed on the bull and he was encouraged to circle the post

several times. As the rope was taken up the bull was securely "snubbed" and

could be handled in any way desired.



DROVER

  The Bull Punch or driver of the bull team, was the highest paid man in the

camp. He received equal pay with the foreman. A bull puncher had to know how to

handle the bulls. It was not what he said, it was how well he said it that made

the bulls go. 

                         

HAW

   When the Bull Punch yelled "Haw," he was ordering the team to turn left.



GEE

    "Gee" was the command for turning right.



LOAD

     A load depended entirely on the weight of the logs. This could range from

five to twenty-five logs. (There have been many stories of as many as 35 logs,

but this was not common.) The ease and the ability of the team had much to do

with the size of the load. The logs in the load were arranged according to size,

the largest, first.









BRIDLE

    The first logs were fastened with a bridle and if the logs were extremely

large the two subsequent logs also have bridles.  The lighter logs were fastened

with a single chain and a "dog" at each end. 

     The bridle consisted of two lengths of chain three or four feet long with a

ring connecting the two chains. Each chain has a "dog" at the end, which is

driven into the log.  The bridle kept the log directly behind the team,

prohibiting it from sheering to either side.  If the load was heavy the use of

more bridles assured that the entire load would have an even pull.



DOG

    This was a piece of iron with a ring in one end, and a bend, a little more

than a right angle, which was driven into the log. It was about five inches

long. The side that had the strain was flattened so that it could pull the log.

    In the front log, a bridle was used which consisted of a dog on each side of

the log connected by a chain, with a ring in the middle. The pulling line was

pulled into this ring. If the logs were large, as many as three bridles would be

used. The lighter logs could be coupled together with a single chain, with a

"dog" at each end. Generally on top, as every log should be put on it's "ride".



RIDE

    Every log has it's "ride". A "ride" is the side on which the log settles

itself, as it is pulled along. Even when the log is put in the mill pond, it

will still hold itself in the same position, that is, it will stay on it's

"ride".

    The man who made up the load had to be able to recognize the "ride" of every

log. Otherwise a load of logs would twist and turn, and probably uncouple the

chain and pull out the "dogs."



SUGLAR

    The suglar accompanied the load to the mill.  He rode the first log and

cropped the chain as needed. There was a peg on the log to hold the upper end of

the chain. He also helped string the chains on the logs and connected the

couplings. The chain that he handled was called the rough lock.  



ROUGH LOCK

  	The rough lock was a heavy piece of chain.  It generally had a trip link

which held the chain in a circle.  Rough lock was usually needed when the load

started a steep down hill pull.  Then it was dropped over the end of the first

log to hold the logs so they would not run over the bulls.  At the bottom of the

hill,  when it had accomplished its  purpose the link was tripped and the loose

end pulled from under the logs.  If it became fouled,  they used a shovel  to

dig it out.  ( Shovels were always stored at the steep down grade area  for this

purpose.)

  	Some rough locks had no trip  links and would have to be dug from under a

log.  In this case the pulling chain would be  unhooked from the bridle,  the

rough lock thrown back on top of the logs.  

  	If  this were the last steep  place the rough lock would be left,  to be

picked up on the return trip.  The pulling chain would be hooked back in the

bridle and the team continued on its trip.



SNIPER

 	In each logging camp there was a sniper.  He had a broad  double- bitted axe

called a sniping axe.  It was usually at least eight inches wide.  At the front

end of each  log  he would make a forty-five degree cut clear around the log. 

The purpose was to prevent it from catching the cross  kids and pulling them out

of their beds.  

	At times,  he  assisted the Barker's in removing limbs from trees.



SKID  ROADS

  	Skid roads were not put in for the entire length of the hall,  but used only

where needed.

  	Often at the head of a very steep gulch and the bench beyond the would have

"yarding" teams and they would pull the first log,  just to where it would not

go by itself.  Then they would bring up the next log,  and generally,  with the

third log,  they would bump the other two logs,  but not enough to start them

moving.  When the entire load was made up,  they would generally find a place

they could place the team at one side of the logs  and probably hook near the

middle of the load and start it,  just enough so that it would start down the

incline by itself,  and the hook would automatically come out.  When the load

got to the bottom there would be bunched together end to end,  and that would be

close to the skid road,  where they would have some skids reverse to the road, 

but parallel to the roads,  to get them up on the road.  The fact that they were

bunched made it easy to get them on the skid road as they would move one at a

time.  If the logs were "stretched,"  that is, the chain stretched each log

tight,  it was difficult to start the load down the skid road.

  	Skid roads were used only where need.  If the road was only to be used for a

few months,  then any kind of wood was used.   When the skid road was to be used

for long periods of time,  oak or madrone was frequently used.  Redwood suckers

hewed to the heart,  with all sap wood removed,  if kept well greased,  it

lasted for years.

  	On the skid roads the logs were laid three or four feet apart.



WATER BOYS                                 

		Water boys were generally Chinese.  They accompanied the load to the mill, 

throwing water a head of the skids to make the logs slide easier.  He carried a

long pole across his shoulders,  with a five gallon coal oil can attached to

each end.  The boy carried a dipper in each hand,  and alternately,  threw a

dipper of water on the skids.  On level land, toward the end of the road they

had to get all the water they could on the road, as level land was most

difficult to negotiate . 

  	Water barrels were located at convince spots so that he could refill his

"buckets". There were times when grease was used in all places of water, but

this was rare because grease was not as cheap as water . 

  	On return trip , the water boys went ahead and refill any bucket that needed

to be refilled . Many barrels had water piped from nearby creeks.



BROOM BOY  

	The broom boy swept dust, chips, rocks ,etc., from skid on the road.



JACK SCREW 

	  The earliest jack screw frames were made of wood, with an iron band around

the bottom and two sharp brads to stick into the log or bore onto the hard

ground . The bad was about an inch square and ran to a point . Mechanically, it

was the same as the improved jack screw with the same ratio of gears and safety

dog . 

	  The jack screw was one of the most valuable pieces of equipment in the

logging world . It varied in height, but usually was about two and a half feet

high. The bar and gear was made of tool steel, with a frame of heavy piping,

i.e., the improved jack screw.

  	It was much faster than the jack screw . The jack screw had a worn screw.  It

was very slow and almost impossible to use in logging. The screw was a piece of

heavy pipe with a base like an inverted saucer . A bar with cogs in it ran

through the pipes . At the upper end of the bar was a "dog" with a swivel on it.

The dog at the upper end of the bar was elevated and very sharp, so as pressure

was put on it would sink into the log. 

  	At right angles to the bar were gears which fit into the dogs of the bar. The

first gear was four plus the length of the handle; this went into the second

gear which was about six inches plus a handle with a man turning the handle this

ratio would . He equal to the lifting power of forty men . 

  	On the outside the gear was a notched dog, that could lock the jack so that

you could leave it with any amount of weight on it for an infinite time . 

  	Just above the handle was an important safety device.  This was a pin with

notches.  In case the logger accidentally let go of the handle, the pin fell

into the notch and prevented the pin from flying uncontrollably.  A flying

handle could cut a man in two, or severely injure him to say the least.    

  	Jack screws were used in all phases of logging.  When logs were unloaded at

the landing there would be two men, each with jack screws . When a log has to be

moved into a dump, a jack screw would be placed beside the log ,the log quickly

raised, and then the second man would place his jack screw and continue to

assist in moving the log. The two men working alternately would quickly move the

log any place that they wished the log to go. This was the general method for

using the jack screw . When the oxen was pulling a load and a log was fouled in

any way, a jack screw would be used by the sulgar, assisted by one or two water

slingers , if necessary.



GLUTS

  	These were made of seasoned live oaks, shaped like a wedge, slightly

higher in the middle, than at either end, about 18 to 30 inches in length. 

These were generally used by tie makers, but could be used in emergencies to

raise a log, if it were caught on a skid road.  





FITH CHAIN

	This chain had a hook on each end, which was hooked into the rein under the

center of the lead yoke and was then passed back and hooked into the ring of the

second yoke and so on for each yoke so that they worked as one team.



SWAMPER

	Built roads and cut brush to clear the way to get logs down to the skid road.



SNATH BLOCK

	This was an all steel frame with a  pulley and hook.  When a logger wanted to

use it, he bent the hook over and that uncoupled the side and he could throw his

line out in just a few seconds.  It was used in many ways.  If a log got off the

side of the road, and the logger had a Molly Hogan in his boat, he threw it over

a stump and attached his block to he Molly Hogan.  With a short piece of cable,

with an eye in one end and a hook in the other, the log could easily be pulled

back on the road.  These were also used on logging locomotives, to put the cars

back on the track, or to reload a log.



MOLLY HOGAN

	This was an endless piece of cable (about three-fourths or seven-eights of an

inch cable) that you could throw over any stump.  It was of no value in working

with trees, because you couldn't get it over a tree.



BULL WHEEL

	The Bull Wheel was used like a capstan, in early logging days.  It had iron

bottom.

	One place it was used was Mill Creek at Dixon Flat.  First the bulls pulled the

wheel around (later horses were used).  The wheel was bolted to a stump that had

been sawed off even with the ground--fastened or chained to another stump.  The

oxen (or later horses) had to step over the chain, also over the brace of

chains.  As the wheel turned, the log was pulled out of the gulch or off the

hill.  It was used where it was muddy or where they didn't want to make a skid

road for a small layout.  The bulls went around with the wheel winding the ropes

and pulling in logs.



BECKET

	A hook on the end of a line.



TOMMY MOORE

	This was a huge block weighing several hundred pounds.  It was fastened to

something substantial, like a stump.  The Donkey pulled the choker through the

Tommy Moore.  The Whistle Punk blew the whistle to stop the donkey engine.  When

the engine stopped, it created slack in the line, the choker was unhooked from

the pulling line and put on outside of the Tommy Moore and back on the pulling

line, leaving the back line in the block.  On the return, the back line, choker

and everything could go right through it.  These were generally used to maneuver

logs around obstacles.



THE BOAT

	The boat was a hollowed tree about twelve feet long, split through the center

and flattened on the round side.  Both ends were higher so the equipment could

not fall out either end.  It carried a variety of things, including many cold

shuts, or lap links, one or two steel blocks.  Three or more cant hooks or

peavies, three or four different lengths of Molly Hogans, which are strong

pieces of steel cable with both ends spliced together.  They were used to throw

over a stump to attack block quickly.  A couple of jack screws, several lengths

of steel chains with dogs attached, a brindle and a sharp, double bitted axe. 

This was necessary for often a wind blown snag would be across the track and the

team would have to stop to get the log out of the way.



BULL WHACKER

	A bull whacker differed from a bull puncher in that a whacker used a bull whip

while a puncher used a goad stick.  Bull whackers were more common to Humboldt

and Del Norte counties than they were to Mendocino County.



BULL WHIP

	This was a whip about six feet long, with a series of straps (at least three or

four) that would a snapping sound, when the whip was flicked.  The handle was

long and braided.









Humboldt County has heralded many important industrial inventions and

innovations. Some have taken place within the redwood country. One of the

important developments was the "donkey engine" which helped revolutionize the

harvest of the big trees. (LL)

													The Arrival of Steam Power in the Redwoods

	Humboldt County has heralded many important industrial inventions and

innovations.  Some have taken place within the redwood country.  One of the

important developments was the "donkey engine" which helped revolutionize the

harvest of big trees.



This is what the Humboldt Times reported on July 31, 1881:

      "STEAM POWER,  Its application to logging business: To those who are

familiar with the logging, or who have been accustomed all their lives to seeing

the unwieldy ox-team tugging at the great logs, the announcement that steam

power is to supersede this antiquated method will be received with no little

surprise and incredulity.

      " But improvement is the order of the day and there is no reason why the

ox-team should not make the way for the steam engine as the stage coach has for

the engine. 

     "George D. Gray of the Milford Land and Lumber Company has brought up from

San Francisco and set to work on the company's logging claims at Salmon Creek, a

steam logging engine that bids fair to change very considerably our system of

logging. The idea of such a contrivance was laughed at by practical men and when

the engine was set down among the crew at Salmon Creek, it was pronounced

utterly impracticable.

     "But the inventors had faith in the new machine, and put in motion last

week. It has performed its work to perfection from the first and is now a

regular hand in the Salmon Creek woods. The machine is designed to be used in

blocking out roads, hauling logs into the roads and coupling them together ready

for the ox-team to take away. It consists of an upright boiler and engine. The

crank shaft of the engine is geared into a 'gypsy head'. The whole set on heavy

wooden set on frame, twelve feet long by six feet wide.

     "The gypsy projects over one side of the frame. The weight of the whole

machine with water and fuel is about four tons and it has power to sufficiently

break a four and a half inch manila rope.

     " The operation of the machine is very simple. After running the rigging

the same as for an ox-team, a few turns of the line are thrown together over the

gypsy and the engine is started. Besides being more powerful than the ox-team,

the power can be used or halted instantly.

     "A log can be rolled up on its end and held there by the break (brake) to

be peeled or 'snipped' or for any other work that may be necessary. 

     "The machine is the invention of Messrs. Dolbeer and Carson."





Blue Lake, California

August 6, 1967

ALL ABO O O ARD...Facts Abouth the "Annie and Mary"



	Welcome aboard the Arcata & Mad River Railroad, the oldest continuously

operated line west of the Rocky Mountains.  We are not very large, but we play a

mighty important role in the beautiful Mad River Valley.  With only 7 1/2 miles

of mainline, we are not as long as many railroads, but we are just as wide.

	The "Annie and Mary" was founded in 1854 as the Union Wharf and Plank Walk

Company.  The line was built in order that the town of Union (now called Arcata)

could be served by deep water shipping.  To accomplish this, a mile-long wharf

was built from the shore to deep water.  The track was made of wooden rails,

over which a four-wheel car was drawn by an old white horse named Spanking Fury.

	In 1875 the road went modern when it put into service its first steam

locomotive, the Black Diamond, and laid strap iron atop the wooden rails.  It

also extended its line three quarters of a mile to the new Dolly Varden mill. 

The name Arcata & Mad River Railroad came into being in 1881.  A year later the

Korbel brothers founded the Humboldt Lumber Mill CO., which eventually owned the

A&MRR.

	The line converted to diesel in 1953 and in 1956 was acquired by Simpson Timber

Company along with the Northern Redwood Lumber Company at Korbel.

	Today "Annie and Mary" runs between Korbel and Korblex, where it interchanges

with the Northwestern Pacific Railroad.  We server 11 customers and will add a

12th within the month.  Each weekday morning we pick up loaded cars, haul them

to Korblex, where we pick up empties to be dropped off at each mill on the

return trip.  Within the next two months we will begin hauling general

commodities, bringing goods such as machinery, steel strapping and glue to

customers along our line.

	We employ 15 persons and in a normal year handle over 5,000 loaded freight

cars.  Last year we put into operation a new gang wagon for use in track

maintenance.  This novel vehicle runs on highways or rails and can carry our

entire section crew and all their equipment.

	Our train crew today includes the following men.  (The numbers following their

names indicate their years of service with "Annie and Mary").

		Engineer - Dean Mitchell, 24 years

		Fireman - Darrell Young, 7 years

		Conductor - John Costa, 21 years

		Brakeman - Henry Jacobson, 2 years

		Gang Wagon Operator - Marlin Fauerbach, 10 years

		Assistant Gang Wagon Operator - Doug Brauer, 19 years

		Regular Engineer, Archie Ambrosini, 28 years, is on vacation.



HAVE A NICE TRIP!!



				Sincerely,

				John Thompson

				General Superintendent







From PAUL BUNYAN NEWS (Ft. Bragg)

	November 24, 1952



		WHITE MAN'S CATTLE, RED MAN'S GAME

			--ISSUES IN MENDOCINO WAR



	As the white man's civilization rolled westward, the American Indian was pushed

further toward the setting sun until the Pacific Ocean ended further retreat. 

When the white men came into the state of California, either in covered wagon

across the plains, or around the Horn, the California Indian was herded onto

reservations.  One of these was the Mendocino reservation on which the Nome Cult

farm was located.

	At this time, about 1858, there were 10,000 Indians in the country, of which

only 3,200 consented to live as the white man directed.  The remainder tried to

continue life as it was before their conquerors came.  The settlers erected

fences and brought in cattle which caused the wild life to diminish, thus

working a hardship on the Indian.

	Mostly as a means of subsistence, the Indian began killing the settlers'

cattle.  In many instances they killed for revenge against the usurpers.  Each

time the settlers came upon a dead cow, they blamed the Indians for the deed and

would promptly raid an Indian rancheria, killing men, women and children,

indiscriminately.

	A private army of 40 men was organized under the command of Captain W.W. Jarboe

of Ukiah, to punish the Indians.  At this time there was a unit of the U.S. Army

--the 6th Infantry--composed of 23 men and commanded by Lt. Edward Dillon, a 25

year old soldier.  The unit was stationed in Round Valley.  The settlers

complained that the regular army protected the Indians and not the settlers.  A

bitter animosity existed between Dillon and the settlers.

	Open warfare broke out between the settlers and the Indians.  The redmen raided

the white's cattle and the whites killed any and ll Indians they suspected of

killing cattle.

	A special California house and senate committee was finally sent to Mendocino

in 1860 to investigate what they called the "Mendocino War."  The committee

under the chairmanship of J.B. Lamar, met in February 1860 at Storm's Ranch in

Round Valley to hear the settlers tell their story and to take depositions.

	William Frazier, a 38 year old farmer of Long Valley, told the committee he and

others raided an Indian village after hearing of cattle killing and that the

redmen had some fresh killed beef at their rancheria.

	"All the Indians fled when we came, but one," he said.  "We shot his head off."

	"Last December (1859) we organized a company of 40 men.  I was elected

Lieutenant.  Two days later I led an expedition across Eel River between Long

and Round Valleys and saw a fire of an Indian rancheria.  We waited until sun up

before attacking and killed 20 of them, including bucks, squaws and children and

took two women and one child prisoner.

	"A week later," he continued, "we found two wounded bucks and one old squaw,

all of whom we killed," and on the way home saw more Indians, Charles S.

Bournes, Round Valley rancher, continued the tale.  He said:  "The regular

troops here were just a nuisance and never accomplished any good; they protected

the Indians and not the settlers."

	William T. Scott of Scott Valley, told the committee he had never had any

trouble with the Indians.  He said that Jarboe's orders were to kill all Indians

seen.  "I went with Jarboe once and came across two bucks collecting acorns in

Eden Valley.  We killed one, but the other got away."  In the statement Scott

made, March 2, 1860 he said he had always treated the Indians kindly and never

had any cattle killed by them."

	An employee of the Nome Cult farm, Lawrence Battaile, 36, testified that S.P.

Storms and other settlers one day came out to the farm on the reservation on

suspicion that some of the reservation Indians had been killing cattle.

	The settlers, said Battaile, picked out 20 redmen, accused them of killing and

started shooting them.  Eight redmen were shot and five hung the rest managed to

escape.  Storms, 29, a rancher of Round Valley said over 500 Indians had been

killed in the county in the three and a half years preceding.

	When he was asked if many squaws were killed by the settlers, H.L. Hall, 25,

refused to answer the committee's question.  "I think one squaw died from a

bullet and all the squaws in one particular incident were killed before they

would not travel.  The infants were put out of their misery and one 10 year old

girl was killed for being stubborn," he said.

	"I consider it dangerous for any white man to travel along the roads in this

area," William Patterson, 31, of Ukiah Valley, said.  "I know of 10 or 15 white

men who have been killed by Indians."

	The special joint committee on the Mendocino War heard over 45 witnesses and

made their report.

	Jasper O'Farrell, W.B. Dickinson and W.B. Maxson of the committee made the

majority report of the hearing.  They said the white men were to blame for the

Indian troubles and that in four months of 1860, more Indians of Mendocino

county had been killed than in a century of Spanish and Mexican rule.

	In the minority report, J.B. Lamar said the Indians were a cowardly lot and

proposed a system of peonage.  The Indians, under this proposal would be

assigned as servants to the local ranchers and laws would be passed to prevent

any third party from interfering between "master and servant."

	It is not known what good came of this committee's investigation or what

solution finally developed, if any.  The committee's report and depositions of

the local settlers are believed to be the only record of the little known

Mendocino Indian War.

		--By Ed Bigelow.







From THE HUMBOLDT TIMES  March 10, 1887



                                        MAD RIVER'S BIG LOGS  				

					   

					   - - - 

			    



			Largest Plank in Chicago 



The following article is taken from the Chicago Herald of February 20, 1887:

  	"During the past few weeks a good many pedestrians have paused near the

corner of Monroe Street and Wabash Avenue to gaze at a large plank standing

against the wall of the Chicago Carpet Company's building. It was, indeed, a

plank worth looking at--a giant plank, 76 inches wide, 15 1/2 feet long, and 3

inches thick, as clear and pure and unblemished all the way through as a baby's

cheek. It was by long odds the largest plank that ever arrived in Chicago.  

  	"It came from the logging woods of John Vance, Mad River, Humboldt county,

California. That is a great country for big logs and big planks, and in sending

the huge timber, Mr. Vance was thoughtful enough to mail a photograph of his log

trains. It was from that Photograph that the Herald made the accompanying

illustration. In the train there are sixteen cars, one log to each car, and the

lumber which came from the logs measured up the enormous quantity of 88,568

feet. The big plank, was cut from one of those logs. 

   	"This plank, one of the finest specimens of redwood that ever left the

native mountains, where the California conifer, or sequoia sempervirens, as the

learned men call it, often grows 250 or even 280 feet high, with a diameter of

12 or 15 feet, was secured by W.F Blood of Oakland, Ca. on order from R.J. Smith

president of the Illinois Club. Mr. Smith has requested Mr. Blood to send him a

'good, wide redwood plank, from which we may have a table manufactured for the

club. Mr. Blood more than filled this order, and President Smith says he is well

satisfied with it, and 'tis surely wide enough.

   	"But the great plank is now no more. It has been cut up by the carpet

company, not for wood carpet, for a table for the Illinois club. Within a few

days, or a week or two at the most, the members of this club will have the

pleasure of sticking their weary legs under one of the largest tables on this

continent, if not one of the handsomest. This table is six feet, three inches

wide, and eight feet long (it could have been made much longer had greater

length been desired) and no less than a score of Illinoisians can get together

at once around the festive and solid board. The redness of the wood will fade a

trifle as time rolls on, but perhaps the Illinoisians will see that the

primitive color is occasionally renewed in the modern fashion. If they were in

the habit of doing such things at the Illinois Club (which they are not), the

members might be congratulated upon their possession of a table large enough to

shelter a full dozen of its devotees without any crowding and mingling of feet

and faces, which under similar, but less favorable circumstances, is often cause

of violence and turmoil. It is, however, safe to predict that the long-legged

Illinoisians will unanimously carry a vote of thanks to their president for his

forethought and zeal in providing them the solid top table in all Chicago."





From RFD, The Humboldt Times, September 15, 1964



			FINALE FOR HALFWAY HOUSE

				By Erma Korkan



	One of Trinidad's oldest--perhaps the oldest--houses was torn down Friday.  The

new owner of the property, formerly owned by the late Mr. and Mrs. Everett

Griffin, is Don Daniels.  Daniels, who grew up in Trinidad, is employed in

Walnut Creek.  He has future plans for use of the property for business

purposes.

	A trite and not unusual business-like piece of news.  However, there is much

more than appears on the surface in the history of the grown shabby little

house.  Some of Trinidad's gold-rush history is woven about the old building. 

Some of it emerges as the house was razed.

	Uncovering information and piecing it together provides an unusual story.  Mrs.

John Spinas, who was born in the old house in its later years, knows some of the

history.  She is the daughter of the pioneer Johnsons. Her grandfather was

Charles Thompson, who later married a Brooks girl.  He came to Trinidad in 1871.

	"The house was called 'Halfway House," then, " Mrs. Spinas says.

	"Halfway House" was built before the 1870's.  It has had a colorful and varied

career, unsavory in it earlier years, but able to reach respectability and to be

referred to as the "Honeymoon Cottage."  The romantic name, because young

couples rented it until they could afford to build a home for themselves.  It

was also referred to as "The Friendly House," for, as Mrs. Ray Graham of Arcata,

daughter of the Griffins, said, "It had such a friendly atmosphere."

	The exact date of its construction seems to be buried beneath a multitude of

history and "sins."  It is said the house was built before 1870 for two--er,

uh-- "girly girls," sometimes they were called "soiled doves."

	As the house was being torn down, it could be seen that the construction was of

rough hewn redwood lumber, vintage unknown.  It had been put together with

square nails, the kind made by local blacksmiths in the 1850's and 1860's.  The

redwood new rotting in many places, indicated its age.

	Beneath the many coasts of wallpaper was found the original interior finish,

plain whitewash on rough boards.  Later, when the first wallpaper was applied,

newspapers were used.  Apparently some of the papering was done about 1910.

	But, to go back to the history of old "Halfway House," there is the era  of

gold mining and mule trains which passed there.  "Halfway House," was situated,

opportunely, on the path to Orleans, and not too far from the Bald Hills trail. 

In its location it could be seen by the pioneers, going and coming from the

mines.  Trinidad proper, and, evidently it felt especially "proper," was built

nearer to the water on Trinidad Bay, on down the hill.

	Although there were seven saloons in Trinidad, then, "Halfway House," was

considered "out-of-bounds."  It was tolerated only if it was built about

half-way out of town and near the trails.

	History records that one of the original "girly-girl" house owners was drowned

in Trinidad Bay.  How her death came about is a mystery but it is said she may

have been the sister or at least a relative of the lady known as "Cock-Eyed

Florence," a resident of Trinidad in those years.  The busy "girly-girls" had

unusually colorful names, it seems.

	At any rate, the problem arose, we are told:  "The drowned girl had to be

buried, but the townspeople were shocked to think she might be laid t rest near

relatives or friends in the old Trinidad City cemetery.  It was requested that

she be buried there, but not too near the others."

	So, the "girly-girl" was put to rest near the cemetery entrance, perhaps where

the road now goes, according to available information.

	"Halfway House," now gone, carries with it much of the history of the growth of

Trinidad area.  Thousands of hard-living, hard-drinking men passed through the

town to the Gold Bluffs, where there were a series of "golden sand booms." 

Sailing vessels brought hundreds more who came to give the country a look, some

seeking opportunity.  An iron-bound jail was kept busy during that frenzied

period.

	There were hard-won struggles, citizens tired of unstable existence, built

school houses or churches, to give the community permanency.

	One of the churches was the attractive love Holy Trinity Catholic Church, built

in the 1870's, and now used for service.  This church, on the way to Trinidad

Bay is perhaps just slightly younger than was "Halfway House."







From CALIFORNIA HIGHWAYS AND PUBLIC WORKS Magazine

          January-February 1965 

                                - - - 

                        

                 Highway Site Yields Oldest Artifact Yet 

     A lump of cooking charcoal recently discovered in the buried remains of an

ancient    Indian village in eastern Mendocino Country has proven to be nearly

1,000 years older than any previously recorded history of man in northern

California, State Archeologist Francis A. Riddell has reported, according to a

repent report by the State Department of Parks and Recreation. 

	 	Riddell said radiocarbon tests just completed by Geochron Laboratories, Inc.,

of Cambridge, Massachusetts, have established the charcoals age at 5,320 years.

the earliest previously recorded traces of man in northern California were from

an Indian village site near Alamo, in Contra Costa Country, and were 4,400 years

old. 

   	The historic charcoal find was made by James Dotta of Redding, president  of

the Northern California Archeological Society, working under contract with the

State Division of Beaches and Parks. It was unearthed on the Porter Chaffee

ranch on Cold Creek, at the junction of State Highway 20 and Potter Valley Road,

between Ukiah and Upper Lake. 

     Dotta has been working at four Cold Creek area site that will soon be

destroyed by highway construction. The Division of Highways is paying for an

archeological search of the sites and the removal of their significant

artifacts. 

     To date the charcoal discovery site on Cold Creek has yielded 620

artifacts. They include dart points of flintlike chert, obsidian knife blades, a

variety of crude stone tools, stone mortars and pestles, and a number of manos

and fragments of stone metates used in grinding flour from grass seeds. 

     The January 1965 edition of the California Historian, publication of the

Conference of California Historical Societies, contains a message from Governor

Edmund G. Brown mentioning the Mendocino find and adding:

    "The state is doing this work because California cannot afford to lose its

history."	

                                





THE HUMBOLDT JONAH WHO WENT TO SEA IN A HOUSE

--Andrew Genzoli, in the Humboldt Times, Feb. 1, 1953 



      Did I ever tell you about Humboldt County's version of Jonah and that

famous--well, not a whale, but a house? Instead of being spewed upon the beach,

the occupant of the house rode it to safety.

      February of 1878 arrived on schedule, accompanied by a fierce storm which

lashed the country. Streams overflowed their banks and the countryside was

flooded.   There were numerous narrow escapes from destruction.

     The usually quit Eel River had broken its banks and was running through the

valley as it pleased, doing a large amount of damage. The force of the current

gnawed a new channel and banks around the little river-crossing community of the

mill-town began to crumble. Houses and other buildings were swept into the

river.  Standing, but damaged was flint, Peabody & Company's stave mill.

     Peter Anzler was a newcomer to Eel River Valley. He had chosen busy

Milltown as his abode--at least until he could locate himself permanently. He

had been there a short time when he found himself involved in a strange

experience.  

     The newcomer was living in a house near Dungan's Ferry. as other buildings

were sailing off in the rampaging current, he remained in his bed, catching up

on his sleep. When he awakened, he observe boards and stumps, logs and brush

were passing his home at a swift pace.

     He knew he wasn't asleep and dreaming when he detected the movement of the

house. The comfortable feeling he had enjoyed now left him. The house was

afloat, a hapless 'vessel' in the swift stream of the Eel River.

     On and on his frail craft went, and all hopes of escape gone. The house

darted past another farm house, then on past driftwood, over fences. In the

distance sullen roar of the Pacific Ocean. For Peter Anzler it had a terrifying

sound.

      He knew there was no escape. There was nothing to steer with, and if he

could it probably wouldn't have helped. There was no lifeboat for escape.  He

was at the complete mercy of the wind and waves.

     The roar of the surf was plainer. The house began to roll with motion of

the sea. peering out of a window, peter saw a sight that him through. Just

before him was the entrance to the ocean and the angry billows, pilling high

upon Eel River Bar. They were mountainous. Foamy crests scraped the grey

heavens. It was a sight enough to make stoutest heart weaken and strike the

bravest and strike the bravest mariner with trembling fear.

     In a few moments the house and Peter Anzler had reached the bar! The house

was tossed high into the air. Every moment seemed to be the last, as the house

would sink into the through of the stormy ocean--each time, deeper and deeper.

Another billow approached , threatening to rip the little house to pieces. The

house was determined to remain afloat, even if soaked to the beams with brine.

     Hours seemed like years as Peter Anzler contemplated the moments remaining

in his life. Strangely enough the current propelled the house northward,

up-coast, bouncing through the breakers at a fair rate of speed.

     Just as Peter had given up--he felt the house touch something solid. Then

as though an earthquake had struck, the house rocked from end to end. Looking

out of the window, he could see there was just a short wading distance between

him and the beach. 

     In a moment, he clambered through the window, kicked up the foam as he

headed for the beach.

     Old-timers who remembered, say Peter Anzler never looked back to see what

happened to the house. He could care less. But even so, his name is a part of

history of Humbolt County, his contribution bordering on the unusual.



How old is California man?

      While this remains a subject for further study a group of scientists now

agree that he must be at least 10,000 years old.

      In geological time that would establish his state residency around the

tail end of the glacial era.

      This knowledge has resulted from archaeological expeditions, excavations

of sites formerly inhabited by ancient native populations, and through a study

of past climatic conditions. 

      A detailed account of early California man has been published by the

University of California's Archaeological Survey.

     As to the origin of California there is strong evidence that he migrated to

the New World from northeastern Asia, reported Dr. F. Heizer, director of the

Archaeological

Survey and associate professor of anthropology on the Berkeley campus. 

      Dr. Heizer also reviewed the theory that the Pomo, Yuki, and Cahuilla

Indians of California may be survivors of this ancient migration.

      Techniques used by anthropologists in dating California cultures were

examined by Dr. George W. Brainerd, associate professor of anthropology on the

Los Angeles campus of the University of California.

      Dr. Brainerd also suggested that more information about California man may

be obtained through the studies of ancient population density and settlement in

relation to climate and physiographic factors.

      Dr. Ernest Antevs, noted Arizona geologist, supplied evidence for the

dating of California cultures through his study of climatic conditions for the

past 20,000 years.

     Following the ice age, Dr. Antevs reported, there was the "Anathermal" or

low temperature age beginning around 9,000 B.C. This lasted until approximately

7,000 B.C. when the "altithermal" or long drought period began, extending to

about 4,000 B.C. From this time to the present there has been a medium

temperature age called the "Medithermal."



From FERNDALE ENTERPRISE

Oct. 21,1898



MR. ASTOR'S BIG SLICE OF TREE

     Millionaire Wm. Waldorf Astor won his $25,000 wager made two years ago with

General Williams, an English gentleman, that he would seat 27 quests around a

table made of a section of a great California redwood tree.

     The dinner was partaken of, as stipulated by Mr. Astor, at Cliveden, his

beautiful country place on the Thames, Oct.15th, the twenty-six quests of high

English origin (including General Williams) being seated around the polished

slab of redwood which was not obscured by the presence of a spread.

     General Williams paid the wager, which would about cover the expense of

getting the gigantic slab to its destination.



	"The section of redwood tree referred to was obtained by Mr. Astor's agent in

New York, through an order placed with a firm in San Francisco, which in turn

placed the order with John Vance Mill & Lumber Company, in whose woods on

Lindsay Creek, the tree was cut which furnished a clear section 15 feet 6 inches

in diameter and three feet thick.  Special appliances had to be provided for

getting the huge piece of timber out of the woods and down to tide it to San

Francisco, arriving there May 1897.  From the steamer it was transferred

directly to the hold of the German ship Maria Hackfeld then loading in the

stream at San Francisco with Redwood Lumber from London, and on that vessel if

left San Francisco for its voyage around Cape Horn, May 18, and arrived in

London, October 15, 1897.







				'MY DEAR DAUGHTER'

				  A Father Writes History

								Trinidad Bay, Calif.

								January 26, 1853

To Caroline H. Leeds,

   My dear Daughter:



	I will give you some account of this place.  It is situated on the sea coast of

the great Pacific Ocean and is nearly on the northern border of California some

two hundred and fifty miles northwesterly of San Francisco.  Reference to your

Atlas will show my Lat and Long as follows:  Lat N. 41.06--Long W.124.05.



	It was near this place that I was cast away in the Schooner Fay some two years

ago when I was some four months among the Indians.  I met several of them here

glad to see me.  They recognized me immediately and want to know where I have

been so long and how long I am going to stay with them.  They also inquire abut

Enock Higbee, Mark Smith and others who were with me.  They wished to go on

board my vessel.  I took on board a number of men and women, and gave them a

grand feast on sea biscuit and molasses, their favorite dish since introduced by

the whites.  I set the table for them and waited upon them while feasting. 

After the repast I made them some presents of large red beads, red musling and

red tape clothing, etc., after which I sent them ashore in my small boat, full

of life and laughing loudly (laughing if you please).  They are great beggars

and never get through asking for more.  They daily become more and more

dependent upon the whites for sustenance.



	Their homes are very low and mean looking with no furniture whatever.  They

build their fire in the middle of the house on the ground and leave the smoke

find its way out through cracks and crevices.  They form a circle around the

fire where they sleep laying their heads upon each others hips for a pillow,

sometimes on the ground.  In the morning they enter a hot house or a sweat house

till they are nearly suffocated with heat from whence immerse themselves in cold

water.  I have some of them hired helping us with putting on board our cargo. 

Their wages is one dollar per day and a quantity of biscuit and molasses but

they will not work more than four or five hours a day.  They say they are sick. 

They are a curious race of mortals.  I could say more about them but deem this

quite sufficient for the present and therefore will close.



			Your father,

				MARK H. LEEDS.



San Francisco, Feb. 10th. I have just received the letter from your mother

before referred to, also a letter from my daughter Julia, being the first from

her.  I am quite astonished at her fine composition and beauty of style.

			M.H.L.







EARLY HISTORY OF EUREKA

Prepared by: The Greater Eureka Chamber of Commerce

                    2112 Broadway

                    Eureka, California

                    September, 1964



     The early history of Eureka is full of the romance and adventure of the

days of 49. Though never a great mining country, Humboldt owes much to the lure

of gold. Led on by tales of fabulous wealth in the Trinity River, bold men

chanced the unknown north, thereby hastening the development of the region.

     Early explorers such as Cabrillo, Drake, Bodega and Hecta had charted the

coastline of northern California, indicating such points as Trinidad Head and

Cape Mendocino, however, it was not until 1806 that an American Company headed

by Captain Jonathan Winship, in their search for the much hunted sea-otter

discovered Humboldt Bay and found its obscure entrance.  Later the "O Cain" was

sailed into the bay and hove anchor opposite where Eureka now stands.  Numerous

Indian villages on the shores of the bay inspired the party to give it the name,

"Indian Bay".

    The gold mines at the head of several streams flowing to the west from

trinity and Siskiyou Counties had attracted a large number of miners, who were

dependent upon the tedious and costly interior route for transporting their

supplies. In the hope of discovering coastwise communication with the mines by

some navigable stream, several expeditions were fitted out in San Francisco. 

One of these parties, under the command of Captain Douglass Ottinger of the

"Laura Virginia" discovered the entrance to the bay in 1850, and on the

following day, which was the ninth of April, 1850, two small boats were

launched, and a party consisting of H. H. Buhne, N. Duperu, H. W. Burson and E.

H. Howard, came over the bar. Humboldt Point was looked upon as the most central

location  and here it was decided to locate the city. The name "Humboldt City"

was given after the great naturalist and explorer, Baron Von Humboldt. The same

year the city of Eureka was founded on Humboldt Bay, about three miles from the

entrance of the bay. 

    Eureka flourished steadily from the time of its establishment until 1854

when it experienced a setback in lumbering, which was the chief industry. This

resulted in hard times and depleted the population. However, after the county

seat moved to Eureka in 1856 business began to revive. Eureka was incorporated

April 18, 1856, re-incorporated February 19, 1874.  

      Eureka was accessible to the outside world by an overland stage route to

San Francisco, the schedule time over this route being three days in summer and

four days in winter, and by two steamship lines.

     Many preferred the overland route to that of the sea, as the entrance to

the bay was a dangerous one, and disasters befell many a ship in " crossing the

bar."  Mail service was conducted both north and south from Eureka by means by

the pony express, the stage being utilized where the roads permitted.

     During the winter of 1852-53 a military post known as Fort Humboldt was

established for protection of the residents from Indians on Humboldt Heights, a

high bluff about a quarter mile back from the bay near Bucksport.  The site was

excellent, and the fort consisted of about a dozen buildings, three of them 

being used as barracks.  Colonel Buchanen was in charge of the post.  Owing to

the mild climate it was unnecessary to build expensive buildings, and as a

result by the year 1907 the elements had almost completely demolished the few

buildings that remained.  The fort was almost entirely obliterated by 1911, but

has been partially restored on the original site.

     Captain Ulysses S. Grant reported for duty October, 1853, and the post thus

became the scene of the early military services of a man who later became a

famous general and still later the President of the United States.  The period

of Grant's service at Fort Humboldt was terminated the following April.

     Today the visitor to Eureka will find a thriving city of 29,000 people. 

The tedious overland route to San Francisco has become part of the famous

all-year Redwood Highway, " The Highway of the Giants ", and the trip that

formerly took three to four days is now but a six hour drive.  The entrance to

Humboldt Bay improved by extending projecting jetties out to sea, thus

eliminating the rough bar, and the channels have been deepened so that ships

from all over the world make the bay port call.

     Eureka is admirably situated in a region abounding in natural resources and

scenic beauty.







From:  Humboldt Bay Region  1850-1875

         By Owen C. Coy (California State Historical Association,   Los Angeles,

 California)  1929

         By Gloria Collins



     BEGINNINGS OF AN EDUCATIONAL SYSTEM,  1850-1860.  One of the surest

indications of the social advance of any region is the attention given to the

education of its children.  Fortunately,  in California the men who framed the

first constitution recognized this and made generous provision for the public

school system.  In like manner the local authorities of the Humboldt region came

to see  the importance of this work,  and the beginnings of an  educational

system were instituted soon after the first settlers located in the region.

     The first  of the public schools was organized at the union during the year

1852.  The following year Humboldt county was formed,  and the supervision of

school affairs was placed in the hands of the assessor,  who also acted as a

superintendent of schools,  D. D. Williams being the first one elected to fill

this combined office.  During that year there were reported three a schools in

the county with an enrollment of thirty-three and an average attendance of

twenty-five.  The Eureka school district was formed which included the whole

Eureka township,  and school was maintained there under George W. Gildey.  In

1854 quite a considerable sum was expended for school buildings and teachers'

salaries,  and during this year the number of children in the schools more than

doubled that of the previous year.  At Union the public school was maintained

nine months,  at Eureka and Bucksport three months each.

     In 1855 the school affairs of the county were placed under the direction of

the county superintendent of schools,  A. J. Heustis being the first man to hold

this position.  The census for the year showed 186 children of school age within

the county:  Union having 79,  Eureka 45,  and Bucksport 62.  Of these 72 were

enrolled in school.  During the year,  in response to the demand of the settlers

south of the bay that their children be given school advantages,  the boundaries

of the Bucksport district were greatly extended by an order of the board of

supervisors,  which declared that "the townships of Bucksport,  Table Bluff, 

Pacific and Eel River be and hereby constitute one school district.  An

examination of the map shows this to have comprised the entire county with the

exception of the Union and Eureka districts,  An area of no less than 1500

square miles,  nor than forty-five miles in extent east and west and over forty

north and south.

      As Humboldt region became more thickly settled during succeeding years, 

The school system developed accordingly.  There were five schools reported in

1856 and eight in 1859,  the increase being due to the formation of new

districts by subdividing the large Bucksport district,  giving new schools at

Eel River,  Hydesville,  Pacific,  Mattole and Table Bluff.    

     During the period following 1860 little need be said regarding the

development of the public school system except to note the increase in the

enrollment and the number of school districts within the county.  In 1860 there

were 328 children enrolled in the public schools of the county; by 18865 this

had increased to 569 ; and by 1875 to 2048.  In similar manner the number of

school districts also increased, there being twelve in 1865, nineteen in 1870,

thirty-one in 1874 and forty in 1875.  Four of those include under 1875 were

located in the territory acquired during that year by annexing a part of Klamath

County.

     During these years the supervision of the public schools of the county had

passed through the hands of several capable men.  Heustis was followed in 1858

by E.H. Howard, a gratitude of the University of the City of New York, who did

commendable work in the work in the organization of new school districts.  In

1860 he was succeeded by H. H. Severn, who in turn was followed two years later

by W. L. Jones, 1862-1869, and J. B. Brown, 1869-1873.  All these men rendered

efficient service in organizing and extending  the educational system of the

county.

    PRIVATE SCHOOLS AND SEMINARIES, 1850-1875.  While the public schools were

being thus organized numerous private institution were also maintained.  Union

was the favorite town at first, but later Eureka also claimed her share of these

institutions.  In January, 1855, a French school is recorded as located at

Union; in May of the following year a "select school" was opened by J. F.

Landsdale, and another in August by Rev. E. J. Vail, a Methodist minister. 

Early in 1858 a Frenchman named opened a school in Union which bore the

dignified title, "Humbolt Collegiate Institute," and offered courses in the

"American, Latin, French, and Spanish Languages."  This was soon afterward taken

over by A Benedict, who also organized a primary school.  During this period F.

Bret Harte was a resident of Union, and in addition to his work on the Northern

California is reported to have taught in one of these schools.  Besides these

school, which were all located at Union, there were a numerous of  private

schools in Eureka.  One of these was opened during the year 1854; another to

supplement the public schools in 1860, and still others, limited to young

ladies, were opened by Miss Farrington in 1861 and Mrs. W. H. Burton in 1864.

     There had been much agitation for a seminary of learning located somewhere

around Humboldt Bay, but the efforts to establish one had not met with

unqualified success.  As early as 1855 the people of the Methodist denomination

petitioned their annual conference urging that a seminary be located there.  The

local paper followed with editorials setting forth the  advantages of the

locality and declaring, among other things, Union was the "most suitable place

for a seminary or higher school of any point north of Benecia."  Not

withstanding this early agitation no recorded action toward the establishment of

such an institution was taken for nearly a decade, when Rev. J. W. Hines, the

presiding elder of the Humboldt District of the Methodist Episcopal Church,

named fourteen to act as trustees of the Humbolt Academy. Land was secured, a

suitable building erected during the year, and on May 16,1886, the first session

opened. But the attendance did not justify the expense of operation, and so

after running for a period of two years the academy was closed for lack of

support. Mrs. W. H. Burton soon afterward leased the building for a boarding and

day school, and later it was purchased by Roman Catholics, who used it as a

convent.

     After the sale of the Academy building Mrs. Burton's seminary was removed

to a position near the Episcopal Church, where it continued for some time, until

superseded    

by the Young Ladies Seminary under the direction of Mrs. John A. Watson, and

this in turn by the Humbolt Bay Protestant Seminary. This latter was under

control of a board of seven trustees, incorporated May 23, 1872, with a capital

stock of $12,000. As in the case of the earlier institutions this seminary also

met with the grave difficulties on account of lack of support, with the result

that in the fall of 1875 it was announced that at the end of the session it

would be closed indefinitely. This notice served to arouse the friends of the

school to a renewal of interest, however, and with the opening of the new year

it again resumed its work. During the year 1871 the Roman Catholics established

an academy for young ladies in Eureka and a school for boys near Rohnerville,

the latter being known as Saint Joseph's College.   







From THE HUMBOLDT TIMES, April 4, 1892



			NEW BUSINESS LOCATIONS



			Third Street is Coming to the Front



	The building on Third Street between E and F is completed, and is now occupied

by the Western Union Telegraph Company's office and the Nerve Publishing

Company.  It was erected by the Rick's Estate, expressly for the present

occupants, and of course the interior arrangements meet all requirements.  The

structure is of wood, one story in height, with a frontage of 42 feet and a

depth of 50 feet.  The front is handsomely ornamented, and has three plate glass

windows, which with the plate glass doors, occupy almost the full width of the

building for its entire height.



	The telegraph office occupies one-third of the building for its full depth, and

is divided into three compartments.  In front is the space for those having

business with the office and for whom a convenient wall desk is provided.  This

space is separated from the operator's department by a high counter, while a

partition and door separates the operating boom from the battery and storage

room in the rear.  All of these three compartments are roomy and well lighted.



	The balance of the building is used by the Nerve Publishing Company for offices

and composing room, and in its arrangement for light and convenience cannot be

excelled.  The front portion is divided into a business office and an editorial

room, the office into which the street odor opens, being larger of the two. 

Doors open from the office into the composing room and the editorial room, while

the last named room is also in communication with the composing room by a

doorway through the main partition.



	The rear portion, forming a large square apartment and provided with shelving

and lockers in one corner for stock, is the composing room.  The rear of this

room, with the exception of a space in the centre skylights are placed near the

front partition making this, probably, the best lighted room in the city.



	The company moved in its presses and material Monday and are now established

there.  Business has commenced and Manager Loveland's genial showing everything

is satisfactory.  The Nerve is to be complimented on its handsome new quarters.



	With the completion of this building Third street from E to F has assumed a

business like appearance.  The Ricks' Estate property extending from the corner

of F street on the south side to the Pythian Castle, at the corner of E street,

includes some of the handsomest business structures in the city.  With the

exception of the new building just mentioned all are being rented for offices

and apartment rooms and the ground floors for stores.





SAGA OF THE ETHEL ZANE

From Redwood Country,  Oct. 30,  1968

     Names like Bendixsen,  Matthews,  Cutten,  Cousins are among those

remembered in Humboldt Bay's shipbuilding life.

     The names of ships they built are more apt to be recalled than the builder.

 For instance,  there is the four-masted sailing schooner Ethel Zane,  often a

subject for writers of the sea.

     Jim Gibbs in West Coast Windjammers in Story and Pictures (Superior)  gives

his version of the Ethel Zane.  She was built in Eureka in 1891 by Peter

Matthews,  287 tons.  She was abandoned northeast of Guam in July 1918.]

     "A typical example of the rugged hardships endured by those who sailed

before the mast occurred in the summer of 1918,"  Gibbs writes.  "The

four-masted schooner Ethel Zane had departed San Francisco on June 3.  She

carried a small crew of eight and was in command of an aging  whitebearded

skipper,  Captain Charles Backus,  who had spent his entire life at sea.  The

schooner was old and had  been laid up in San Francisco Bay.

     "The urgent wartime need for ships had demanded most anything that would

float and the Ethel Zane was no exception.  She was hastily refitted,  and a

crew of sailing men recruited.  The overhaul of the vessel was by no means

complete and her operators had her loaded with lumber and general cargo and out

to sea in great haste.

     "Everything seemed to go well at first.  The skipper and the mate,  Charles

W. Nelson,  another experienced sailing man,  were highly respected by those

before the mast.  Good sailing weather was experienced on the trans-pacific

crossing,  that is until the wooden  four-master was struck with all the fury

that a South Pacific typhoon can generate.  That was on July 18.

     "Within an hour,  pounded by mountainous seas and full kick of the wind, 

the schooner's masts cracked like jackstraws,  and the deck was a welter of

tangled rigging.  The seams opened under the almost merciless onslaught and the

bilge was soon full of water.

     "The pumps became virtually useless,  unable to handle the overwhelming

flow into the craft.  The schooner settled lower and lower into the convulsive

seas.  Massive walls of water swept the decks.

     "The men hung on to anything strong enough to keep them from being washed

overboard.  The schooner settled even more until she was at the storms whole

mercy.  The howling elements was so raucous that words were carried away.  In

desperation the men attempted to lower away a small boat,  but before they could

man it,  it was swamped and badly damaged.

     "The Zane was now so low in the water that she kept afloat only by her

cargo of lumber.

     "Minutes turned into agonizing hours...The dejected skipper,  his       

clothing half ripped from his body, his silver hair caked with salt and his

beard laying tight against this chest was a pitiful sight.  He was at an age

when he should have been in a comfortably rocking chair spinning yarns to his

grandchildren. The first mate was quiet and grim; the second mate Walberg had

broken under the strain and was delirious, screaming and laughing; the four ABS

and the cook, almost used up physically, no longer winced when their bodies were

struck by the cascading seas sweeping the deck.

     "Only one among the crew appeared endowed with superior strength......His

name was Johann Erickson, who had shipped aboard as a donkeyman. Strong and

ruggedly built, he was among the youngest members of the crew. Filled with

courage and determination he clung, as did the others, but seemed to absorb his

punishment. In those minutes of desperation Erickson remembered that in the

pocket of his brine-soaked pants was a water proof metal match container which

held a dozen or so matches. Nearby, inside the cabin entrance was a fire ax and

draped over the back of the second mate was a blanket. The items became very

important to a seemingly hopeless situation:"

     Erickson`s eyes scanned the horizon for possible help as their vessel

wallowed. "The others had long ago given up all hope. He too was about to falter

when came that long remembered Sunday night. Fighting to stave off

unconsciousness, he peered once more into  the inky fury.

		"...He squinted and but surely he saw the faint glimmer of a green light,

rising and falling.  With his remaining strength he loosed his bonds, climbing

back to the deck, struggling to the cabin entrance...his hands finally fell on

the fire axe.  Groping his way in the dark he waded across the water-covered

deck, shakily raised the axe and brought it down atop the cask, splitting it

open.  He peeled the blanket from the prostrate mate and soaked it in kerosene.

	"Returning to his post on the broken mast, he tied the blanket down and then

with his numbed hands began the tortuous task of trying to set fire to the

blanket against the incessant wind.  The matches, one after another were snuffed

out.  Finally one caught hold and the blanket erupted into a great orange ball. 

Ericksen pushed it as high as his endurance would allow in the hope those behind

the green light might see the signal of distress.

	"The blaze soon subsided and the gaunt souls were again in the dark...the

Norwegian peeled off his shirt for another signal attempt.  Repeating the dame

process the shirt was soon consumed.

	"The green light was seen occasionally, but it faded away and the grim

survivors feared their signal had gone unsighted.  When about to abandon their

last glimmer of hope they witnessed a blue flare streaking through the black sky

to the south..."

	"Once again they worked to get a rag to burn but broke down with sobs of defeat

when their last match went out.

	"The distant vessel had observed the burning material, circled the area

throughout the night.  She was the full rigged ship Arapahoe loaded with case

oil, bound for Manila from San Francisco.  By dawn the next day the tall ship

stood off the battered hulk of the Ethel Zane...Captain Hans Wilhelmsen ordered

a boat over the side to go to the rescue."

	In a daring maneuver, the Zane's crew was rescued.  They were so far spent that

they did not realize what had happened.  They all recovered from their ordeal.

	Jim Gibbs, who is editor of the Marine Digest, Seattle maritime trade weekly,

as well as a noted maritime author, says of the men aboard the Humboldt

Bay-built schooner:  "It was indeed a providential combination of incidents that

saved the men of the Ethel Zane."

	And, we can never forget the Norwegian seaman, with the foresight of carrying a

few matches, and willing to give of his bravery to aid others in a desperate

moment.



					--Andrew Genzoli





Humboldt Bay Jetties:

(Page 1 is missing from the original.  JF)

at a cost of $96,000 and was really preliminary to the project adopted in 1882

for deepening of the water over the Bar with a low-tide stone jetty to extend

seaward from the South Spit for a distance of six thousand feet, at an estimated

cost of $600,000.  Although appropriations were made in 1884, 1886 and 1888,

aggregating over $300,000, the engineers did not let the contract for initial

jetty work until 1888.



	"In 1890 it was found that North Spit could not be expected to offer a proper

resistance to tidal discharges when the jetty from the South Spit should be

extended.  An additional plan of building two high-tide jetties, one from each

spit was recommended by a board of United States Engineers at an estimated

$2,000,000.  This was adopted and another contract let, which was completed in

1891.



	"Up to this time (1896) the South Jetty trestle has been carried out 3,699 feet

to Bent 231 and a dyke of same construction as the jetty, had been built on the

North Spit, 1,480 feet in length to Bent 92.  This dyke was parallel with the

Bay and located on the Bay shore of the spit.  There had been used in these

works about 28,000 cubic yards of brush mattresses and 100,000 long tons of

stone at a cost of about $300,000.



	"In 1892, through the efforts of Congressman T.J. Geary, and as a measure of

economy, a provision was interested in the River and Harbor Act, placing further

work on the Humboldt jetties under what is known as the 'continuous contract

system.'  This provision authorized a further aggregate expenditures of

$1,740,115 to continue and complete the work.



	"The contact was Dec. 16, 1892 to John C. Bull Jr. of Arcata, at prices which

insured a saving to the government, compared with the cost of the previous work.

 The engineering office in charge thought the price bid by Mr. Bull were 12

percent too low and would lead to his failure.



	"Work was begun under this contract, April 14, 1893, and is still (1896) in

progress, with a prospect of completion in 1898."

	

	There is more to this story, but space says give up and do a couple of other

things.  So, we'll be back with another Redwood Country without our Humboldt Bay

story.



				--Andrew Genzoli





REDWOOD LUMBER IN EUROPE 1885

From RFD, The Humboldt Times, July 21, 1964



	Trucks loaded with lumber--bearing signs indicating destination Germany--moving

along Eureka's Fourth Street to the Waterfront, returns us to another day, when

Redwood was a rather new and unusual ingredient in Europe.

	The Daily Times-Telephone, March 1885, reports transactions in the buying and

selling of redwood considerably different from anything done in the country

where the big tree was native.

	"A commercial firm in Liverpool, Farnsworth & Jardine, reports the sale of a

cargo of redwood in that city at $51.66 per 1000 feet.  They have a different

way of measuring lumber there from the system prevailing in this country," the

Times-Telephone explained.

	"Here, it is counted by the 1000 feet, board measure.  There, they measure by

the cubic foot.  This cargo sold at two shillings and 6 pence per cubic foot,

which accounts for the odd cents in the sale of cargo, which would be unusual in

the quotation of lumber, here.  This Liverpool firm asserts that redwood is

highly appreciated by people who have used it in England, and is of the opinion

that it will become more popular as its use grows in public.

	"At the price above mentioned, it would seem that shipments from this coast

could be made to pay.  The freight to Liverpool from San Francisco is about $17

per 1000 feet.  At this rte, of course, there is not much margin for profit when

lumber is worth from $23 to $25 in San Francisco.  To the freight must be added

primage, insurance commission, etc., which runs the lumber up to about $50 per

1000 feet, laid down in England.  But freight is too high.  How is it little

more, on an average, than a ton of wheat, should be charged four times as much

for as the latter, is not easy to conjecture.

	"Hundreds of English ships are lying idle, waiting for wheat charters, that are

ready to fill up with that article at almost any price.  Lumber is a cargo they

know nothing about, and do not seem anxious to learn.  But the time will come

when freights will go down and lumber shipments to England and European ports

will become a leading feature of the carrying trade of this coast.

	"The amount of lumber shipped in 1884 to England and Scotland was probably not

less than ten millions.  Of this, the Hooper Brothers, formerly of Trinidad,

shipped six millions.  Of the balance, the California Redwood Company shipped a

part, and many of the wheat ships carried small lots to assist in replacing

their cargo.  Our lumber sooner or later, must reach European markets and then

we shall hear the last of over-production in our home markets."



--Eighty years later, times have changed:  Europe knows the story of redwood

quite well.



(From The Humboldt Historian)



THE BEACH ROAD

By Mrs. Iola S. Young



	In early days the main road from Eel River Valley to Bear River and Capetown

followed the ocean beach from Centerville to Oil Creek.  Although the Wild Cat

road was completed in 1884, the beach road was in general use as late as 1903. 

For one who can remember traveling this stretch of road, the trip is recalled as

an exciting adventure.



	Arriving at Centerville, a stop was always made at the Moranda watering trough,

which was then set in a niche carved in the hillside, to give the horses a

drink.  Turning to the west in front of the Moranda home, we traversed what had

once been main street of the little town of Centerville.  A few weathered

buildings were standing as late as 1900.  One of these with a high front showed

that is had once been a place of business.  A valued town lot was still enclosed

by a picket fence.



	Leaving the erstwhile busy thoroughfare, we headed straight over the sand hills

and down to the ocean.  This was a hard pull for the horses as the narrow wagon

wheels sank into the loose, dry sand.  Once the wet sand at the edge of the surf

was reached, travel was smoother, but when the first wave washed up and broke

into foam around our old spring wagon, the startled horses reared and plunged

and a firm hand was needed on the reins.



	However, after going a short distance, the flowing and ebbing surf ceased to

excite the team and we moved steadily along.  When the swirling water surrounded

the wagon completely, we seemed to be going in any direction but forward, and it

was almost like being carried out to sea. 



	In general there were steep cliffs along the shore, broken at intervals by

creeks flowing down through their gulches.  Fleener Creek, the first of these,

was a favorite place for school and Fourth of July picnics, as the creek had

usually formed a lagoon of warm water which was fine for swimming.  Guthrie

Creek was another favored picnic spot, but not as easily reached as Fleener

Creek.



	Arriving at Oil Creek, the road crossed the creek and here left the beach to

follow a grade up the ridge on the south.  The mouth of the creek was at times a

dangerous place, as occasionally, heavy storms washed away the sand and large

rocks were left exposed.  Then it was necessary to go much farther out into the

water to get around these rocks.



	A story was told of an early-day stage driver who lost his life here when

stage, horses, driver and all were carried out to sea.  Other stories were told

of narrow escapes with quicksand, and of an itinerant merchant traveling along

the beach who was engulfed by a sudden tidal wave.





THE BEACH ROAD, p. 2---

	After climbing the ridge above Oil Creek, the road crossed the upper part of

Fly Blow Gulch and went on to the old cooper shop where keys were made for

shipping butter from held in the cooper shop.  The former Jennie Capwell (now

Mrs. Caylor of Modesto) recalls that she and her brother walked from Hanzel

Dell, their home on upper Oil Creek, over the ridges to attend this school. 

Looking across from the site of the old Capwell home, it looked like a long walk

for two small children.



	Other pupils in the school were the younger Flint children, Frank, Phila, and

Alice, whose home was in Fly Blow Gulch.  Also Dagmar Rasmussen and her sister

from Guthrie way were in the group.  Miss Bertha Roscoe was remembered as the

teacher.  This was prior to 1883 when Guthrie School was established.



	Leaving the cooper shop, the road continued on, keeping to the south of Mazeppa

Ranch, and joined the present Capetown Road, where it can still be seen although

now closed off by a gate.



	Historically, we find that a family stage was at one time operated between

Eureka and Petrolia, using this beach route.  The stage left Eureka at 1 PM

going as far as the town of Centerville that night.  The rest of the trip was

made the next day.



	At this time boats had been docking in Centerville Slough after crossing Eel

River bar, since the early fifties.  Out on the flat may still be seen the trace

of a section of straight channel where the wharf must have been located.  Gazing

along the course of Centerville Slough, it is difficult to believe that any

vessel capable of ocean travel could have made its way up that channel.



	A large livery stable and a general store were operated at Centerville and the

hotel stood where the Moranda home now stands. Some of the windows in this large

home are said to be from the old hostelry.



	A. Berding, who came to Centerville in 1856 and established a mercantile

business, was the town's first and only postmaster.  In 1866, Mr. Berding moved

to Ferndale.

	

	The Ferndale Enterprise tells of several accidents that happened when the

stages traveled along the beach.  On December 6, 1878, the Mattole stage was

wrecked and the driver managed to save himself and the horses but the mail and

freight were washed out to sea and lost.  This was the second such accident in

less than three weeks time.  Luckily there were no passengers aboard either

time.



	In March of the next year, the stage was upset as it traveled the beach road

below Centerville.  This time no damage



was done excepting that the tongue was broken from the stage.  The passengers

sustained no injury.  However, they were thoroughly drenched with salt water and

sand.  These intrepid travelers were listed as Miss Parker, Mrs. A.P. Marble,

Mrs. G.A. Frost and Miss Sarah Fox.



	Travel along the beach road was blocked about 1903 when several hundred acres

from Woodland Echo Ranch slid down on the beach and into the ocean.  As the

ground settled, sheep and cattle were driven across at times and some travel

resumed, but it was dangerous to drive around the slide.



	Although the distance covered was scarcely more than four miles, the beach road

was a unique phase of early day travel.









(Contributed by Miss LaVerne Larson)



AN EMIGRANT SLIPS

INTO ARCATA

Experiences of a Swedish

Immigrant as Told By

ROBERT JOHANSON



	I came to America in March, 1922, I had been in New York in 1920, but then came

back to stay.  It wasn't really planned, but when the seaman on night watch came

into the gallery for a cup of coffee, I asked him what he would do if someone

tried to jump ship.

	"I would help him down the gangplank and wish him well," he said.

	I went down to my cabin and packed all my belongings in a sack and a small

valise.  And when all was quiet and still, I asked him if he would help me.  He

helped me down to the wharf and wished me a happy journey.

	It was after ten, and it was dark and chilly.  I thought of turning back.  The

boat lay at the end of a long pier built on pilings, this long bridge to land

intended only for trains and trolleys.

	One could walk it if one were careful and stepped from one tie to the next. 

They were placed about one step apart.  The boat's officers had taken the

trolley so I could only try to stroll the crossties.

	I had my sack and valise and was nearly halfway when I could see the train

coming.  I climbed down on the side of three of the piles that held the wharf

up.

	The train shook the piles so terribly that I lost my valise, and in the

darkness I could see it floating away.  As soon as the train passed, I climbed

back up on the pier again and continued on my journey.

	I now had just my seabag and the going was lighter.  I did not stop in Arcata

but continued on toward Eureka about 16 miles away.  When automobiles

approached, I hid by the side of the road, but only two or three showed up.

	It was nearly two when I arrived in the city, and only one bar was still open. 

I went in from the back, and that was good luck because there at the bar sat the

boat's officers.  They were waiting for a taxi, and left almost immediately.  I

entered the back room and there was a lad a little younger than myself.

	He understood what I was up to and said I could sleep in the room.  In it was a

large iron stove, and it was so warm that I went to sleep right away.

	When I awoke, it was light and the lad (his name was Tollefsen) was gone.  I

walked over to an employment agency and they gave me a not and said I was to go

to a lumber camp in Blue Lake.

	I had only one dollar and twenty cents and it cost fifty cents to get to

Arcata, where I was to take another bus to Blue Lake.

	When I arrived in Arcata, I went into the Royal Cafe and ordered berry pie and

coffee.  I was terribly hungry but I had only twenty cents to spend because it

cost another fifty cents for the bus trip to Blue Lake.

	While I was in the cafe, a man came in and sat down on the chair next to mine. 

He asked me where I was going.  When I told him I had a job in a lumber camp, he

told me that was much too hard a job for me.  If I would wait for his return, he

would get me a job on the highway.  He was going to San Francisco for a few days

but when he came back he would take me with him.  The man who owned the cafe,

Mr. Cole, had been listening, too, and when I showed them that I had only 50

cents, the man gave me two dollars, and Mr. Cole said that I could wash the

dishes and silver and he would pay me a dollar a day and my meals.

	I didn't leave the cafe until I had had ham and eggs and then I went over to

the hotel and paid two dollars for four days lodging.  That night I slept

wonderfully well and the next day I worked in the cafe.

	I learned to cook and to serve and soon I was able to do most anything.  Mr.

and Mrs. Cole were most kind to me, but the man never came back from San

Francisco.  Then one day someone reported that he had committed suicide.  I was

terribly down hearted and told Mr. Cole that I must try to find work.

	He talked with the manager of the creamery and on St. Patrick's Day, March 17,

1922, at ten o'clock in the morning, I began working for the Golden State

Creameries.  I continued to work for Mr. Cole, and when I was placed on the

night shift, that was great.  I got good pay at the creamery and they raised my

wages almost every month.

	I rented a private room and I was very happy.  My English, though, was not very

good.  I said, "You are vacuum" instead of "welcome".  And to the last, I called

Mrs. Cole and her daughter "Honey" because that is what Mr. Cole called them.

	When I was in Japan, a dentist damaged my gum when he was trying to pull two of

my teeth.  As you might guess, he pulled out two good teeth and I continued to

suffer toothache constantly.  I got an Arcata dentist to do a complete repair

job and I came out with gold crowns on many teeth.

	I bought stocks in oil companies, in the new Star automobile.  I studied

through correspondence schools and I saved my money.

	One time the creamery wanted a small field plowed, I was the one assigned to

the job.  I had never driven horses, and plowin I had never tried.  A man came

with two horses and pointed at the field and then went away.  I smacked my lips

like a real Swede farmer but when I came to the end of the field and said,

"Ptroo, ptroo" the horses wouldn't stop, so I plowed in a circle and came back

for the next furrow.  But then it began to rain and I still could not stop the

horses.  The clay built up under my shoes and the horses snorted and I was

shedding a few tears when the man came running toward me.  He yelled at the

horses and at me, and I learned a lot of new words.  I was thoroughly drenched,

besides.

	After a year and a half, I moved to San Francisco because I want to go to

school.  I worked at many places, always preferring to find work on sewing

machines.  At night I went to High School of Commerce.

	I was born in Borgholm, Oland, June 7, 1898.  My parents left me at a

children's shelter and disappeared.  When my parents failed to ever return, Miss

Kack, who was the director of the care center, adopted me as her son.  I never

heard from my  parents but I did hear that I had two or three brothers.

	My foster mother, Miss Kack, died of cancer when I was nine years old.  Someone

brought me to an asylum in Stockholm and later I was placed in many different

homes, ending up at the City Mission Children's Home where I was confirmed.  I

had sewn myself, with my belongings packed in a chest I had made in the

woodworking class.  I worked in many places but when I was seventeen I went to

sea. --First on canal boats later coast steamers, sail and freight boats.  When

the war started, I was on ammunition boats that sailed between England and

France.  I went back to Sweden in 1919 and served my military training in

Karlskrona.  Later I sailed to China and Japan, and from the Orient to the

little town of Arcata.

	After High School in San Francisco, I went to the University of California

where I met my wife.  Her parents came from Varmland, Sweden, and their names

were Oscar and Selma Petersom.  Both had died before I met Martha.  After a year

we were married.

	We have two boys--one in Ohio and one in Seattle.  We also have two

daughters--one in Korea and one a registered nurse in Vancouver, Washington.  We

have ten grandchildren.

	During the last 20 years, I have been compiling a book about sewing machines so

that housewives can understand the workings of their machines and sew better. 

It is written in English and the price is $1.95.

	I must say that this is only the second letter I have written in Swedish in the

last 45 years.  I have been studying and reading the Swedish American Tribune to

which I subscribed but which has been coming up to Johan Johnson, my good

friend.  At renewal time we shall have two subscriptions since I have learned

Swedish again.  





(Contributed by Ned Simmons)



TIMES AND LIFE OF POROUS PLASTER

COMMUNITY CORRESPONDENT



	At the top of the second column, third page of the February 23, 1883 edition of

The Times Daily Telephone "Porous Plaster" began his newspaper career by

stating:

	

	I have concluded with your permission to enrolled myself in your corps of

correspondents.

	

	For the next six months his letters from Trinidad had newspaper readers begging

for more.

	

	These were busy times in the logging woods behind Trinidad and the town had a

healthy glow of prosperity.  Most everyone agreed that Trinidad was soon to be a

major lumber producing city, and equal to Mendocino.  As "Porous Plaster"

reported in his first letter:



Business is lively here.  The Mill Company has a large force of men employed

overhauling their mill, and its capacity will be greatly increased.  Another

force under W.F. White is engaged in building bridges for the new extension of

the railroad.  Peter Hanson has taken the contract for making shingles at the

shingle mill, and in fact all signs pointed to a brisk summer's work at

Trinidad.



	His third paragraph demonstrated tact and courtesy which he would not always

use when writing about his neighbors:



Warren Watkins, for many years landlord of the Occidental Hotel, and who always

meets his friends with a smile and a grip, having concluded to retire from the

business has leased his Hotel to Capt. J. H. Bott, ex-master of the schooner

Elnorah, who in turn is tired of "life of the ocean wave."  The change takes

place on the first of March.  We all wish both gentlemen success in their new

vocations, as they are good fellows and deserve it.



Not only was he a tease but he proved to be a teller of tall tales too.  Some of

his stories had all of Humboldt County talking:



The good citizens of this place were rather amazed on Sunday last at the

spectacle of a young man astride the ridgepole of a two story house with a

fishing pole and line in one hand and a scoop-net in the others, vainly

endeavoring to catch one of the numerous seagulls that are constantly flying

about town.  I learned that he never had a bite, but why he should wear such a

doleful look over it has not yet been told.



His letters always ended with lies current at present.  In reporting lies he

would leave letters out of names:



Ch_y says the best bait for seagulls in p-o-r-k;  B-r found the chickens;  Fr-k

didn't know anything about those valentines - it was "the other Fr_k."



March 7, his second correspondence appeared with the story of a .....:



    .....gentlemen living in the vicinity of Trinidad who some time ago

purchased a pair of boots.  Now he is not at all vain of his feet, but those

boots would pinch.  His wife seeing his dilemma told him to "put some wheat in

them."  "Why of course: wonder he hadn't thought of it before; had seen it done

lots of times."  So off he goes, fills his boots with dry wheat and hangs them

up.  Next morning on trying his boots on he finds them as tight as ever, hunts

up his wife and with a look of profound scorn his face rants at "women's ideas."



	"Why my dear," she explains, "you should soak the wheat."  Off he goes again,

pours the wheat into a pan, soaks it for an hour of two and then puts it into

the boots.  Next morning he finds another failure.  A second time he seeks his

wife, raving at such tomfoolery.  She quietly takes them from his hand, fills

them half full of wheat, and then pours in the water.  The next day he pulls

them on with a broad smile on his phiz.  I suspect scissors had rather the best

of it for a while in that household.



"Porous Plaster's" lies current for that week included:



	That the G_d T_p_rs is a secret society; that they need a speaker.  That B_d

Hope has two dimes in the treasury - that one has a hole in it, and hat they

intend to build a brick hall.  That P_s B-ll thinks he can ride horseback, but

the horse don't.



	All this was too much, so on March 11, the other Trinidad reporter using the

name "Missouri", took notice:



	Opposition is the life of trade.  Since my last screed I have noticed tow

letters from "Porous Plaster" whoever he may be, that writer is making it lively

for the boys up here, and I hope that his correspondence will be continued, for

it is anxiously looked for here.  But if you could have been on the corner the

other night and heard the threat made against "Porous Plaster", it would have

made your blood curdle.  I want to see some fun, and know that if his identity

is discovered the fun will be a certainty.  But I have a notion that he is "too

smart" to be caught at it.

		F_k says that "Porous Plaster" is a liar; that G_d T_'s don't need a speaker;

that he is capable of explaining himself satisfactorily to any assemblage; that

the B_d of H_e has more than two short bits in the treasury, and that they never

dreamed of building a two-story brick hall.



	March 14, "Porous Plaster's" letter was so much fun that the editor of The

Humboldt Times had to join in and was moved to write a few lines himself:



	The next item following the "snake story" of our Trinidad correspondent, in

today's paper, is a question as to why the good people of that place do not

engage the services of a minister.  The story itself is suggestive of a rare

opportunity for ministerial labor, but would not the labor of a temperance

reformer by more useful in reducing the size and quantity of snakes?



Porous Plaster's "snake story" follows:



	Three of our young men while outside the Heads the other day is a small boat

fishing, met with an incident so startling as to totally cure them of any

further desire of indulging in piscatorial sport.  I shall relate the story, as

nearly as possible, as I heard it.

		It seems they left the bay about daylight, and about 8 o'clock arrived at the

fishing ground, three miles south of Trinidad Head, and anchoring well all soon

busily engaged hauling in the members of the finny tribe.  They were suddenly

startled by a noise resembling the roaring of a thousand bulls.  With blanched

faces and trembling limbs they hastily turned to the direction from which it

proceeded, and a sight met their gaze that was enough to make the stoutest of

hearts quail.  Scarcely one hundred yards distant was an enormous serpent, its

head erect and raised fully 20 feet above the level of the ocean, while about 70

feet further this tail was seen lashing the water into a white foam.  Its body

in the thickest part was the size of a barrel, and covered with large scales

that glistened in the sun's rays like polished steel.  Its head was adorned with

a pair of horns, white as ivory, and about a foot in length, curved inwardly. 

The eyes of the beast were of a fiery red and seemed to flash with rage upon

perceiving the boat and her crew, one of whom had presence of mind enough to cut

the anchor line, and encouraged his companions to take their oars and pull for

dear life.  Their alarm was still further increased upon perceiving the serpent

following, but fortunately his snakeship seemed to have no ideas of making a

meal, but kept an even distance for them and upon coming abreast of Pilot Rock

dove, and was seen no more.  The boys soon reached the shore and were taken out 

of their boat in an exhausted condition.  A look-out has been kept for his

majesty, but up to the time of writing nothing further has been seen of him.

		Our Sunday School is progressing finely under the efficient management of the

Rev. George Burrows.  It seems strange that no inducement is held out to that

gentleman by the people of Trinidad to hold religious services every Sunday, as

it would no doubt be the means of doing a great deal of good.



	It was not long until the effects of the snake story showed.  March 18, the

Rohnerville correspondent wrote:



	I think your reflections and insinuations in relation to the Trinidad Snake, or

monster of the deep, are rather severe and uncalled for.  I recognize in the

description given the same monster that Gus Schumacher encountered on the South

Fork, several years ago.  Like these Trinidad fisherman Gus thought his life in

imminent peril, for the actions of the snake; but being naturally cool and

brave, and a warrior by instinct, he drew his derringer and attacked the

reptile.  So fierce and sanguinary was the assault, that the monster took to the

water and disappeared, and this appearance at Trinidad is probably the first

time it has dared to poke its hideous head in sight since.  "There was an

account, soon after published in the Times, of another person meeting the same

reptile, and of its swallowing his dog before it could stop barking, but I have

always considered the whole of that story a lie."



March 23, the editor wrote,



	Had a good, old-fashioned shake with Jereh Kiler, Keeper of the Trinidad Light,

last evening.  The old veteran looks about as well as he did 20 years ago.  One

among the many things he whispered was that he had ordered several barrels of

oil, which he is going to pour on the ocean's surface in the vicinity of the

Head to protect unweary fishermen from the assault of that "serpent."  He thinks

a little oil will do the work.



	On March 28, "Porous Plaser's" fourth article appeared and it was apparent that

he was now in the unenviable position of being a superstar and having to top his

own stories.  This week, the man to see his name in print was Michael Hanrahan,

former Postmaster at Bald Hills, for having built an ugly fence around his town

property.  He also made several suggestions on how to carry the mail between

Trinidad and Crescent City (65 miles) in 23 hours as the new postal contracts

called for:



I have been figuring all sorts of ways.  I thought of putting on a line of

steamers, of building pneumatic tubes - of procuring trained ostriches - of

getting some carrier pigeons - but have finally concluded that I cannot take the

job unless Uncle Sam allows me money enough to build a railroad along the route

and throws in the Klamath Reservation to boot.



	And now, Mr. Editor, I have just a few more words to add.  When I commenced

this correspondence I thought I was entering upon a career of received the

thanks of my neighbors and your readers, but it seems not.  To begin with, Frank

says I am a liar, Jim Donelly says the same, only a little more emphatically,

and gives as a reason that it was not a 9-lb. Potato he had on his ranch - it

was a pumpkin.  Our worthy light keeper holds up his hands in dismay at the

"snake yarn", as he improperly calls it, and then a detective from Eureka--I

forget whether it is Noah or Daniel Webster, anyhow it is one of that family--is

placed upon my track, and a job up on me in which a certain young lady is to

write a letter and wind me up to the eternal smash.  And last, but not least

you, Mr. Editor, hint that it would not be out of place for me to attend a

temperance lecture.  That is the unkindest cut of all.  I am prepared to have

you all step up and apologize.



Nobody apologized, but he had them begging for more when he skipped a week. 

April 12, the editor wrote:



John Flaherty, of Trinidad was in town yesterday.  Will "Porous Plaser" make

note of it?



April 13, the editor again:



What has become of our Trinidad correspondent, "Porous Plaser"?  Has he been

bitten by that big snake?



April 14, the editor asked:



Has anything happened to our Trinidad correspondent?  Con it be that Hanrahan

has forced him in?



Then, finally, on April 17 the editor announced:



"Porous Plaster" has been heard from.  His letter will appear tomorrow.



His fifth letter appeared the next day, April 18, under the heading, "Porous

Plaster Welcomed Back".



I was sorry at not being able to send my usual letter last week, but was engaged

Sunday in completing some work that had to be finished before Monday morning,

and was so obliged to delay my correspondence.



He exposed his plans of becoming rich by either running for Public

Administration or getting a job in the land office.  He then covered news items

including location of the bridge over the Mad River, the coming school concert,

and the gale which prevented the steamer from landing.  And then,



I understand the citizens of Trinidad will hold an indignation meeting of May

1st, to take action in the matter of removing ex-postmaster Hanrahan's fence, if

it is not removed before that time.

	Deputy Assessor Becon is in town assessing.  He is a very agreeable gentlemen,

and draws a $2 poll tax from a pocket as gently as Dr. Gates, of your town, can

extract a tooth.

	The pleasant countenance of John Hanrahan was seen on our streets last week. 

John has gone to Arcata bottom to live, but says he still has a thought for

Trinidad.



He had a score to settle with the Garberville correspondent to the Standard so

he finished his letter with:



Your statements sonny, are rather transparent, and as I understand there are

large numbers of sheep in your locality, sonny, I would warn you (for there are

all the symptoms in your case) that the phytuorous habits of that quadruped are

often times cultivated by the biped, and are not at all conducive of mental

perspicuity.  I do not mean by this to call you a mutton head, as I have

altogether to much respect for the sheep.



"Porous Plaster" only wrote three more letters--April 25, May 5, and May 10. 

They were all good but the sarcasm was descending.  His last letter had no more

bite than to say:



A.W. Ericson and H.C. Cleverly, of Arcata, were in town last week.  I hear that

the latter gentleman on his trip up performed several acrobatic maneuvers,

assisted by one of John Hally's horses.

	Mr. J.S. Hadly, of Bayside, paid us a visit last week.  His attention seemed

greatly taken up with school matters and teachers.  He left for home Sunday,

smiling and looking happy.  He will probably come often.

	Our livery man, Mr. Flaherty, has been received a new buggy from San Francisco.

 The ladies are delighted with it.

	Our road overseer is out looking for the roads.  It is doubtful if he can find

them.



The last reference to Porous Plaster in The Times (August 19, 1883) was in the

program of a benefit entertainment for the Trinidad cemetery fund:



An immense counterfeit of a porous plaster and a block of redwood, fairly set

the audience wild.













THOMAS PETERSON'S LITTLE RIVER SHIPYARD

By Julia L. Moungovan and Nannie Escola

From: The Saga of Little River



	If little river had no other claim to fame, the ship-building that was centered

there in the early days, it would have made its place in the development of

Mendocino County.



	The most famous of the coastal ship builders, Thomas Peterson, built about

twenty ships there.



	In 1877 a member of the staff of the West Coast Star visited the Peterson

shipyard in Little River.  The following is an excerpt from the article of

February 10, 1877:



	"The shipyard is well adapted for the purpose for which it is used; roomy and

in close proximity to the water, with every convenience at hand, it is just the

place for speedy execution of the work.  Three vessels can be in course of

construction oat one time.  Everything is right at hand; the material is so

close that hauling is necessary only a short distance.  In face, Mr. Peterson

has not forgotten a single item which tends to make a first class yard, and with

such superior accommodations as are there contained, a vessel can be more

readily constructed and built cheaper than in other yards on the coast.



	"The schooner Electra now in the Big River trade carried off first prize in the

regatta at San Francisco, July 4, 1876, which speaks volume in favor of the

sailing capacities of the vessels built in this year. Others of his building

have been as fast sailors, as the Annie Stauffer and the Frithioff, and these

vessels have always been classed as good sailing craft."



	Mr. Peterson was a most particular boat builder.  For every ship he

constructed, he had to have at least three of the very best trees available, and

for the keel, he always insisted one must be of the best tree available.  The

logs were brought from the Albion woods by ox team, then shot down the bank on

the south side of Little River Bay, into the ocean.  At high tide they were

floated to Mr. Peterson's shipyard, which was located around the bend from the

wharf, in a gully off "Petticoat Lane," in the vicinity of the present (State

Park) ranger's home.



	All the timers were hand-hewn.  After the timbers were hewn, they were steamed

to take the sap out of them.  They were taken out from the mill on the tramway

to the wharf and lowered down the forty foot bluff into the shipyard.



	The timbers were carried to the steam-trough by two men, one on each end.  They

were put into this large trough which was built up on legs or stilts.  There was

a cover to go over the top on the trough and the ends were sealed with a piece

of canvas, sail-cloth or sack.



	The keel was not steamed because it ran the entire length of the ship.



	Perhaps the secret of Mr. Peterson's fame came from the fact of his preciseness

in every phase of shipbuilding.  Every bolt, rivet, and every single piece of

ironware used in the ship had to be weighed and balanced.  The bolts, rivets,

etc., on one side had to weigh the same as on the other side.



	Mrs. Peterson's job was to weigh these, and see that they were as balanced as

possible.



	Mr. Peterson undoubtedly had many memories of the ships he built at Little

River.  In fact, he built more of his ships there than at any other place.  In

fact, he surveyed all the landings and harbors between Bodega and Shelter Cove

(forty-two in all) and his preference was Little River.



	He had recollections of the vicissitudes of ship building.  It was at Little

River that he was thrown about fifteen feet up in the air, and received a broken

wrist and lost the hearing in his right ear.



	Apparently all the vessels he built at Little River were two masters.  As he

listed his ships in his bibliography, he lists the following as having been

built at Little River:

	

	The Schooner Phil Sheridan run down by a steamer up the coast.

	The Schooner Alice Kimball.

	The Schooner Napa City; although this was a two master, it was the smallest of

all the schooners built by Mr. Peterson.

	The Schooner W.H. Prescott; lost at San Miguel Island

	The Schooner Emma and Louise; lost in Little River port while being launched.

	The Schooner Hannah Madison.

	The Schooner  S. and M. Coombs went ashore at Fort Point, San Francisco harbor

in 1881, the vessel was a total loss.

	The Schooner Mary Pomroy was lost at Point Reyes with all on board.

	The Schooner Electra was built in 1875.

	The Schooner Galatea.

	The Schooner Barbara.

	The Schooner Little River built in 1880.

	The Schooner Johanna Brock capsized during the winter of 1879-80 up the coast

near Humboldt.





"Hyampom" School Booklet 1965

(Wintan word- high valley?)



Isaac Cox - Annals of Tr. Co. - 1858

massacre at Hyampom

Settlement

Zacharia McKay - married Indian- house still standing - hand-hewn house, 6 boys

1 girl Mrs. Brooks got it.  Brooks, the hewer.

1857- Calico instead of buckskin for dancing

1925- First Radio at Garret's

No deputy sheriff till 1950

McKay's sister killed by grizzly-

Trails- Hayfork, Humboldt, Corral Bottoms

Trail from Korbel to Hyampom

Trimble, an early settler, early mail carrier

Olsons 





From Indian Wars of the Northwest, by Bledsoe	1885



P. 124

	Humboldt City for a year or more kept in advance of any other town on the Bay. 

Stores, pack trains, mechanics, shops and saloons gave unmistakable signs of

business progress.  But that could only last while the town could control the

trade with the mines.  The advantage of a nearer route, and an Indian trail from

the head of the Bay that was practicable without costly improvements, settled

the rivalry in favor of Union and against Humboldt City.



P. 147

	Extending through all that section of country embracing the head-waters of

Panther Creek, Redwood, Mad and Eel rivers, was a wing of the powerful tribe

known as the Win-toons, or Mountain Diggers, and these constituted the sixth

division.



P. 207

	In August the town of Union was alarmed by reports of outrages by Indians on

Redwood Creek.  A settler named Ferrill went to town with the news that

depredations of various kinds were being committed, and asked assistance to

preserve property and punish the Indians.  A party of twenty men, under the

leadership of Burr McConaha, left town and went to Ferrill's place, arriving

there at twelve o'clock in the night.  They slept in a barn.  Next morning one

of the party named Jenkins was scouting in the vicinity, and found an Indian

alone, who surrendered and was taken to the camp.  On the same day the party

discovered the Indian camp on Pine Creek, twenty-seven miles from Union.  The

camp was surrounded and a sudden attack made, the result being the killing of

seven warriors.  Having inflicted this punishment for repeated depredations on

the whites, the party returned to Ferrill's house and moved his family to Union.



P. 212, 213, 214, 215

	Never did the pioneers of Northern California experience a harder Winter than

that of 1856-'57.  From the first of December, 1856, to the middle of April,

1857, storm after storm swept over the country - cold, pelting, blinding,

drenching rain on the coast, snow everywhere on the mountains inland.



Pack trains from Union were stopped by impassable barriers before they had gone

twenty miles.  Men and animals were lost in the snow, and other men in search of

them were lost in their turn, reaching the settlements half-starved and

half-frozen.



Self-preservation was a necessity for both the Indian and the white man.  So,

through four months and a half of rain, and snow, and heavy gales, -------there

was complete freedom from any hostile demonstrations on the part of the natives

and a sense of perfect security among the whites.



Burr McConaha, a packer to the mines, started from Salmon River to Union, by way

of Orleans and Hoopa, together with Frank Ball, C.S. Harrington and a Chinaman. 

While crossing the mountains between Hoopa and Redwood Creek all the animals

gave out and the men were compelled to leave them and proceed on foot.  When

within two miles of Redwood, Ball succumbed to the cold and dropped to the

ground exhausted.  Harrington and the Chinaman lost their way in the snow. 

They, too, were about to sink exhausted, when a welcome gleam of light guided

them to a human habitation, the home of J.A. Ferrill on Redwood Creek.  It was

then in the early hours of the morning.  Without delay a relief party set out to

rescue McConaha and Ball.  On the top of the hill they found the two men

crouching near a fire, Ball wrapped in McConaha's coat.  Bothe were able to walk

and were escorted to a safe resting-place at Ferrill's.



P. 217 

	Notwithstanding the extreme severity of the preceding Winter the Spring of 1857

was remarkable for a wonderful revival of all brandes of trade, ------The miners

in all the districts on the Klamath, Salmon and Trinity had an abundance of

water, and nearly all the claims paid well.  Prosperity in the mines meant

prosperity elsewhere, ----.



P. 218

The entire internal commerce of the Northern counties of the State was carried

on in 1857 by means of pack-trains of hardy mules.  Trinity county alone

contained one hundred and twenty-eight trading-posts, doing an annual business

of over a million dollars, yet every pound of merchandise sold over their

counters was transported across the mountains by pack-trains.



P. 219

	The trade for the season was fairly commenced during the month of April.  Pack

trains arrived at Union and Eureka and departed daily, the supplies of

merchandise from San Francisco scarcely keeping pace with the demand.  The

diversion of the whole carrying trade of the upper Trinity from Shasta to

Humboldt Bay was no longer a matter of doubtful prophecy.  Farmers crops and

very remunerative sales by the opening of passable trails to the mines; and

those who had struggled along through the years of its early settlement, with no

reward for high price for all their produce.  The lumber industry also was

attracting the attention of capitalists and paying handsomely those who were

engaged in it.  A wonderful progress had been made in seven years.



Since the first settlement was made on the Bay there had been a large annual

trade with the mines.  The first trading was done wholly with the lower Trinity.

 Merchandise from Union or Trinidad did not at first so farther than the North

Fork of Trinity, that stream and its lower tributaries constituting the entire

market for merchandise from Humboldt Bay during two years or more.



P. 200

Other places then began to attract the floating population of miners.  The

settlements began to extend lower down the Trinity and on the New River; the

Klamath opened a new field for trade and enterprise, the Salmon in its turn made

a market for the trader, and both increased in importance until they had

outgrown very considerably the original and single field of the Trinity, which,

by its superiority and the relative cheapness of transportation, drew into this

channel an amount of merchandise larger than that before sent either to the

Klamath, the Salmon or the lower Trinity.  Some supplies for the Klamath and

Salmon were drawn from other shipping points on the coast, and Shasta and Red

Bluff held undisputed possession of a large trade in the upper Trinity country. 

Yet the natural commercial advantages of Humboldt Bay, if properly sustained and

developed, could not fail in the end to secure the largest most important

trading post on the bay, the solid prosperity and enterprise of the place being

an excellent indication of the permanent and settled feeling that had come over

the whole community.



P. 224

There were a few Indian depredations and disturbances, not frequent or serious

enough to create any general alarm.  In August, a young Spaniard, in the employ

of Mallet & Gould, packers was shot by Indians on the trail three miles from Mad

River.  He was riding behind the train when the first shot was fired, the ball

passing through the fleshy part of his thigh.  He supposed it came from his own

revolver, accidentally discharged, and dismounted to examine it. Another shot

distinctly fired from the bush near by passed under his arm, cutting his shirt,

and lodged in the side of his  mule.  The boy then ran for the train and

escaped.











Chapter XIII The War with the Wintoons   How it Commenced



P. 228

	In the tribal classification of the Indians of Northwestern California, the

Wintoons, or Mountain Diggers, are designated as the sixth general division, and

their country is described as embracing headwaters of Panther's, Redwood Creek,

Mad & Eel Rivers but was only a portion of the territory in which the Wintoons

lived.  There were other mountain tribes, chiefly confined to the banks of large

streams; but the Wintoons must have peopled the Bald Hills country in places far

remote from the larger streams.  They were a hardy race, subsisting on game and

nuts.  As their principal occupation was hunting, unlike the lower or valley

tribes, who subsisted on fish, the Wintoons early became accustomed to the use

of firearms.  Before Dr. Gregg and his companions descended the Trinity there

were a few guns in the possession of the high mountain tribes, and when the

valley Indians were using them ignorantly and with little effect the Wintoons

had acquired a proficiency in their use which was anything but encouraging to

travelers on the lonely trails. ......For several years after the Klamath War

they committed occasional depredations on the property of stock-raisers in the

Bald Hills, and when they saw their old hunting-grounds deserted by the deer and

elk, the devil that is naturally an Indian's companion began to assert itself. 

Revenge is sweet ........the Wintoons commenced their war by committing several

atrocious murders.

	It was in the first week of February, 1858, that an event occurred which had a

direct tendency to precipitate difficulties between the Wintoons and the whites.

 Among the worthless characters who infested the country was a Negro known by

the name of "Leroy".  He had adopted the Indian mode of life, and had taken to

his bosom one of the dusky maidens of the forest.  She, tiring of him, resolved

to rid herself of his unwelcome presence.  Three miles from Angel's Ranch they

had made their camp and "Leroy" was dutifully hunting game with which to

replenish their Winter larder.  The partner of his joys and sorrows here

informed him that his services would be dispensed with, and if he did not

forthwith depart her people would come and kill him.  He, in no wise daunted,

stood his ground.  Two stout Indians assaulted him, one armed with a hatchet,

the other with a knife.  A brutal fight ensued, in which the Negro was badly

wounded in the left breast by a blow with the hatchet.  The Negro subsequently

reached Angel's Ranch, where he gave an account of the fight and reported that

he had killed the two Indians with a knife.  A party of white men visited the

camp.  There were no dead bodies on the spot, and the Indians had robbed the

camp of everything "Leroy" possessed, including the squaw.  A few days after the

affray an Indian went to Woodward & Barney's place, on the Trinity trail, and

was recognized as belonging to the rancheria of the two who had attacked

"Leroy".  He was bound and chained to a tree, was kept in that position till he

confessed his knowledge of the attack on the Negro, and later his tribe brought

in the guns and pistols which had been taken from the camp.  They also confessed

that the Negro had killed both of his assailants with a sheath-knife.  Being

urged to make further confessions of Indian depredations, and threatened with

death if they did not tell the truth, they said that two men named Granger and

Cook, who had disappeared from that Vicinity a year before, were murdered by the

Wintoons.

	"Leroy's" fight and subsequent proceeding were not calculated to perpetuate

peace.  An intense excitement spread among the Wintoons, creating a burning

desire to revenge themselves for the death of two of their number, and it

culminated three months later in one of the boldest attacks ever committed by

them.  A white man was shot down on the Trinity trail, near Grouse Creek, on

Wednesday, the 23d of June.  Two packers, Henry Allen and Wm. E. Ross,

accompanied by two Indian boys, were going up to the Trinity with their train. 

As they were descending Grouse Creek Hill, not expecting danger, Ross was shot

from an ambush where a party of Indians were lying.  He was shot three times. 

He fell from his mule, and when Allen reached him he was unable to stand on his

feet.  Allen carried him away from the trail, made a bed for him, and sent on e

of the boys for assistance.  The Indians came out from their ambush and coolly

looked on while Allen unpacked the mules.  When the boy started off they hailed

him, but he put spurs to his mule and reached Pardee's Ranch in safety.  A Mr.

Barney, who was a partner in the Pardee property and living on the place,

started to Allen's assistance and sent the boy on to Eureka.  When Mr. Barney

reached the spot where Ross had been shot he found Allen unharmed and

ministering to the wants of his wounded companion.  He had erected a barricade

of packs from the mule and was determined to stay with Ross to the end.  The boy

who went for assistance arrived at Eureka at 6 o'clock in the evening, having

traveled the 37 miles in less than 5 hours. (A relief party of six men from

Eureka, carried Ross to Pardee's where he stayed for two weeks and from there

was taken to Eureka in a hammock within a make shift wooden framework placed on

the back of a mule.)



	(In July, three parties of volunteers went to the same area to campaign against

the Wintoons, killed several warriors, but fell back to Pardee's when they found

they were outnumbered.  One man, Orrin Stevens, was shot and killed, the men

exhausted, provisions and ten mules lost to the Indians.)



	While the citizens of the Bay towns were agitating the regular formation of

Volunteer Companies, and raising money to defray their expenses, the hostile

Indians were not idle in their work of destruction.--------------



On the morning of the 14th of September occurred the murder of Paul Boynton, who

lived with his family ten miles form Union, on the Trinity trail.  Boynton was

killed within two hundred yards of his house, between seven and eight o'clock in

the morning.  Some packers had camped there during the night, and in the

morning, as they were preparing to leave, he started off after his cows.  Before

he was out of sight the report of a rifle was heard, and a number of Indians

were seen running away from the premises.  The packers seized their guns and ran

to Boynton's assistance.  Close to a little wood, in whose impenetrable shadows

the Indians had been hidden, they found the dead body of Boynton, yet warm,

pierced through and through by a rifle ball.  From the position taken by the

attacking party it was assumed that they had been in ambush all night, and that

they intended, after killing Boynton, to made a raid on the house and its

inmates.  The presence of the packers had foiled their designs of the house but

had not prevented the death of its owner.  Mr. Boynton was from Cook county,

Illinois, and arrived at Humboldt Bay in 1853, residing at Union until 1857,

when he settled at the place where he was killed.



	On the morning after the murder of Boynton Pardee's Ranch was attacked.  The

dogs at Pardee's house kept the attacking party at bay for a few minutes, when

Messrs, Pardee and Barney went out in the yard and were instantly fired on. 

Neither was hit and the Indians did not follow up the attack.  When night set in

Pardee's family started for Union, arriving safely at three o'clock on Thursday

morning, having left their house and effects to be destroyed.



	---Of Chauncey Miller, a trader of the Trinity, who had volunteered to clear

the trail of dangerous obstructions, and had given his life as the forfeit---



The Trinity trail was completely blockade and the people were suffering much

inconvenience and great loss for want of an adequate military force to open it. 

The arrival of the troops had delayed the organization of a Volunteer Company at

Eureka or Union which would have been in the field weeks before. -------Captain

Underwood, who had been assigned to the command, did arrive on the 2d of

October, and a few days thereafter was set out with 36 men, with orders to take

a position in the neighborhood of Pardee's Ranch, halfway between Union and the

South Fork of Trinity. 



	The Company of Volunteers under Captain Messec had the honor of the first

engagement with the Wintoons.  On a scout in the vicinity of Pardee's Ranch,

they attacked a hostile camp on Tuesday afternoon, October 26th.  A surprise had

been planned which was not effectual, owing to the light, which enabled the

Indians to see the whites before they could surround the camp.  Taking to the

bush as soon as attacked, the Indians offered a running fight, firing from

behind protecting trees and rocks.  One of the Volunteers, John Harpst, was shot

in the left shoulder and severely injured.  Four Wintoon warriors were killed,

and two squaws and four children made prisoners.  (An extremely severe storm in

February of 1859, with very deep snow resulting, actually starved the hostiles

into submission within four weeks). -----On the 20th of March the expedition was

declared to be closed and the war ended. ----As a result of the expedition (of

Capt. Messec and Gen. Kibbe of the Volunteer Company) three hundred Indians had

been taken prisoner and sent to the Mendocino Reservation and nearly one hundred

warriors had been killed.



	In the month of May Gen. Kibbe paid off the Volunteers in full; Capt Messec

took leave of his Company; and the settlers of the Trinity trail, as well as the

people generally in the country ravaged by the Indians, were profoundly grateful

that the war had ended so well.



P. 291

If a scouting party was needed and demanded in the hills, he (Major Raines, of

Fort Humboldt) considered it his duty to dignify every halting place with the

name of "Post", and he could not seriously think of sending out a detachment of

one hundred men without making preparations commensurated with an army of ten

thousand.



P. 317

(After the slaughter of Indian Island, depredations by Indians were again on the

increase)  1860-spring

A.L. Pardee living on the Trinity trail, near Mad River, was shot at three times

by savages in the bush.-----Capt. Snyder and a party of whites made an attack on

as Indian rancheria a short distance above Big Bend, Mad River.  Ten warriors

were killed and the rancheria broken up.



(By early 1861, war was raging in the whole area - the Hoopas up till now, not

much trouble also entered in - a drunken white man and a soldier had murdered a

boy there trying to protect his mother from them.)



P. 350

	November, too, passed through a fiery ordeal of murder and rapine.  At

Brehmer's Ranch, on Mad River, twenty miles from Union, were living Mr. Grehmer,

John Stewart, Christian and Henry Lemke, brothers, and another man, who were

engaged in herding cattle in the vicinity.  On the morning of the 7th of

November they left the house in search of cattle, each going in a different

direction.  Towards evening, as Henry Lemke was returning home, and while four

or five miles from the house, he received a bullet in the back, which felled him

from his horse in a senseless condition.  When he returned to consciousness a

minute later a number of hideous savages were stripping him of his clothes. 

Realizing that his only chance for life was to feign death, he succeeded by a

powerful effort of the will in controlling his impulse to struggle with his

assailants.  He lay as limp and lifeless as their hands as though life had

really left his body.  They stripped him naked and started off; but one, as if

to assure himself of the death of the victim, turned back and pointed a pistol

at Lemke's head.  The ball grazed his neck, and burying itself in the ground

threw dirt and gravel in his face.  Still he lay motionless, exerting the full

strength of his mind in a prodigious effort to refrain from every appearance of

life.  The ruse was successful.  The Indians left him, and disappeared in the

forest.  Lemke rose to his feet and started on foot, naked, for Brehmer's house.

 He had gone but a little way when he was his brother's horse, riderless,

running toward him from an opposite direction.  The horse knew him, and he

caught and mounted the animal.  When he reached the house it was vacant.  None

of the party who had gone out in the morning had returned.  He turned away, and

sick and faint, bleeding and dying, rode his brother's horse in the direction of

the nearest neighbor's place, several miles distant.  He met Brehmer and another

man, who up to this time knew nothing of what had occurred.  They returned to

the house with Lemke, and through the night alternately guarded and watched over

him.  The would he had received was mortal, and he died before morning.  The

next day the dead bodies of Christian Lemke and John Stuart were found on a

trail near the house.



P. 356

The country was inhabited by hostile Indians to the number of 2,500, who were

well supplied with firearms and expert in their use.



P. 357

	Throughout September and to the middle of October there was a season of dry,

warm weather in which great fires raged on the mountains and in the forests,

placing the Guards at serious disadvantage in following the plans of the

campaign. -----It was late in the month of November when they first had an

opportunity to distinguish themselves.  On the 17th day of the month occurred

the battle of Thief Camp.  On the day previous Liert. Warren with a detachment

of sixteen men left Thief Camp on the trail of a party of hostiles who had

killed cattle in the neighborhood and were packing the spoils to their

rancherias.  That night, following close on the tracks of the Indians, the

Guards saw the light of fire in a large rancheria near Pardee's Ranch.  The

detachment halted for the night, and at half-past seven o'clock on the morning

of the 17th an attack was made on the rancheria.  There were nearly one hundred

warriors in the rancheria.  There were nearly one hundred warriors in the

rancheria, who, contrary to the rules governing their race in war, make a firm

stand, and returned without flinching the fire of the Volunteers.  The fight

continued in a desultory manner for an hour, the Indians firing through

port-holes in their log houses, the Volunteers from behind trees and stumps. 

The rancheria was in a singular commotion for a few minutes, when it was

ascertained that one hundred warriors from a neighboring rancheria had slipped

in unobserved and reinforced the besieged party.  A squaw had gone to them in

the beginning of the fight and brought them to assist her tribe.  The position

of the Guards was precarious and uncomfortable.  Snow covered the ground and was

still falling  The log houses of the rancheria were strong structures, from

which it would be difficult and hazardous to dislodge the enemy.  Chas. Huestis,

who had acted as guide to the attacking party, advised the men to keep behind

the trees, and becoming a target for the Indians in the rancheria, he fell, shot

through the heart.  For nearly two hours longer the Guards maintained the

unequal fight, when their ammunition being exhausted and six of their number

being wounded, they were obliged to retreat and abandon the dead body of

Huestis.  The six wounded were Lieut. Warren, Mills, Donahue, Peasley, Bosqui,

and Watson.  It was estimated that twenty Indians were killed.  The Guards

retreated to Thief Camp, twenty-three miles from Union, and on the same evening,

the 17th, Capt. Werk sent I.W. Hempfield and three others to Capt. Wilkinson's

Camp in Larabee Valley for reinforcements.  The four men rode all night, and the

next day started back with Lieut. Wilkinson and eleven men.  They were joined at

thus formed marched to attack the rancheria was deserted.  The body of Huestis

was dug up from the snow two rods from the sport where he fell.  Nine men were

detailed to convey the body to Union and the remainder of the force pushed on in

pursuit of the Indians.  The Indians were tracked to Redwood Creek and for some

distance down that stream, when word was brought of the location of two

rancherias near by.  The Volunteer force was divided into two equal divisions,

and under the command of Lieuts Wilkinson and Warren proceeded on each side of

the creek with the intention of making a simultaneous attack on the two

rancherias.  They were discovered by the Indians in one of the rancherias, who

escaped.  The Warren detachment attacked the other rancheria and killed fourteen

warriors.  One of the attacking party - Russell - was slightly wounded in the

knee by a bullet.  On the same day two of the Guards - I.D. Herrick and James

Brock - went further down the stream, where they saw two Indians.  At a signal

agreed upon they fired, killing one of the Indians.  The other fled and was

chased by Brock, who fired two pistol shots at him, both which stuck but did not

stop him.  Brock caught him by the hair, and called on his comrade to shoot. 

Herrick fired, the ball striking Brock in the hand, severely injuring three

fingers.  The Indian escaped, badly wounded.  Coupled with the wounds received

in battle, and with the death of Huestis, his ludicrous termination of the

expedition completed its disastrous story.



P. 366

Three other new posts were established, one at Neal's Ranch on the Van Duzen, 28

miles East of Hydesville, one at Brehmer's Ranch, on Mad River, and one on

Redwood Creek, a mile below Minor's Ranch.



P. 388

Mr. Brehmer's house on upper Mad River, from which he had removed, was burned to

the ground;



P. 398

Here (peninsula, opposite Bucksport) were over 800 savages of all sizes and ages

and of both sexes.  They were kept here until the steamer PANAMA was chartered

by the Government to take them all to Del Norte County.  (Smith River

Reservation) (Within two months, they all straggled back)



P. 400

At the beginning of 1863 the hostile tribes had complete possession of all the

Mad River and Redwood country back as far as Hoopa.  Every channel of traffic

between Humboldt, Trinity and Klamath counties was effectually blockaded. ---On

the North side of Mad River, from the head of Redwood to its mouth, not a single

dwelling had been saved from the general ruin.  Minor's Ranch had been known as

the "half-way house" between Fort Gaston and Union. ----And this, the only house

left in the Redwood country, was added to the list of ruined homes, through the

negligence and systematic fault of Col. Lippitt.



P. 405

	The Indians prepared for war.  Lassac, a noted leader among the hostile tribes,

who had been sent to the Trinity Reservation and escaped from the two hundred of

his people, stirred up discontent and revengeful feeling all along the Klamath,

and others of his class kept alive the disaffection on Mad River and the

Redwood.  Spies were sent out from the retreats of the mountain tribes, who

visited the valley tribes and learned of the organization and movements of the

Volunteer soldiers; foraging parties made swift descents upon the ranches of the

lower foot-hills, carrying back whole carcasses of beef to be dried and stored

for food; their packtrains moved systematically from the scenes of cattle

slaughter to their secret rancherias on the Redwood or the Klamath; at one point

on the Redwood, in the mountains above the Bald Hills, a log fort was

constructed and strongly fortified; everywhere in the hostile country, by a

preconcerted agreement among the different tribes, extensive and elaborated

preparations were make to give the whites a warm reception.



P. 408

The valley tribes alone, whose fisheries were in the midst of white settlements,

remained peaceable through the ordeal of the times.



P. 410

	On the Trinity, for many miles above its confluence with the Klamath, there

were indications of a general uprising of discontented tribes.  At Cedar Flat a

trading post was attacked and destroyed, the keeper and another man escaping to

Burnt Ranch.  The family at Burnt Ranch was removed to a safer locality, and

none too soon; one day thereafter the Indians arrived and set fire to everything

that would burn.  At Barnard's Ranch, in the same neighborhood, all the

buildings were burned, the family having left the place.  From Cedar Flat three

thousand pounds of flour was carried off, besides other provisions.  That was

the outbreak on the Trinity -----



P. 429

A remarkable engagement occurred in the month of December at Bald Mountain, five

miles from Angel's Ranch and one mile south of the old trail leading from Union

to the Trinity River, - an engagement which was remarkable for its character in

an Indian country, for the fact that it developed into a genuine siege, for the

nature of the assault and the defense, for the adroit manner in which the

besieged escaped the besiegers, and for the criticism and comment it originated.

 The Indians had constructed a log fort, enclosing a spring of water, so

arranged as the command the approaches from every direction.  There were four

log houses, pierced with loop-holes, and situated in the center of a small

prairie, surrounded by hills covered with heavy timber, on the flank of Bald

Mountain.  On the South was a deep ditch or gulch, impassable to those who did

not know the ground. -----The second day's fight had accomplished no more than

the first.  The fort had been considerably damaged by shells from the howitzer,

but its strength had not been materially diminished.  The vigorous fire from the

port-holes had not slackened, nor had the whites succeeded in killing many of

the Indians.  One man of Co. B was wounded.  At five o'clock 10 men from Lieut.

Middleton's command arrived from a place where he had camped on Bald Mountain. 

As darkness gathered Capt. Ousley posted a strong picket all around the fort,

with instructions to give warning of any suspicious movement by the Indians or

any attempt to leave their strong-hold.  The sun rose on the third day of the

siege, the first Sunday after Christmas.  There was silence at the fort.  Not a

sound issued from its port-holes, not a flash or a whistling bullet, no movement

of any kind gave sign or token of the presence of a savage foe within.  The

silence was easily explained.  The Indians were gone.  Right through the ranks

of the surrounding pickets they had passed, amid the darkness and the shadows of

the night.  Three hundred sturdy warriors, who might have been captured or

killed, were once more on the war-path, leaving their fort to be destroyed, but

leaving in it nothing of value to the whites.



P. 446

	Co. C, 6th Infantry, Capt. Buckley, was ordered from Boynton's Prairie to

Iaqua.



P. 449

	The winter of 1864-65 witnessed the final extinction of Indian troubles in the

Northwest.  ----- The miners, unharassed by war, prepared for a profitable

Summer's work.  The trails were opened and the arteries of commerce pulsated

with renewed life.





BROTHER JONATHAN

by

Bruce Cunningham



	A mournful tale of death and disaster darkened the pages of marine history in

1865, as no such terrible calamity has ever happened on the Pacific Coast.  The

steamship Brother Jonathan, well known on all of the routes north of San

Francisco, struck a sunken rock near Crescent City, and in a few minutes went to

the bottom of the ocean with nearly two hundred people, who were powerless to

escape the doomed vessel.

	The ship was built in Williamsburg, N.Y. and was launched in 1850 for the Long

Island trade with regular runs to Panama and back to New York.  Her cost was

estimated at $190,000 and she was considered a luxury ship capable of carrying

350 passengers.

	In 1850, her owner E.D. Garrison, had her brought around the Horn under the

command of Captain C.H. Baldwin, afterward Admiral in the U.S. Navy, with Hiram

Sanford, chief engineer; L.V. Low, purser; and George Hutchinson, first officer.

	The Brother Jonathon was 220 feet long with 36 foot beams.  Powered by 38 foot

paddle wheels, she was pushed by a 400 horsepower steam engine and had three

masts with sails.  Since the ship was built during the transition from sail to

steam she was equipped with both.

	Vanderbilt bought her in San Francisco for his Nicaraguan line and thus the

Jonathan entered the Westward trek of pioneer families who wished to come West

by an easier way than by crossing the plains or rounding the Horn and it's

subsequent high cost.  These pioneers sailed from the East Coast to Nicaragua,

pushed on across that narrow country and there embarked at San Juan del Sur for

San Francisco.  This route provided a cheap and speedy way to reach the gold

fields of California.  This route was closed for a time due to a Nicaraguan

civil war.

	When Cap. John L. Wright of the Merchant Accommodations Line bought Brother

Jonathan in 1857, her name was changed to Commodore.  It was about then that

gold was discovered in British Columbia and she was placed on the coastal run

between San Francisco and Victoria, B.C. with ports of call at Mendocino,

Trinidad, Crescent City, and Port Orford.  Later these ports of call were

increased to include other Northwest ports such as Portland, and as she was the

largest steamship then to enter the Columbia river, enjoyed a good trade.

	It was then that Commodore was brought into competition in opposition to the

Pacific Mail ship Columbia and there was an ensuing rate war which delighted the

traveling public.

	The entire Northwest, and especially British Columbia and Washington, was the

scene of a veritable boom in 1858.  A wild rush of gold-seekers, particularly

from the lower coast, came in search of their fortune.  News of the vast wealth

of the Fraser River gold mines spread rapidly and there was a repetition of the

1849 excitement in California.  Naturally, not all "struck it rich" and the

majority drifted into other forms of business which gave impetus to the marine

industry.  As a result of the gold rush people were here now and the work of

making the new Northwest a prosperous land began in earnest.  The Commodore and

other ships of the coastal trade paid better now that the gold mines were so

industriously sought; for it was now a matter of supplying steamers enough to

handle the crowds rushing northward.  The Commodore alone was known to carry a

thousand people at one time.

	To illustrate the heavy flow of people North, the following was obtained from

the passenger clearances from San Francisco for Victoria.  "The following list

gives the names of the vessels and the number of passengers carried by each

between April 15 and August 7, 1858.  It also shows, in a striking manner, the

rise and fall of the Fraser boom.  In April the steamship Commodore carried 300

passengers, and the schooner Golden State 15, and the steamer Constitution 140,

total 455.  In May the steamship Panama carried 568, the Commodore 194, and the

Pacific 500, total 1,262.  In June the steamships Republic carried 953,

Commodore 900, Panama 1,070, Cortez 894, Santa Cruz 208, Oregon 618, Sierra

Nevada 900, Pacific 400; schooners Giulietta 85, Kossuth 8, Emma 35, Pilgrim 11;

barks California 1, Goldhunter 132, Adeline 100, Live Yankee 210, D.M. Hall 105,

R. Passenger 250, Ann Perry 100; the ship William took 150 and the brig F. Adams

also took 19, a total of twenty four vessels, carrying 7,149 passengers."

	During the good weather she called at Crescent City every week or 10 days and

was commanded by a number of masters.  One of these commanders, Captain

Fauntleroy, was the one for whom the rock in Crescent City was named.  The

Commodore was in important visitor to the young city for not only did she carry

passengers but she brought hundreds of tons of freight for the new settlers and

miners.  Crescent City was at that time the most important port between San

Francisco and Portland, for it was a gateway to the mines and communities in the

interior and to southern Oregon.

	Exactly seven years--from July to July, prior to her tragic end, the Commodore

nearly met doom on a trip North.  Many of the circumstances proved the same.  To

quote from a San Francisco paper:

"We condense the following account of the disaster to steamer Commodore from the

statements of the passengers and log of the ship, as published in the San

Francisco papers:  "The passengers all agree in proclaiming the steamer weak and

unseaworthy, an announcement which can create no surprise.  They also agree with

one voice that Capt. Staples conducted himself with admirable coolness and

skill, and made every preparation within his power to save the lives of the

passengers, in the even of the steamer floundering, which appeared highly

probable.

	"Thursday, July 8th the Commodore got under weigh, and had on board about 250

passengers and nearly 800 tons of freight.  Friday, the crew were occupied in

stowing cargo and making the ship snug for the trip.  Saturday it blew more

freshly.  The ship leaking badly and showing signs of distress.

	"Sunday it blew a gale, creating a heavy sea, ship creaking and groaning, and

laboring heavily.  At midnight it was blowing very heavily with a high sea

running and her gunwale was under water the ship unmanageable.  Monday the ship

lying in the trough of the sea, helpless.  Impossible to get headway on her. 

Capt. gave orders to throw deck load overboard, which was done, and the ship

eased a little.  At 5 a.m. orders were given to open hatches and throw cargo

overboard.  The ship altogether unmanageable and lying in the trough of the sea

with the gunwale under water.  Orders given to man the pumps: water within a

foot of the fires; a party detailed to bail; passengers quiet and calm, working

at the pumps.

	"At 6 a.m. orders were given to shoot and throw overboard the horses, of which

were twenty on board.  This scene is truly described as being most pitiful.  The

conduct of the passengers is highly lauded as being cool, determined, and almost

cheerful, each seeming anxious to do something for the general good.  At 11 a.m.

one of the pumps gave out and the leak increased; the engine hardly moved; the

steam pipe was cracked and the boilers displaced moving side to side with the

rolls of the ship.  At noon the pump was repaired and worked well, and gaining

on the leak.  At 3 p.m., a squall was observed coming up, which Capt. Staples

determined to take advantage of, if possible, and get his ship before the wind. 

In half an hour from that time the Commodore answered her helm, and went around,

flying before the wind like a race horse, arrived at San Francisco about 2

o'clock, Wednesday morning, July 14th (1858)."



	After this near disaster, Wright sold the Commodore to the California Steam

Navigation Company, and under the superintendence of Capt. Burns, several

thousand dollars were expended in rebuilding and refitting her.  Following this

she was returned to the northern trade again were she made a fortune for her

owners.  In spite of her past history, the Commodore was considered a good

traveler when not too deeply loaded.  

	Again under the command of Captain Staples, the Commodore, after her $40,000

face lifting, resumed her old name Brother Jonathan.  With her hull newly braced

with iron plates and fastening and strengthened in every possible way, she was

now perhaps stauncher than the day she was launched.

	With Captain Staples at the helm, Brother Jonathan now took part in another

phase of Northwest history.  On March 15, 1859 she brought exciting news to the

people of Oregon Territory.  An act has been passed by Congress and signed by

President Buchanan giving statehood to Oregon.  Unknown to the new state she had

been proclaimed a state on February 14, 1859.  She was now the 33rd state in the

union.  This message had first been flashed by telegram to St. Louis.  Next it

had gone by overland stage to San Francisco and as the Brother Jonathan was the

next steamer north, the news had been entrusted to her.  It was six years before

she again made the headlines in news that would shock the nation.

	That part of the story really began on July 27th as the Brother Jonathan was

being loaded for her next trip north.  As mentioned previously, business was

booming and settlers and miners were demanding supplies by the tons.  Great

piles of freight waited to be loaded and sent when the Brother Jonathan took her

place in line at the dock.  Tons of freight were loaded into the ship's holds

and when she was drawing 14 1/2 feet, the master, Captain Samuel J. DeWolf,

declared that was all his ship could hold safely.  An official and

vice-president of the company ignored the Captains words and loaded cargo until

the ship was drawing 18 feet.  Only then were the 194 passengers allowed to

board and join a crew of 54.

	The Captain was very worried and begged to have some of the passengers removed

but the official of the company became angry and warned the Captain that if he

persisted, he would be replaced.  Not wishing to lose his command, the Captain

gave the orders to sail at 10 a.m., Friday the 28th of July.



"The local office of the California Steam Navigation Company advised the

Merchants Exchange and the Marine Underwriters that their vessel Brother

Jonathan, 2000 tons burden, S.J. DeWolf Commander had cleared for Portland and

British Columbia ports on a schedule at noon, Friday, July 28, 1865, with 700

tons of merchandise freight."



	Strong headwinds were encountered at once and after a laborious passage she

made Crescent City where cargo was unloaded all of Saturday night.

	Sunday morning, the Brother Jonathan again put to sea; this time in the face of

a gale.  By noon the ship was out of sight of land and close to the Oregon

border.  Waves were mountainous and they were now in the teeth of a howling

north-western.  As heavily loaded as the ship was she could make little headway

as her steam boilers were inadequate to the job given them.  In the buffeting

seas, the rudder was almost useless and the ship was being driven toward the

rocky shore.  Sixteen miles northwest of Crescent City, Captain DeWolf knew his

ship could take no more and decided to alter course and return to Crescent City.

	Unfortunately they were passing the dangerous St. George Reef and the ship was

nearly unmanageable.  This reef extends for several miles westward into the

ocean; starting about four miles from land.  It is customary for steamers

sailing against a north-western to keep close to the shore which is inside the

reef and as much as possible out of the wind.  For some reason, the Brother

Jonathan was running outside to reef.  Her position was estimated at eight miles

due west of Point St. George when she struck hard on an uncharted rock.  Captain

De Wolf ordered "Full Astern" but the force of the waves and his unwieldly

vessel defeated his hopes.  The Brother Jonathan was doomed.

	When she struck  the reef, the Brother Jonathan hit with such force that the

foremast was furled through the bottom planking.  With the ship sinking rapidly,

the order was given to abandon ship.  Frantic people and the wallowing ship

swamped the first two life-boats launched and only one managed to escape with

its load of frightened passengers.

	As the lifeboat pulled away Captain De Wolf called, "Tell them," he shouted

over the noise of the wind and the water, "that if they had not overloaded us we

would have got through all right, and this would never had happened."

	Picking its way through living and dead bodies tossed about by the heavy seas,

the boat made its uncertain way toward land and safety.  As long as the Brother

Jonathan remained afloat, the passengers of the overload lifeboat watched

whenever their boat crested on a wave.  Finally she was gone.

	Fortunately, the wind was at their backs for with but two oars and heavy seas

the distance would otherwise have been impossible.  After battling the wind and

seas for over two hours the boat finally reached shore and safety around 4

o'clock in the afternoon.

	While the people of Crescent City opened their homes and hearts to the

survivors, others manned boats in the futile hope of finding survivors clinging

to wreckage.  Third Officer Patterson who had been in charge of the one escaping

lifeboat returned with the searchers and, though exhausted by his experience,

stayed until all hope was gone.

	Of the entire ship's compliment, only 19 people survived.  About 2000 persons

perished that day, and Captain De Wolf went down with his ship.

	People from all walks of life were aboard the ill-fated vessel.  A "Madam" with

seven of her "soiled doves" were enroute from San Francisco to Portland.  All of

them perished.

	A General and Mrs. George Wright and staff, enroute to his new post commander

of the Department of the Columbia perished.

	Major E.W. Eddy was going north as paymaster at Fort Vancouver and carrying

with him a payroll of between $200,000 and $300,000.  It has been thought quite

possible that this money was not in gold but was in the form of paper currency.

	Joseph A. Lord, had been express messenger for Wells, Fargo and Company for a

number of years and was supposedly carrying some $140,000 in gold.

	Dr. D. Anson Henry, formerly U.S. surveyor general, and a friend of recently

assassinated President Lincoln, had just been appointed governor of the

Washington Territory.

	James Nesbit, editor of the San Francisco Bulletin, was on a trip to the

Oregon, Washington and British Columbia Territories for his paper.  Later when

his body was found, they discovered in his pocket an oilskin wrapped will which

he had written along with a final letter, the few minutes before the Brother

Jonathan went down.

	There are but a few of the people who lost their lives when the Brother

Jonathan was wrecked.

	Bodies washed ashore for days, and were recovered from Humboldt Bay to the

mouth of the Rouge River in Oregon.  The bodies that were recovered near

Crescent City were buried in a common grave but many were buried where they were

found.  Perhaps I should have said that many were buried in a common grave. 

These were the bodies of the unidentifiable.