(When LaVerne Larson's notebook came to us, it was not in this order. Many things had been added and maybe some lost. I have not cross checked the material against this Table of Contents. Please, consider it only a general guide to topics. JF, 1995) Table of Contents 1. HUMBOLDT COUNTY HISTORY SOURCES 1 2. BIOGRAPHIES (CLASS PROJECT) 4 CHARTIN, DERR, HALE, ROHNER, GIFT, SCHNAUBELT, CAROTHERS, LOGAN, McAULIFFE, CAPT. SMITH, TILLEY, MATTHEWS, MATHESON 3. FORTS OF THE WEST 20 4. THE SCHOONER THAT CAME HOME-C.A.THAYER 23 5. VESSELS BUILT BY H.D. BENDIXEN ON HUMB.BAY 29 6. MILITARY CAMPSITES AND FORTS-H.C. INDIAN WAR-MAP 32 7. ANCIENT HUPA VILLAGES - MAP 33 8. FORT HUMBOLDT, from MANSFIELD ON THE CONDITION OF W. FORTS 34 9. LEGEND OF UR-LUR-UR 36 10. END OF THE INDIAN WAR from HUMB. TIMES 1859 37 11. LETTER TO MAJ. DRUM FROM COL. LIPPITT 39 12. HIST. RECORD OF VESSELS OF PACIFIC LUMBER CO. 42 13. THE WILLAPA-1908-SKETCH 47 14. THE STEAM SCHOONER, from THE ENGINE POWERED VESSEL 48 15. STEAMER ST. PAUL WRECKED OFF CAPE MENDOCINO-PHOTO 49 16. THE NAMING OF CAPE MEDOCINO-from Cart.of.N.W.COAST 50 17. HUMBOLDT HARBOR LIGHT -H.C.H.S. NEWSLETTER 51 18. HISTORICAL SHIP DISASTERS OF CALIF. COAST 55 19. THE CHILKAT'S CAT 57 20. NEEDLES AND SAILS 58 21. THE STORY OF HUMBOLDT TIMES, First Hundred Years 59 22. JOURNALISM IN HUMBOLDT CO.-PAPERS IN CO. 1854-82 61 23. CLASS PROJECT-OLD HOUSES 66 ATKINSON, POINSETT, NIXON 24. REDWOODS AWAY 75 25. Eureka's Chinese tragedy - outline 78 26 .Pioneer saloon - Eureka sketch 79 27. Ancient Yurok world - map 80 28. Reflections - on Sticky Flypaper 81 29. Kingdom of Quivira, City at Cape Mendocino 83 30. Sea Otter ships at Trinidad - outline + map 88 31. The Lumber Town 89 32. Scraps of early Humboldt history, Fort Humboldt 94 33. McKinley Statue - Speegle 96 34. World's largest Madrone tree 97 35. Hist. occurrences during growth of a Redwood - Chart 100 36. How Humb. became a California county - maps 101 37. Early Townships in Humb. Co 1853+1874 102 38. Founders + Founding of Eureka 103 39. Early Humboldt Co. government 104 40. Humboldt Co's first supervisors + districts 105 41. California Counties - How they began 107 42. The American Indian - from the Indian Historian 109 43. The Hupa Indian - from Humboldt times 1954 111 44. Logging with oxen -Mendocino + Humb 116 45. Coopers' mills - diagram 122 46. The arrival of Steam Power in the Redwoods 123 47. "Annie" and "Mary" 124 48. Illustration - Metropolitan Shay #1 wreck 125 49. - The Poison Oak 126 50. Issues in Mendocino War 127 50. Naming of Cape Mendocino 129 50. Mad River's big logs 129 51. Finale for half-way house (Trinidad) 130 52. Map - Route of Josiah Gregg party 132 53. The schooner that came home - C.A.Thayer 133 54. Highway site yields oldest artifact yet 139 55. The Humboldt Jonah who went to sea in a house 140 56. How old is California Man? 142 57. Mr. Astor's big slice of tree 143 58. Letter to "My Dear Daughter"-Mark Leeds, Trinidad 1835 144 60. Beginnings of an Educational System - from Owen Coy 146 61. Map of Humboldt schools in 1875 149 62. Map - Dogholes of the Redwood Coast 150 63. Map - Landings 151 64. New business locations - Eureka 1892 152 65. Saga of the Ethel Zane 154 66. Humboldt Bay jetties 157 67. Redwood lumber in Europe - 1885 159 68. The Beach Road (Centerville) 160 69. An emigrant slips into Arcata 163 70. Times and Life of Porous Plaster 167 71. Port Kenyon - on the Salt River - map 175 72. Map - The Race for the "Lost Bay" 1850 176 73. Order of settlement - Humboldt 1850 177 74. Voting for a county seat - 1855 178 75. Map - Sea Otter Country 179 76. Chart - Ships of Discovery 180 77. Humboldt Bay rediscoverers 181 78. Thomas Peterson's Little River shipyard 182 Notes from Guinn's Coast Counties, 1904 p. 228 The Indians kept up hostilities, rendering travel and traffic unsafe on the borders of Humboldt, Klamath and Trinity counties. Governor Stanford in 1863 issued a proclamation for the enlistment of six companies of volunteers from the six northwestern counties of the state. These recruits were organized into what was known as the Mountaineer battalion Lieutenant-Col. Stephen G. Whipple in command. A number of Indian tribes united and a desultory warfare began. The Indians were worsted in nearly every engagement. Their power was broken and in February, 1865, fragments of the different tribes were gathered into the Hoopa Valley reservation. The Mountaineer battalion in what was known as the "Two Years ' War" settled the Indian question from Shasta to the sea for all time. p. 235 List of American military governors of California with date of appointment : Commodore Robert F. Stockton, 1846; Col. John C. Fremont, January, 1847; Gen. Stephen W. Kearny, March 1, 1847; Col. Richard B. Mason, May 31, 1847; Gen. Bennet Riley, April 13, 1849. American governors elected; Peter H. Burnett, 1849. John McDougal, Lieutenant governor, became governor on the resignation of P/ H/ Burnett in January. 1851; John Bigler 1851; John Bigler, 1853; J. Neely Johnson, 1855; John B. Weller, 1857; M. S. Latham 1859; John G. Downey, lieutenant-governor, became governor in 1859 by election of Latham to United States senate; Leland Stanford, 1861; Frederick F. Low, 1863; Henry H. Haight, 1867; Newton Booth 1871; Romualdo Pacheco, lieutenant-governor, became governor February, 1875, On election to Booth to the United States senate; William Irwin, 1875; George C. Perkins, 1879; George Stoneman, 1882; Washington Bartlett, 1886; Robert W. Waterman, lieutenant- governor, became governor September 12, 1887, upon the death of Governor Bartlett; H. H. Markham, 1890; James H. Budd, 1894; Henry T. Gage, 1898. p. 246 Eureka's pop. in 1880 was 2, 639; in 1890, 4, 858; in 1900, 7,327. p.413 Removing to Centerville about four miles from Ferndale, he (Arnold Berding) established a general store, which he conducted with success until 1865. AT THAT TIME THERE WAS NO WAGON ROADS IN THAT VICINITY THE INHABITANTS WERE COMPELLED TO FOLLOW THE ANCIENT INDIAN TRAILS IN TRAVELING FROM ONE SECTION OF THE COUNTY TO THE OTHER. Having made application to the government for the establishment of a post office in that village, he received the appointment as first postmaster, his commission being granted by President Lincoln, and served as the first and last postmaster of the place. p.415 In 1900 Dr. Jay L. McLaren located in Eureka and started a small private hospital. (he had previously organized and established a very successful medical college at Saginaw Valley, Mich. but left there on account of overwork and worry undermining his health.) He afterward organized a company, composed as himself and five other physicians, and founded the Sequoia Hospital and Sanitarium, of which he has since been president. The institution is managed by a board of directors, and its patronage, already large, is constantly increasing. Dr. McLaren pays particular attention to diseases of women and abdominal surgery. p. 259 "Coast Counties" JOHN VANCE-----He was born 1819 in Nova Scotia, and died in 1892 in Eureka, while serving a second term as mayor.----At the age of sixteen he began learning the trade of a carpenter and shipbuilder --- apprenticeship with father four years. Contractor and builder in Roxbury, Mass. for ten years. Following the tide of immigration to the western coast in 1849, he took passage on the steamer Ohio, which was confiscated at Havana. The passengers subsequently proceeded on the Georgia to the Isthmus, which they crossed on foot, afterwards taking the steamer Panama, which arrived in San Francisco in the early part of 1850. -----In February, 1852, with a party of enterprising pioneers, Mr. Vance located on Humbolt bay, and from that time until his death was actively identified with the development of this section of the county, being a prime mover in the establishment of industrial enterprises of all kinds. As a carpenter and millwright he assisted in converting the steamer Santa Clara into a sawmill, and a short time later came near losing his life from injuries received in the wreck of the Mexican, near the site of the present lighthouse. Soon after hid recovery, forming a partnership with Capt. E. Tomlinson under the name of John Vance & Co., he purchased the general store of Pickard & Long, and embarked in the mercantile business. That he realized even in those pioneer days the value of judicious advertising may be shown from a clipping taken from the first issue of the Humbolt Times, on September 2, 1854, namely: JOHN VANCE & CO. Front Street Have on hand an assortment of groceries and provision, such as flour, pork, beef, lard, butter, hams, codfish, sugar, coffee, beans, whisky, brandy, buckwheat flour, tobacco, starch, soap, candles, potatoes, window glass, farming utensils, crockery, nails, hardware, etc., which they offer for sale at the lowest prices. J. V. & Co. are daily expecting a large and complete assortment of goods suitable to this market. John Vance E. Tomlinson. Mr. Vance subsequently turned his attention to lumbering, buying the mill at the foot of F street, which had been built by Ridgeway & Flanders, who were not successful in operating it. The partner of Mr. Vance, Mr. Garwood of San Francisco, was lost on the steamer Merrimac, and he continued his milling and logging business alone. The manufacture of prices of lumber, however, was not a profitable enterprise for many years, the prices being so low that many companies failed. With persistency of purpose, Mr. Vance retained his interests, wisely investing his money in timber tracts, eventually becoming the owner of thousands of acres of the finest standing redwoods to be found in the county, In the midst of this tract, in 1875, Mr. Vance erected a sawmill on Mad river, the plant having a capacity of about forty thousand feet per day, and for a number of years produced some of the most choice clear redwood lumber on the coast. He also owned and operated a mill in Eureka, carrying on a very remunerative business in this line for many years. For the transportation of the products of his two mills, Mr. Vance had four vessels built, the Uncle John, Oceania Vance, Lizzie Vance, and the Sparrow, which carried lumber to the principal coast markets. Through his energy redwood was exported to foreign markets, his lumber trade with Tahiti, Australia, South America, Central America and the Hawaiian Islands having been extensive. In 1872 he erected the Vance Hotel, a large and handsome block, which under the management of Edgar H. Vance, Mr. Vance's son, was for years the leading hotel of the city. One of the original stockholders of the Eel River & Eureka Railroad, Mr. Vance served as its first president, and was again made president of the company in 1887. He wisely encouraged, and generously supported, all beneficial projects, and contributed liberally to public and private charities. He lent such financial assistance to the Humbolt Times that the paper became a success. In 1888, Mr. Vance was elected mayor of Eureka,-------re-elected to the same position in 1890 for a term of two years. Before the expiration of the term, however, he was called from his earthly labors. Under his wise administration many improvements were made in the city, streets being graveled the sewer system extended, an additional number of lights provided, the city limits extended, and its prosperity in every way greatly enhanced. ----The Vance hotel, which has been enlarged and remodeled within a few years is owned by his son Edgar H. Vance, who leases it, and resides in Oakland. The younger son, S. A. Vance, is a resident of Los Angeles, his health demanding a warmer climate. GUINN p.425 JOHN M. VANCE. ----A son of George Vance and a nephew of John Vance, both deceased, he was born in the province of New Brunswick , 1845. Coming to California with his parents in 1866, and locating in Humboldt county, he soon set about to develop his mechanical ingenuity by learning the trade of millwright, which he followed for a number of years. His subsequently engaged in the commission and shipping business in partnership with his brother-in-law, Thomas Baird, after which he became superintendent of the mechanical department of the Dolbear & Carson lumber mill. His sturdy industry, energy and ability attracted attention and won the confidence of his uncle, who, during his last illness, in 1892, sent for him and placed in his charge the care of his vast railway, timber and milling interests. Irvine p.313 THOMAS CARR.--a native of Belfast, Ireland, After having made his home at Weaverville, Trinity county, from 1852 to 1868, in the latter year Mr. Carr removed to Humboldt county and settled in Eureka, where he was a pioneer carriage-maker. From that time until his death he was identified with the county seat. It was his good fortune to retain to the last his mental and physical faculties. His clear memory enabled him to recall many thrilling events of the 50's and frequently he narrated early happenings that had much to do with the shaping of ultimate achievements in the west.-----------Through his marriage to Anne Hodgins he became the father of five children, namely: Elizabeth H., Mary A., Emma G., Edward Baker and Kate L., Mrs. Harpst, of Eureka. the first-named makes her home with Mrs. Harpst, and the others are deceased. Irvine p.341 PATRICK QUINN.-A resident of Humboldt county for almost fifty years, Patrick Quinn has always been classed among the substantial citizens of his section, and he may well be proud of the results he has to show for an industrious career. He owns and operates a large ranch in Table Bluff township, and in improving this property has not only made a competence for himself and provided a living for his family, but has been a unit in the advancement and progress of the whole region. A man of his sturdy qualities, energy and ambition is a desirable acquisition to any community, and his useful life has brought him respect from all his neighbors and associates everywhere. Mr. Quinn's parents, John and Catherine (Whalen) Quinn were natives of Ireland, the father born in County Waterford, and both are now deceased. When a young man John Quinn came to America, bringing one of his brothers with him, and they settled in Ontario, Canada, where they soon founded a mill. They spent the remainder of their lives in that county. Patrick Quinn was born in Ontario in 1842 and grew to manhood there, remaining in his home town until he came to California, in the year 1865. The long journey was made by way of the Isthmus of Panama, and he landed at San Francisco in February, 1866. During the next four months he worked in a sawmill in Marin county. Then he joined fortunes with James Tierney, with whom he purchased a ranch on Salmon Creek, in Humboldt county, Cal., paying $3,500 for the property. For several years they operated it in partnership, until 1872, in which year Mr. Quinn bought the property he has ever since occupied, in Table Bluff township, this county. During the forty years and more of his residence there he has continued the work of improvement steadily, with the result that the property has increased wonderfully in value, both as an agricultural and a real estate proposition. It compromises three hundred and fifteen acres of particularly productive soil, which Mr. Quinn has cultivated wisely, as its present condition shows. From the beginning he has been very successful, and he has combined dairying with general farming very profitably, keeping forty fine milk cows. His chief agricultural products are large quantities of grain. Through his industry and thrift Mr. Quinn has become one of the well-to-do- farmers of his section, and he is still looking after his affairs with his customary interest and fore-sight enjoying his work with the satisfaction which comes when perseverance has had its rewards. Aside from several years' service as a school trustee he has taken no direct part in the administration of the local government, though he has always used his influence for the encouragement of progressive movements and to uphold high standards of citizenship. Politically he has been a stanch supporter of the democratic party, but has limited his activities to the casting of his ballot. On February 5, 1872, Mr. Quinn was united in marriage with Miss Mary McNulty, who was born in Texas, daughter of Owen McNulty, with whom she came to California in 1854. Mr. McNulty, a well known citizen in his day, owned a fine ranch in Humboldt County which he carried on up to the time of his death. Ten children have been born to Mr. and Mrs. Quinn: Catherine, who is the wife of A. C. Buxton, of Fortuna; John F., an attorney, in successful practice at Eureka; William J., a physician, who took his professional course at Cooper Medical College, San Francisco; Owen P., residing at the old home; Alice M., a school teacher; Irwin F., an attorney; Frederick A., a graduate of St. Mary's College; Albert E., head time-keeper for the Pacific Lumber Company; Harold J., a student in Jefferson Medical College, Philadelphia, and a graduate of the University of California; and Evelyn M. Mrs. Quinn has naturally been interested in the educational advantages of the neighborhood, feeling that the early training of children is vitally important, and she has shown her willingness to cooperate-operate with her neighbors in securing the best privileges obtainable by several years service as a member of the school board of Clark district. Irvine p.507 CHARLES I. HARPST.-One of the well known lumbermen of Humboldt county, and one who has been very actively associated with the development of the lumber industry in this section of the state, is Charles I. Harpst, who at present is engaged in farming, and owns a handsome place adjoining Arcata on the west, where he makes his home. He has been associated with the lumber business since coming to California in 1882, until within the past few years, when he retired from active participation in commercial lines, and took up farming. He has been interested in various well known lumber companies in the country. In his business undertakings he has always been very successful, and throughout the country he is known as a man of reliability and integrity of character. Mr. Harpst is a native of Ohio, having been born in Hancock county, twelve miles from the town of Findlay, on his father's farm, May 29, 1861. His father was Edward Harpst, a native of Pennsylvania, born in York county, March 28, 1822, and died October 19, 1908. He lived with his parents in York county until he was eight years of age, when they removed to Franklin county, Ohio. Here he attended school for a short time, but spent the greater part of his time working on the farm. For a few years he followed the carpenter's trade, and later as a farmer he was very successful. In 1894 he made a trip to California to visit his son and other relatives here, remaining for a year. He returned to Ohio and resided there until the time of his death. The mother of the present worthy citizen of Arcata was Sarah N. (Brown) Harpst, a native of Pennsylvania, born April 5, 1822. She was the eldest child in the family, and was married in Franklin county, Ohio, early in 1850. She became the mother of six children, four of whom are living at the present time, two residing in California and two in Ohio. The mother is still living. The early life of Charles I. Harpst was spent on his father's farm in Hancock county, Ohio. He attended school in his district until he was nineteen, assisting in the meantime with the farm work, and remaining at home until he came to California in October, 1882. He came direct to Humboldt county, where he had relatives living, and soon after his arrival he went to work for a relative in the Harpst & Spring shingle mill. Within a short time he was advanced to the position of foreman of the mill, which position he held until 1886. At that time he took charge of a dairy ranch for this same company, occupying this position for some four years. In 1900 he gave up the care of the dairy farm to engage in business with the new company known as the Union Shingle Manufacturing Company. Mr. Harpst was manager of this company continuously until it closed down in 1911, having worked up all the available timber. During this time he was also interested in the Bayside Lumber Company, being one of the original board of directors, and continuing in this capacity as long as he retained his interests in the company. He sold his interests in the Bayside Lumber Company four years ago. Another of the industries in which he has been interested and to which he has given material support is the Devlin Tannery Company of Arcata, of which he is a stockholder and a director. In all his business undertakings Mr. Harpst has been unusually successful, and he has displayed much marked ability as a business managers. Since he retired from active business pursuits, Mr. Harpst has taken up general farming. In November, 1909, he removed with his family to the home place of thirty-eight acres, all improved land, adjoining Arcata, and here he has resided since. He is especially informed on all the details of farming, this having been the training of his boyhood, and his earliest business ventures having been in this field, so has met with his customary success in this last undertaking. The marriage of Mr. Harpst took place in Arcata, July 16, 1895, uniting him with Miss Nora Seaver, a native of Shelter Cove, Humboldt county, Cal. She is the daughter of Daniel A. and Anna (Briggs) Seaver pioneers of California. Her father came to the coast by of the Isthmus of Panama in the early mining excitement, and located in Humboldt county, where he resided for many years. Mrs. Harpst is the mother of one child, a son, Charles W. Harpst. Both Mr. and Mrs. Harpst are well known socially in Arcata, where they have a wide circle of friends. Mr. Harpst is prominent in fraternal circles having made Mason in Arcata Lodge No.106, F. & A. M., of which is a past master; he is also a member of Humboldt Chapter No. 52, R. A. M., and of Eureka Commandery No. 35,K. T.; also of Oakland Consistory and Islam Temple, A. A. O. N. M. S. He is also a member of Anniversary Lodge No. 85, I. O. O. F., Arcata, of which he is a past grand. Politically he is a Progressive Republican, but locally he is a independent voter, Preferring to the men whom he deems best fitted for the various offices. Irvine p.550 JOHN HARPST.-The decade following the discovery of gold in California was characterized by great activity in prospecting throughout practically every section of the state. As early as 1850 parties of prospectors had explored the country between the head waters of the Trinity and Klamath rivers and the coast, finding sufficient presence of gold to justify the operating of mines for a considerably later period. When John Harpst, a native of Ohio, born in 1839, came to California in 1857, at the age of eighteen years, he sought these mines Trinity county and for some time followed the search for gold at Canadian Bar. When in the fall of 1858 Governor Weller called for volunteers to take the field against hostile Indians in the Western part of Trinity county and the Eastern part of Humbolt county, he was among the men who promptly enrolled their names and offered to do service. Under Capt. I. T. Messing he took part in a campaign that lasted through the of 1858-1859. A number of serious engagements made the winter memorable. In one of these battles a bullet from the Indian lines pierced the left breast of Mr. Harpst and inflicted a serious wound, but youth and powers of endurance enabled him to quickly recover from the effects of the injury. After the close of the campaign, having seen the advantages of soil and other resources offered by Humbolt county, Mr. Harpst decided to take up residence here. A few years later he became a partner with O. H. Spring in the mercantile business in Arcata, which in an early day was a noteworthy rival of Eureka, although the latter, selected as the county-seat in 1856 and incorporated as a city at the same time, soon outstripped all competitors. Near the head of humbolt bay he engaged in lumber operations with Mr. Spring and James Gannon. Later, with these men, together with D. J. Flanigan and T.F.Brosnan, he founded and operated the Union mill on the bay shore near Eureka. A store and shingle mill were afterward established at Bayside and lumbering together with quarrying operations continued on a very large scale for a long period of profitable years. Eventually Mr. Harpst retired from the heaviest of his responsibilities and for a considerable period before his death, which occurred February 19, 1906, he had enjoyed a rest from business cares. In September of 1896 he married Miss Kate L. Carr, who was born in Weaverville, Trinity county, Cal., the daughter of Thomas Carr, a pioneer of this state, whose sketch may be found elsewhere in this volume. Mrs. Harpst was reared in Eureka and still lives in this city. Lately she has built a large and beautiful residence on the corner of Huntoon and D streets. She has given much care to her gardens, in which she takes much pride, and as the result of her efforts she has one of the most attractive places in the city. Fraternally Mr. Harpst belonged to the Masons and Elks . In the former he had been associated with the blue lodge and chapter in Eureka, a member of the Golden Gate commandery, K. T., and Islam Tempse, A. A. O. N. M. S., of San Francisco. In the circles of early settlers, where he was best known, his name stood as a synonym for honor, while in his general circle of acquaintances, especially among younger generations, he was looked up to as a pioneer who had many privations in the period of the Indian troubles and who had merited the best that later years could bestow upon him. Irvine p.615 CIPRIANO MARK BERNARDI.- One of the enterprising and progressive young men engaged in dairying in Humboldt county is Cipriano M. Bernardi, who, though of foreign birth, has brought to his work in this country the energy and ability which America is always glad to recognize among her citizens. A native of Lordino, Canton Ticino, Switzerland Mr. Bernardi was born August 16, 1871, son of Natale and Marcelina Bernardi, both of whom died in their native canton. The father of Mr. Bernardi, was a painter and decorator by trade, spent much time in that line of work in Paris, where there are many fine examples of his skills remaining. Of the six children in the family, Cipriano was the youngest, and grew up in Lodrino, receiving a good grammar and high school education, graduating from the later school in 1888. The next year he came to San Francisco, Cal. having been attracted hither by the good reports from his sister, Mrs. Helena Biasca, and her husband, who were dairying at Capetown, Humboldt county. Soon after coming to this county Mr. Bernardi secured employment on a diary farm from Dr. Felt, which he conducted for twelve years with a herd of sixty cows. The bull, which was brought from Highland, N.Y, was sired by Noble Oakland, the grandsire being golden Jolly. Mr. Bernardi sold full blooded male and female Jersey cattle in different parts of California and has sent about fifteen head to Honolulu, always obtaining good prices because his stock is the highest strain. For some years he has sold milk to retailers in Eureka, in which city he is now starting a new milk route. The marriage of Mr. Bernardi took place in Eureka, April 30, 1905 his wife having formerly been Celia Marcelina, Emory, Lloyd and Archie. The political interests of Mr. Bernardi are with the Republican party, and in fraternal circles he is know as member of the knights of Maccabees. Irvine pg 769 JAMES D. HENRY BROWN.- It is difficult for the present generation to realize the marvelous changes that have taken place in California since the discovery of gold in 1849. Accustomed to rapid growth and stupendous development which oftentimes change a wilderness into a thriving city within so brief a period of time that one feels certain Aladdin and his fabled lamp must be near, yet this change carries to the mind of the no adequate conception of that other and greater change which transformed the of the Sierra Madres and the coast range, not only from a wilderness in purely physical sense, but which has altered the character of it's civilization as well. This fact can only be comprehended by such men as JAMES D. HENRY BROWN, who being one of the early pioneers, coming into the new gold fields when the rush was wild and the excitement keen, lived through such scenes as will never again be enacted on the continent of north America, and scarcely on the face of the globe. The life of mining in towns was wild and lawless; adventurers and men of unrestrained passions, with only a lust for blood and gold, had rushed from all over the world into placer mines Fortunes were made and lost in a day and night. Gambling was the lure on every hand; villagence committees strove in vain to enforce law and order. In many parts of the state the Indians were hostile, skulking in the shadow of the woods while the farmer followed his plow or herdsmen tended cattle, or again stealing upon the peaceful cabin in the woods where the wife and cared for her babes. J. D. H. Brown (cont.) ...by the men themselves. Being one of the youngest members of the party, some forty pounds were allotted as the share of young Brown, and this he carried on his shoulders from Arcata to Weaverville. Arriving in Weaverville, they engaged in mining for a short time, and on February they left that point and located the salmon river, where they continued their search for gold. The weather was extremely bad, and they were finally forced to turn back to Trinity. A Heavy snow storm overtook the party, which numbered sixty in all, and all perished save a group of six men of which Mr. Brown was one. It was on this occasion that they were obliged to eat their pack-mules and carry their own out fits out of the mountains, suffering almost unbearable hardships on their trip. Arriving in trinity, Mr. Brown remained their until September, 1851, at which time he went down to San Francisco, and from there set sail for South America, locating eventually Greytown, Nicaragua, where he opened a hotel, which he successfully for thirteen months. There is no land like California to this young adventurer, however, and in 1853 he returned to San Francisco, going from there to Hangtown, where he again engaged in mining. Later that same year he went into Humboldt county and went to work in the lumber camps, where he soon opened a blacksmith shop in Eureka. The following year he sold his interests there and removed to Kneeland Prairie, where, in partnership with Albert R. Hitchcock, he engaged in stock-raising. At this time the Indians were particularly troublesome, on several occasions marauding parties swept down on the settlers, driving off their cattle, destroying property and killing many unprotected families. Men worked with guns in reach of their hands, the avenging party of white men never failed to follow the trial of the savages to inflict deserved punishment, and although he was engaged in many a sharp skirmish, it is a noteworthy fact that he escaped without even a scratch. After a few years on the Elk river this restless pioneer sold his interests there, which then consisted of a fine ranch and two hundred ten acres, one hundred of which he had cleared and put under cultivation, and moved to Samoa, where he again followed the occupation of farming and stock-raising. Later he spent ten years in Oregon, locating on a farm at Jacksonville, after which he again returned to Humbolt County, settling on a ranch at Mad River, which he had purchased some time before. Here he erected a tiny log cabin and for forty years followed the life of a fisherman, sometimes leasing parts of his fishery to others, but generally keeping his entire preserve for himself. He has within recent years retired from all active occupations, and is living quietly in Arcata, enjoying the fruits of years of honest toil. His wife, who was his companion on many of his wanderings, died several years ago, and he is now alone save for his children, several whom are living in and around Arcata. Mr. Brown is the type of man who is fast passing from the stage of action, and when once they have gone, there will never again, on this continent, at least, be another generation like them. They are the product of an earlier civilization, their characters shaped by the condition under which they lived and the hard ships through which they passed. They are to be honored while they are yet with us, and deeply reverently mourned when they are gone. Guinn p. 939 -----THE HUMBOLDT COUNTY HOSPITAL AND POOR HOUSE may be said to be in every way a model institution under the able management of David H. McFarlan, who has been its chief official since February 1, 1900, having been reappointed from year to year and is now on his fifth year. The main building was erected in 1892 and is a two story frame structure, with solid six-inch plank walls. There are fifty-four rooms, of which there are two general sleeping rooms, 30x60 feet each, an operating room, 12x20 feet, a surgical ward 20x30 feet, and a smoking room for the men 20x30 feet. While the second floor is devoted to women and the first floor to men, there is a general dining room containing six tables. On an average there are about sixty-one inmates in the institution, and aside from those incapacitated by illness, there is a healthy, happy lot of old people, many still quite active. Realizing that work is one of the best panaceas for human woes, Mr. McFarlan has encouraged the inmates to spend much of their time in outdoor employments, with the result that the hospital boasts a line garden of fifteen acres, out of which $1,300 profit was made in 1902 and $1,700 in 1903, besides liberally supplying the tables of the hospital. The institution makes its own gas and is well lighted and heated, the woodshed holding nearly four hundred cords of wood. Since his occupancy of the office of superintendent, Mr. McFarlan has been indefatigable in his efforts to ameliorate the condition of those compelled to live upon the bounty of others, and has made many needed improvements in the building. His personal care for the inmates, has been highly appreciated by them, as well as those in charge of the institution, and the general public, and it is confidently expected that the position is his for as long a term as he cares to fill it. The official relationships between himself and his superiors, as well as those under his authority, have always been most cordial. Henry Smith is steward and Drs. C. O. and C. C. Falk attending physicians, in all of whom he has faithful assistants in the carrying out of his plans. The location on Harrison avenue is a very desirable one, the building standing on a site of twenty acres, which is constantly growing in value. -----Mrs. McFarlan is matron of the institution, giving to the comfort of the inmates her personal attention. p.956 THADDEUS L. LOOFBOURROW--M. D. Born Feb. 20, 1867 in Newton, Iowa, of Scotch ancestry. In 1890 was graduate from Rush Medical College, at Chicago. Came to Eureka in 1895 , is one of the owners and physicians of the Sequoia Hospital and Sanitarium. p.1068 Dr. William H. Wallace, was one of the founders of the Sequoia Hospital in Eureka in 1903, and has been actively identified with its management. p. 1422 SEQUOIA HOSPITAL. The institution known as Sequoia Hospital, located in Eureka, is one of the most perfectly equipped institutions of its kind in the west, and the first modern hospital to be established in northern California. It was founded in 1903 by Dr. J. L. McLaren, with the following physicians and surgeons of Eureka as co-incorparators: Dr. William H. Wallace, Dr. Rae Felt, Dr. Harold G. Gross, Dr. C. O. Falk and Dr. C. C. Falk. Subsequently Dr. T. L. Loofbourrow, Dr. A. M. Smith and Dr. E. J. Hill became stockholders, and upon March, 1904, his interest was sold to Dr. O. W. Sinclair and Dr. G. N. Drysdale. The Sequoia Hospital opened its doors April 1, 1903. It was established principally for emergency work, but is gradually outgrowing that field and is devoted to general work. It has a modern, splendidly equipped room, and all the appliances usually to be found in up-to-date hospitals in the larger cities. p. 1453 Grace E., daughter of pioneer Humboldter (1852) of Ferndale, married Thomas Ferrel, but is now deceased. Irvine p.1223 HUGH B. STEWART has been engaged in educational work in his entire life, choosing it as his life work as a student in the high school, and since that time all his activities have been carried on with that end in view, his aim being to acquire the latest methods for the instruction of pupils in the public schools. A native son of Humboldt county, HUGH B. STEWART was born in Eureka, March 21, 1878, the son of E.J. and Caroline S.(Dresser) STEWART, natives respectively of Quebec and Maine. The father came to Humboldt county in the early 70's. He followed the lumber industry principally as tallyman in the old Jones mill and afterwards in the Vance mill. He died in 1881, when his son Hugh was only three years of age. His widow some years afterwards was married to T.J. Alverson, and after this marriage she continued to make her home in Eureka until shortly before her demise, having gone to San Francisco on account of her health, and there she died, March 21, 1891. Of her first marriage were born three children: JD, a resident of Walnut Creek, Cal., Hugh B., of this review; and E.J., JR., tallyman for Dolbeer-Carson lumber company, in Eureka. The three children born of the second union are: Edward R., residing in Haywards, Cal.; Ruth, Mrs. J.A. Cummings, of Eureka; and Caroline, Mrs. Robert Wilson, of Centralia, Wash. Hugh B. Stewart, who was reared in Eureka, was orphaned at thirteen years of age, after which he lived with his maternal grandmother. When he had finished his studies in the grammar schools, he entered the Eureka High School, from which he was graduated in 1897. Obtaining a teacher's certificate, he immediately began his career as a teacher in the Bull Creek District, after which he taught in the Glendale District and the Myers District, and then began teaching in the Eureka Schools. During that time, ten years, he was principal of Grant, Lafayette, Washington, and Jefferson schools, respectively. In January, 1916, with one instructor. Mr. Stewart has continued taking advanced courses with different educational institutions and he is now doing work in the Humboldt State Normal School. The marriage of Mr. Stewart occurred in Eureka, February 21, 1909, uniting him with Miss Georgia A. McLean, a native daughter of Eureka, and they had 3 children, Esther, Byron, and Janet. Fraternally he was made a Mason in Humboldt Lodge No. 79, F.&A.M., of which he is past master, and with his wife is a member of Arcata Capital Chapter No. 207, O.E.S. and he is also a member of Eureka Lodge No. 636, L.O.O.M. Irvine p.1229 to end of book ERNEST W. DIXON.-The superintendent of the Jacoby Creek stone quarries, above Bayside, Humboldt county, is Ernest W. Dixon. He was born at Elk City, Oregon, Mar.12,1878, she son of James E. and Mary [Hamar] Dixon, born in Missouri and Kansas respectively. The latter crossed the plains over the old Oregon trail with their parents to Oregon in 1845. The grandfather, J. E. Dixon, located and owned the Donation Land Claim of six hundred forty acres, the present site of Corvallis, Ore., while Grandfather James Hamar after-wards located on Yaquina Bay, Lincoln county, Ore. before the railroad was built. At the age of seventy-six he is now living retired on his old home place. The mother is demised. Ernest W.-------------as superintendent of the Jacoby creek quarries, of which he took charge in June, 1912. The quarries had just been opened has also been opened. The quarries are well equipped with the latest machinery, such as compressed air drills, the air being compressed by electric power. There are five mammoth derricks and two large cranes, which are operated by steam power. By this method it is possible to obtain the largest rock, and some of which Mr. Dixon has general supervision. It is by far the largest industry of its county, and some idea of its extent can be had when we state that two hundred men are employed by the company in the quarries and the transportation of the rock. ----- Mrs. Dixon was reared and educated in Oregon. They have two children, Newell and Wanda. MARTIN GROSS.-Foreman of the woods for the Northern Redwood Lumber Company of Korbel at Camp No. 12, and a resident of Gumboldt County since 1885, Martin Gross was born December 2, 1863, at Flekkefjord, Norway. His father was a native of Germany, but went to Norway, where he was superintendent of a manufacturing plant in Christians and until his death. Martin's mother was Martine Christensen, a native of Norway, where she was married and spent her entire life. Of her two children, Martin, the eldest, spent his childhood in Flekkefjord, receiving a good education in the public schools. When fourteen years of age, like the majority of the lads of that seaport town, he too went to sea, following it for six years and sailing to many foreign ports. On his last long voyage from Savannah to Liverpool in the barque St. Lawrence, owned by parties in Arndal, Norway, the ship was wrecked off the coast of Fleetwood, England, being lost, but the crew was saved. Returning to Norway, Mr. Gross followed the coasting trade for a time then concluded to come to America to try his luck in a new country. From San Francisco he came immediately to Eureka, arriving May 1, 1885, and went by stage to Trinidad, where he worked in the woods for Peter Hansen. After continuing with that employer for two years he was for one year with the Excelsior mill in Eureka, and then with Cutten & McDonald, shingle manufacturers, a year. Following this he accepted a position as foreman of the bolt camp with Ole Hansen at Walkers Point. During these years Mr. Gross purchased his present ranch of fifteen acres near Indianola, where he built a residence and improved the place with a family orchard. In 1901 he resigned his place with Mr. Hansen to accept a place with the Northern Redwood Lumber Company of Korbel as foreman of the woods, and has continued with the company ever since, being now in charge of Camp No. 12. Mr. Gross first married December 2, 1893, to Miss Mary Mullen, a native of County Cork, Ireland. At her death she left three children: Anna M., Martin E. and Ralph. Mr. Gross was married in Eureka Mary 10, 1901, to Miss Mathilda Nelson, also a native of Flekkefjord. After coming to the United States she spent nearly eight months in Wisconsin and in 1901 came to Eureka. Mr. And Mrs. Gross have one child, Edwin Selmar. Fraternally he was a member of Arcata Lodge No. 106, F. & A.M., and also a member of the Eureka Aerie No. 130, F.O.E., and the Sons of Norway. In religion the family are Lutherans, having been reared in that faith. In politics Mr. Gross is a stanch Republican. Guinn p.1480 Hon. Aristides J. Huests. "Traveling overland with his family, employing ox-team and prairie schooners for the purpose, he arrived in Sonoma county, Cal., in October, 1894. In June, 1850 he took up his residence in Humbolt county, where a career of exceptional usefulness, breadth and interest awaited him. He became the first county superintendent of schools, serving during the years 1856 and 1857, and during his term of office accomplishing what he aimed at - the establishment of the school system of the county. "Later he was elected county judge, and still later state assemblyman from Humbolt. p. 564 Mr. George Underwood was elected county superintendent of schools in the fall of 1902 . He was elected by a majority of 2000 votes, assumed his duties January 1, 1903. Irvine 1852 pg.66 A trail had been cut through from Trinidad to this point (12m. below Witchepec-Blackburn's ferry and stopping place.) Araid-body of father who was on his way from east Wintoons-a bold tribe in the high county Every Indian there Gongonther (Gunther) Island was killed 2/25/1860 over 2000 Indians. p.120 Quality of tanbark very highest-leather made by devhn's tannery (Arcata) took highest award at the worlds fair and other expositions. p121 High quality and variety of meals at logging mill cookhouses-better than at moist high class hotels. p125 pop. of Arcata is 2000. p138 Two trains daily to & from Eureka-auto stage Trinidad to Crescent city. p140 Carlotta-a summer resort-terminal of branch line connecting at Alton H.W.P. R.R. p946 Creameries-1915 Central Creamery Co. of witch Miner Creamery green Arcata was one united creamery the main creamery was at United creamery 1-at Arcata Bottoms Creamery 2 where Premium Creamery at Bayside. 948 United creameries Incorporated 1907-1914 record year: lost a million pounds of butter 1200 pounds a day casein per day or 159 tuns a year manager: Carl Fredriel Hensen father of Vern-an 200. 958 Concord stage-In the early part of 1976, Lewis L. McDaniel "bought a handsome Concord stage in SF and shipped it to Hum. Co. For service between Eureka and Arcata." (Firm known as McDaniel and Kirby) Continuing through 1876-1877. This was the second coach in the county. 970 Trinity Hospital- opened by Dr. George W. McKinnon in 1909.-20-5 beds and two permanent nurses. 994 John Hoffman, a Finn ship carpenter, first to make a home on Holmes Flat in 1907. Hallowed out a great redwood stump for cellar and storehouse, and on another, about 20 ft. high he mounted a windmill and reservoir. Pg.140 Jack London had came to Humb. to interest people in a book he wrote for purpose of bringing tourists here. Pg.149 Leigh H Irvine - managing editor of the Humboldt Times Pg.176 Brizards store constructed of stone from Jacoby creek quarries Pg.1004 Stump House - Rodney Burns Redwood novelty Co- established 1911, also mail order. one burl scaled over Ten Thousand board feet, (twenty five feet in circumference ,and eighteen feet in height) It was hollow -walls from 2 to 6 feet thick - grew on a tree 6 ft. in diameter) Pg.1016 Thompson's shingle mill at Bayside failed 1913 Pg.1046 Mary Helen Power (later Mrs. F.M. Brodrick ) taught her first year at Cedar Springs , Then the next five at Blue Lake. Pg. 578 John H. Bloemer- started Arcata Laundry in 1885. Pg. 690 Freeman Art Co. Established 1906 by Mrs. Emma B. Freeman,-drawing, painting, and photography. A work, portrait, published in Collier's Leslies, Sunset, - . State Library at Sacramento commissioned her to place entire collection of Indian pictures with them. Pg. 697 William O. Perry (Blocksburg and Alder Point) born 1855 in Sonora- engaged at age of 18 (1873) "As mail carrier and delivered the mails across the mountain trails long before there were any wagon roads for regular traffic, the country through which he road being wild and dangerous." Pg. 747 Dr. Jon. Clark. While assemblyman in 1876 introduced bill for completion of Kneeland Prairie and Round Valley wagon ranch. Pg. 781 Contractor Ambrose Foster built Minor Theatre and three stores for Minor in Arcata- also the hard wood booths and cases for Hum. Exhibit in PP.I.E. J.C. Bull Jr. took contract to build jetty to Humboldt p.1222 harbor - 2 million dollars - seven yrs - building -purchased into Bendixsen shipyards - sheriff 1875-76 p.347 Jasper Anderson - in partnership with his brother J.W. one winter" killed three hundred deer on Mad River, tanned the hides the next spring and manufactured them into gloves in Hydesville. The product sold in Humboldt County, where it was well received". p.359 The Union Labor Hospital in Eureka most modern in design representing $40,000 ( with its new improvements) "was built primarily for woods + sawmill men, but later the corporation decided to include those of other unions". The fee of $10 -entitles to all benefits of the hospital, including nursing, medical attention, board+ care. p.495 Chas A Roberts (1863 - 1964) + son drowned in shipwreck off Petrolia-son of pioneer William Roberts- William married Elizabeth Lambert of same wagon train - Parents of Sarah, wife of Otis Ellingwood of Washington. p.572 Nicholas J. Nilsen, Norwegian by birth, a carpenter "In 1912 he bought his present place on the historic site of old Fort Humboldt, where he owns seven lots, and where he has built a handsome, bungalow of seven rooms, with all modern improvements and conveniences. On this location Captain Grant was in command during the winter of 1853 - 54, Mr. Nilsen has also built a large dairy barn which is the most modern in scientific and sanitary construction, and which has accommodations for forty milch cows. . . . . This site is especially desirable for a home place, as it is within reach of Eureka by electric car service, and is on a high plateau overlooking Humboldt Bay, with a magnificent sweep of scenery". p.782 Christen Eskesen, Ferndale, owner of American Hotel has the agency for the Carnation automobile, and interested in advancing good roads movement. p.869 Excelsior mill was located on Gunther Island. - their woods at Freshwater. p.873 Humboldt Copper Mining Company, owned by fifteen prominent business and professional men of Eureka, George S. Shedden director, He was in the drug business. p.1150 " The night when the Chinese killed Kendal, which caused a riot and after a public meeting at Centennial Hall, the settlers rounded up the Chinese and locked up a number of them on account of other shootings that had taken place, on account of the unreliability of the Chinese, it was decided unwise to give them a trial, and all were ordered to be at the wharf at a certain hour, when they were transported from the county, since which time there have been no more of their race in the locality. This occurred on Feb.1,1885 about four hundred of these undesirable residents having been deported at that time," p.1148 Daughter of David Hufford, Orick, - Rosa, now Mrs. Ferril ( Mrs. Tom Ferril ! ) p.455 Humboldt Cooperage Co.-Est. 1903-115 men in factory, 25 in the woods. 7 mi. east of Arcata is stave bolt plant. Logs brought to landing , drag saw cuts into proper bolt lengths loaded on cars, brought over co. tracks to Essex, then by N.W. to Arcata plant, saved into staves + heading (Spruce + fir) shipped to S.F. to be put together into barrels for oils, asphaltum, sugar, butter, fish, fruit and pails for Arcata plant best equipped of it's kind in the U.S. Julius J. Khrohn, vice-pres. +gen. manager, came up from Calif. Barrel Co of S. F. p.326 Jesse N. Lentell- a leading civil engineer in this part of Calif. -accurate and reliable- made Humb. Co relief on map for P.P.I.E. 1915 at S.F. (now in Clark's Museum) Has state map and several county maps, railway + road surveys to his credit. Born Worcester, Mass. 1861- Father a Baptist minister. At 20 Farmed + taught school for awhile in Nebraska awhile. Return east to study civil engineering at Lebanon, Ohio. Came to Oakland Calif 1883. 1886 came to Eureka. Commissioned the resurvey city, fix grades + street lines, make first city sewer plant. Excellency resulting in his being city engineer for 11 yrs (simultaneously Co. surveyor 2 yrs.) Then laid out R. P. from Samoa to Little River. 1908 married Mrs. Frances Angus, teacher + writer, who was killed in an automobile accident in San Jose 1910. p.410 Schyler Clark, came to Humb. 1868- worked in woods and rafted logs from Arcata to Eureka for 8 yrs. Then invested in land to clear. 1911 Son, Walter Elgen. Clark took over mngnmt. of estate which included 120 acres of Fickle Hill(1915) being improved for pasture land and stock land and 160 acres of timber claim(on Fickle Hill?) p.187 Hon. Rufus F. Herrick - Not only of Revolutionary stock but claims descent from Leif Ericsson, the Norseman, "The Progenitor of the American branch was Henry, Heneric, or Herrick(variations of Eric) He was fifth son of Sir William Herrick, born 1604 in Beau Manor Hall, Leicester county, England and settled first in Mass. Rufus' grandfather Francis served forty years in Mass. Sonate. -Rufus born Ohio 1828- crossed planes 1850- lumbering business above Redwood City 1857, surveyed road from Los Gatos to Santa Cruz- raised a company + built a toll road(now a county road) Humb. Co. surveyor 11 years. For 15 yrs. was Dep. U.S. Surveyor, sectionizing many townships in the county engineered first iron track railroads for logging. Then in Indian service for the gov't. Ranch at Table Bluff. Died 1914 was father of Frank Herrick, for many years county surveyor. p.809 Guinn-coast counties "While he was in the army(served until 1865) he succeeded in having the major part of the Indians of this part of the county stationed at Fort Gaston. He and his wife invariably treated these untutored savages with great kindness, defending them and protecting their rights at all times, and whenever any of the tribe was sick doctored them, the Indians having every confidence in their powers. When Colonel Block attempted to make a treaty with the Indians they would not listen to them until Lieut. Herrick assured them that the Col. was honest in his work and fully entitled to make the treaty. Chief Big Jim who was the leader of the Indians in the valley, and Sir Nelta John of the mountain tribes, had many a chance to shoot Lieut Herrick, but refrained as they had a sincere liking for him and his wife. p. 1071 Kirk Minor Cullberg had logging operation at warren CR. 1881. p.1072 Flood of 1860 -Moxons ranch the only one on Arcata Bottoms not submerged. - 2 mi. west of Arcata. p. 1078 1873 Ephraim Turner followed logging in the Arcata bottoms lands. p. 1153 William Boyes - located at Prairie Cr. 1906. Besides ranching, kept a hotel called Elk Tavern, on account of a tame elk which Boyer kept + brought up a calf, place is called Elk Tavern Ranch, originally homesteaded by Andy Harris. p. 1158 Fred Stouder (his mother was killed when the carriage in which she was riding from Korbel to Arcata was struck by a train at the Mc Closkey railroad crossing) 1908 Fred retired from railroading joining and eventually taking over the repair shop on G St. (automobiles, motorcycles, and bicycles) he had set up for his son in 1902. 1915 "is agent for the Mitchell automobile plus various lines of bicycles + motorcycles plus a general line of sporting goods. Since 1911 he has run a stage line in the city (automobile) besides a line between Eureka + Korbel touching at Arcata, Blue Lake and intermediate points, (distance 24 miles). He had two seven-passenger cars and one five passenger car. Son also runs two cars on the same route. Schedule about a car an hour. p. 1164 1913 Ehreiser went into business at Hotel Trinidad. p. 1190 John C. Briceland purchased the old Collier place about 1889, the present site of Briceland. Before this a Hebrew, had a little store there, which Briceland, bought + enlarged + ran for 3 yrs. Later Briceland built hotel + also ran a large ranch. 1267 Isaac Minor-Mills at Glendale & Warren Creek. Daughter Bertha Augusta Minor married L.D. Graeter. 1270 Clarence John McConnaho-married Rose Cakasch-daughter Greta. 1288 Ulysses Jesse Noe-packing water for the log roads-Then became an adept water slinger, wetting the log roads. This was very particular work, and he soon became so proficient at it---so that he was never at a loss for a good position. P. 1289 Teddy Monette-French Canadian-came 1875--log pond--John Vance's Essex, then Samoa for Edgar Vance (successor to John). Edgar Vance sold to Hammonds invented devices for handling logs--using gill poke instead of jackscrew for unloading--Odd Fellows, Arcata. P. 441 Samuel Silkwood, an early contractor and builder in Eureka . Built numerous residences and business bldgs, also Union labor Hosp. About 1897, he began this business. Eureka Business Directory 1893-94 Frank Ziegler_barber, Vance House Shaving parlors, 124 G.St. Alex McCarlie Millman, Riverside res 1313 N.St Abe Barnwell Myrtle Ave.2402 1956-Propellers Pattern Maker Bills maternal Grandfather Alex McCarlie Mill man, Riverside Res. 1313 N St. Carson,Geo. Carson's mill, res 1229 Third St J ZIEGLER, New and Second Hand Furniture: 528 Fifth St. (the Sequoia 1912) P. Molitor (Palmtag & Molitor) liquor dealers 216 F.st res same Anvick K, carpenter 115 W Cedar st PETER DERR I was unable to find anything about Mr. Derr, but thought the fact he ''crossed the plains in 1849'' was interesting, for this was the same time Mr. Rohner came to California. This may have known one another if they came by stage. One fact which turned up in the search for Mr. Derr's story was that the Masonic cemetery in which he was buried was deeded to the Masonic Lodge in 1877 from Matt Parrott. The cemetery was not large. In 1906 another parcel of ground was deeded to the Masons. Possibly Masonic records may have somethang about him which I can continue searching for (Grave in Masonic Cemetery on Rohnerville Road) My Delight A. Barker On March 5, 1879, the Van Duzen at Bridgeville was at flood stage. Several men stood on the bridge watching the river. Suddenly a large log hit the bridge with tremendous force. The men ran for safety as the bridge began to collapse. Looking back they saw a small figure fall with the bridge into the raging river. Days later, the body of a little Johnny Hale was found. He is one of the few graves with markers in the Bridgeville cemetery on a hillside above the school house. --Elliot's History (1882) The following is a newspaper story about the tragedy: Bridgeville, March 7, 1879 "Being requested by some parties to send you a few lines in regard to the loss of the Van Duzen bridge on the 5th, and narrow escape of quite a number of person's, and the death of Mr. Hales's little boy, Johnny, about four years old, I herewith send you a few of the particulars: 'About four o'clock p.m. of the river was rising quite fast and was then high. Mr. Hale, Wm. Hale, Elmer Hale, and Johnny Hale, Mr. Coleman, Frank Shaw, John Thompson and Lincoln Albee went to the bridge as was the custom here to see how fast the water was coming up. They went out to the middle of the bridge and were all returning as they thought when all at once there was a terrific commotion like an earthquake, followed by a terrible crash, which caused a stampede, quick as thought, among the crowd. At this time Mr. Hale and Mr. Coleman thought of the little boy, turned and looked back. All behind them was falling plank, bridge timbers, and the terrible river in chaos, and away they all went for the bank on the double quick, with the bridge or what was left of it sliding into the mad stream as fast as the strong current could pull it from the bank, and the men fell in every conceivable shape at the end of the bridge as it left the bank. Some of the men were hurt when they fell to the rocks. However, little Johnny was gone.' P.S. The mail carrier, Mr. look, just found the body of Johnny Hale, ten miles below the bridge." Salmon Brown --By Ivy Mengel JOHNNY HALE Henry Rohner Old Rohnerville Cemetery A native of Wolfhaben, Canton Appenzell, Switzerland, he was born on September 18, 1829. When he was 15 years old he came to America, to make his first home in Evansville, Indiana. By the time word of the gold rush in the West reached young Henry, the news was too much for him not to want to join the movement. And, 1849 found him crossing the plains California Bound. He remained in the mines until 1852, when he decided to take what he had made, and to seek out a farm. It was this natural instinct which brought him to Humboldt County, not until, however, he had seen life in the roaring camps along the Salmon, at Sailor's Bar, and other historic points in Trinity County. Henry Rohner did not immediately go into farming, for he applied his printing knowledge to a job as a compositor on the Humboldt Times, then printed in Union. A desperado, Steve Drummond, who had invaded the shop, seeking out the editor, fired point-blank at Rohner, wounding him seriously. When he recovered, he opened a store in Rohnerville, the community which took his name for its own. In 1862, he purchased land from the Starr brothers, and later, when the Eureka and Eel River Railroad penetrated the area, Rohnerville's decline was forecast, and the future Fortuna became the new town. Henry Rohner led an active business life. He died on December 28, 1900 From: A Diamond Jubilee History "Fortuna-A Growing City Reflects" 1878-1953 By Delight Baker Isaac Gift 1821 /May 20, 1881 Isaac Gift was born in Philadelphia, Pa. where he was reared, later moving to Tiffin, Ohio, where he married Evelyn Overmier, a native of Ohio. Her father, Solomon Overmier, was also a Pennsylvanian and a Quaker, who crossed the plains to California in 1846. Isaac Gift moved from Ohio to Adair County, Iowa, where he became possessor of a beautiful farm on Nodaway bottoms. On May 12, 1864, with his family he started for the west, crossing the plains with ox teams and wagons. Solomon Overmier was head of the train. It was his second crossing. Two hundred miles west of Missouri river, while crossing the Platte River, got a wetting, and the Gifts and other members stopped to dry their clothes. Others of the party,however,went on without stopping. When the Gifts and Overmiers arrived near Fort Laramie they were shown forty new graves. On July 4, the train pushed on toward Green River. There they were surrounded by Indians and all of the little train would no doubt have been massacreed but for the wisdom of grandfather Overmier, who had experience and understood the Indian nature. Overmier had a long-stemmed pipe with a big bowl which he smoked from behind the wagon wheels, blowing smoke to the four winds. The Indian chief, after much hesitation, finally came down, threw away his arrows and implements of war and took a whifff of he Quaker's pipe, then gave a loud woop and all of the bucks mounted their ponies, swam the Green River and left the train in peace. The party continued on to Salt Lake City, where they traded their oxen for a span of mules and started for California. They did not succeed in crossing the desert before one of the mules laid down and died. Isaac Gift was a large, strong man, one who would not give up, so he arranged a rope and pulled against the remaining mule, carrying the neck yoke for forty-eight hours, while the boys and others rolled on the wheels until their shoulders bled, the drops falling on their bare feet; their shoes had given out and they could not replace them. To add to their suffering, they ran out of water and their tongues became parched; finally the remaining mule gave out. In the midst of their distress a man rode up from behind and kindly loaned his mule, and with the fresh animal they were able to arrive at Sand Springs, Nevada, with tongues parched and protruding. Soldiers stationed at the place kept them from drinking water and eating to excess, so all members of the party were saved. They then made their way on to Virginia City where Isaac Gift, being a millwright and carpenter by trade, found employment in the Golden Curry Mill at $10 per day. The family remained in that city until the fall of 1865, when they came with a freighting outfit (sixteen mule team with three big wagons) through the Sierras to Sacramento, where they boarded the boat Chrisopolis for San Francisco, and then on the steamer Del Norte to Eureka, arriving October 12, 1865. The first three years the family spent in Eureka, until 1868 when they moved to Iaqua, where Gift homesteaded 160 acres near a large, cool spring. After building his house he followed stock raising until he died in 1881. His wife continued to reside on the place until her death in 1903. Their family consisted of seven children. Source of Information: History of Humboldt County By Wendy Hulbert E. B. Schnaubelt Watchman Clarence A. Kelly shot and killed E. B. Schnaubelt at 2 a.m., May 22 at the shingle mill of the Lagoon Lumber Co. about three miles north of Trinidad where Kelly was guarding the plant from molestation. Four shots were fired by Kelly, the second taking effect in Schnaubelt's right breast on a level with his heart and causing his death a few minutes later. Deputy Coroner J. G. Dolsen of arcada held an inquest before the arrival of District Attorney, Kenith Newett, who was not informed of the shooting until about ten o'clock yesterday morning. That Schnaubelt was unarmed was shown when his pockets were searched and nothing was found. His visit to the mill which he formerly owned when it was run by the Humbolt Shingle Co. was to recover tools and lost machinery which he clamed belonged to him despite the fact that he had lost title to the property including the mill and land through litigation. Kelly testified and was corroborated by Henry Schnaubelt, the ten year old son of deceased that Schnaubelt was standing with empty hands at his side when he began firing. Schnaubelt went to Trinidad section from the Klamath River and organized the Humbolt Shingle Co. About ten years ago, a Eureka bank foreclosed on the property and then desposed of it to the Lagoon Lumber Co. It is said Schaubelt had been offered $5,000 if he would grant a clear tittle to share of the property when the foreclosure suit was started. In view of this he decited he could retain the property and had scores of suits fought through the courts and finally lost everything. He continued to live on the land after the Lagoon Co. bought it. Last year they discovered he was utilizing some of the timber and had the sheriff eject him. When he pursued in taking possession, two watchman were stationed on the place. Charley Henver and Eugene Briges of Shavely were guarding it previously to last October when Kelli took the job and later had Henery Hansen stay with him. Wednesday Schnaubelt came to Eureka and applied to Attorney G.W. Hunter for permission to remove tools and certain machinery from the mill which he said were his. Hunter referred him to R. Brizard of San Francisco, one of the owners. Schnaubelt then returned to his home about a mile from the mill and told his wife that he could not get permission but must do something in order to get the machinery before it was moved to Freshwater where it was to be installed in a shingle mill. She told him that it would probably lead to trouble and the things were not worth it. In her statement to the District Attorney, Mrs. Schnaubelt yesterday said that her husband decided to go to the mill early in the morning so that his two sons, Eddie and Henry, ten and twelve, respectively, could help him. He awoke about 1:30 am she said, and decided to start for the mill then as he was afraid he would oversleep if he waited until daylight. There was sufficient light cast by the moon to make the traveling easy, so the father and two sons started. When they reached the orchard below the mill the party stopped and the father sent Eddie to see if there was a light in the cabin where the watchmen were accustomed to sleep. He went near the cabin and did not see a light and returned only to find his father and brother had gone ahead. It was then he heard shots and ran. Henry, the ten-year old son went with his father toward the mill. At the blacksmith shop they stopped and dropped a sack containing wrenches, files and other tools with which they intended to dismantle the machinery, and the pair went around the mill. It was then they discovered something white a few yards from the mill and in the open field. "What is that over there?" Schnaubelt asked his son, according to the lad yesterday afternoon during the investigation by Newett. The boy replied he did not know so the father said he would see. "He went up toward it and then I hear a kind of a scream and the shot," the boy said. "The shots were pretty quick after the yell. Papa fell and I ran over to the old store where Eddie was and we ran home and told mama after we waited for papa and he didn't come." "My mama was afraid papa was shot," Henry continued in answer to the District Attorney's questions. "We waited until daylight and then got Mrs. Spinney and we went up to the mill again where Kelly and Hansen told us papa was dead." Kelly said he was 37 years of age and had been here seven years. He said he was hired to watch the mill being paid by the Lagoon Lumber Co. He testified that articles valued at about $300 had disappeared mysteriously, but could not say Schnaubelt took them. However, he knew Schnaubelt claimed to tools and certain pieces of machinery. When asked why he shot, Kelly said, "I was scared he would get me." Kelly then said Schnaubelt's hands were at his sides as he could plainly see with the aid of the moonlight and empty. He said when they searched Schnaubelt's pockets, only a pocket knife was found. Several times Kelly related that he was badly frightened and uttered a scream and began firing, fearing that Schnaubelt was there to "get me." Besides the widow, there are five small children, the youngest a year old and the oldest twelve, left to mourn his death. Schnaubelt was an Austrian, born 54 years ago, April 4th. He had been in this country for thirty years. He lived in Chicago for a time. A brother, it is said, was one of the leaders in the famous Haymarket riot of a number of years ago and has been wanted since that time for his connection with the violent work in Chicago. It is claimed that a brother of the dead man was the anarchist who threw the bomb which killed a large number of policemen at the Haymarket riot. Schnaubelt came west to San Francisco before the riots and married Katherine Jordon 16 years ago. He them moved to the Klamath River region where he purchased valuable timber lands. pg.13 "History of Humboldt County" History by Leigh H. Irvine 1915 James Carothers page 700 Mr. Carothers known as "Jammie" Carothers by his friends, was born near Danville, Ill. November 26, 1849 the son of Thomas B. and Susan [Morton] Carothers, his father being a native of Ohio, and his mother a native of Wisconsin. The father never remarried after the death of his young wife, and there was a close bound of companionship between him and his only son. Crossing the plains with his father in 1853 he settled in Petaluma with his uncle and aunt until he was thirteen years of age. Attending school there, then in 1868 when he was nineteen "Jammie" came too Humboldt county, arriving in Rohnerville on June 10. Ten years later in 1878 when land was open for settlement he took up a homestead of one hundred and sixty eight acres, on the southfork of Eel River, about four miles south of [Dyerville, now a freeway] where the southfork of Eel River runs into the main Eel River. He proved up on his property and later sold off parcels of it until he had forty eight acres left. Three acres of his home place he devotes to cultivation of fruit, principally apples, and various garden vegetables. The remainder being heavily timbered with redwood. He found great enjoyment in performing on the old-fashioned accordion and very popular as a musician for dance and harvest festivals, and other neighborhood affairs. Mr. Carothers was esteemed as one of the real pioneers of the community. --Warren Chapman " History of Humboldt County" History by Leigh H. Irvine 1915 John W. Logan John W. Logan was a native of Clay County, Illinois, and a farmer all his life, marred Miss Amanda Ruth McDaniel in Clay County, July 4, 1867. Then getting word from his two brother, Albert and Charles Logan, of the wonderful county to be settled in California. In the latter part of 1874, they moved with their family then of three children, leaning Illinois by rail to San Francisco. Then made their trip up the coast to Eureka in the steamboat, pelican, and from there by stage to Rohnerville, then to Rio Dell in a lumber wagon. The Rohnnerville teamsters would not go on afraid of being caught in a winter storm, so they hired an Indian to take them up the south fork of Eel River as far as Phillipsville, where Mr. Logan's two brothers were then living. Mr. Logan took up a homestead in the year 1875 near the south fork of the Eel river of one-hundred and sixty acres, and theresfter from time to time, as his means permitted, he increased his holding by purchase intil he had twelve-hundred acres. then improvement on this land a home, bran, clearing for and orchard and fencing. Mr. Logan and his wife had 11 children. Today on daughter, Miss Jane Logan, born in 1875 is still living and caring for the home ranch. _ Charlotte Chapman Dennis Mcauliffe's Children Dennis Mcauliffe, about the year 1870, entered into an unfortunate matrimonial alliance with a young Irish woman from the "old country", who afterwards became violently insane. He had three little daughters, the pride of their father's heart and life .In the summer of 1877, Mrs. Mcauliffe suddenly became violently insane and deliberately murdered her three children, as she said "to spite Dennis." She was prosecuted on a murder charge and defended by the well-remembered legal firm of C. Chamberland and Dehaven. She was acquitted of the murder charge on the ground of insanity, and committed to the insane asylum. Her fourth child was born in the asylum. this daughter was the idol of her father in his declining years. Dennis Mcauliffe was a sturdy, honest, industrious, intelligent and hard -workingman. He was certainly endowed with his mothers Irish wit. Everyone knew that it was a dangerous thing to crack a joke on Dennis. The man who did practically certain to get the on himself. Like his neighbor , William Roberts, he was a conspicuous figure around the threshing machines in the valley for a number of years, until age decline compelled him to quit work. When he came into Petrolia, the boys and young men would gather around him with the words, "Now Dennis give us a talk, crack some of your jokes, tell us some of your stories." It was his delight to get a crowd lined up convulsed with laughter, and he would keep the crowd roaring out their amusement. The lamentable tragedy in his family life certainly saddened his later days, and impaired his vivacity as a joker in his declining years. To make life more endurable, he resorted to hard physical labor and excerisized a high degree of self-control. He lived to the ripe old age of more than 4 score years. After a terrible blow that he had received in the death of his children, death, to him was, no doubt, a welcome guest. --by Betty Clayton CAPTAIN HENRY SMITH Captain Henry Smith was an old time Bay Pilot and for many years superintendent of Beacon Lights of the Bay for the United States Government. He was born in England and adopted the sea as his profession in early life, and after sailing the high seas in every port of the world settled in Humboldt and in 1897 was appointed to take charge of the beacon lights of the bay. His voyages included a trip to Sydney, Australia on the Francis Henry during his boyhood; four round trips to London, one of which took him to New Zealand where he took up mining for a short time; a voyage from Australia to San Francisco on the bark, Gertrude; a trip to Eureka in 1863; and a trip to Victoria on the bark, Rival. Mrs. Elizabeth Smith, wife of Captain Henry Smith was born in London and settled in Humboldt County in January, 1869. GEORGE H. TILLEY He arrived in Humboldt County in the spring of 1850, as a member of the exploring Mendocino party, which numbered 28. He as a native of Rhode Island. Of the 28 pioneers, Tilley was one of two who remained and established his home here, becoming one of the most prominent men in Arcata and the County. The "Green Book" which is the first book of deeds in Humboldt County, located in the Recorders Office, contains the deeds given by Tilley to various members of the Eureka Company and Union Company. He had a claim of 160 acres of land in Eureka, and in the years to come made many further investments. Early assessment books list Tilley as the agent for the Union Transportation Co., he was manager and owner. This was the Union Plank Walk and Wharf Co., and was the first railroad in California and the predecessor of what was to become the Arcata and Mad River Railroad, it was a plank railroad running from the town of Union out the old wharf built in 1854 and used to load and unload ships. It used a horse drawn car. The Mendocino Co. and the Union Co. had 30 members. In 1858 Tilley signed a petition for the incorporation of the town of Union. In December, 1860, he married Francis Cave, who had recently arrived here from Iowa. He built one of the handsomest and most comfortable residences in Arcata, and later sold it to James Anderson of Angel Ranch. In December, 1866, Tilley was elected Supervisor of the Third District. He also served as a member of the Arcata City Council. The records of the first President of the Greenwood Cemetery Association, it was in this Cemetery that he was buried in 1900. From the time of his arrival in 1850, at which time an Indian war was going on, until his death, due to a heart failure, he was actively involved in the settling and development of Humboldt County. The present generation of his family has continued the interest shown by him in affairs of the County, making this one that has continually contributed active support for over 100 years. By Sally Nichols SILAS MILLS MATTHEWS, JR. *Born August 9, 1849, Australia Died February 15, 1906, Eureka, California Silas Matthews, Jr., had been separated from is father and sister at an early age, and when he was 14, he went to Australia to find them. His mother told him of his family when he was expected to die from brain fever; when he recovered, he went to find them and after being reunited, they came to American landing in San Francisco in December, 1864. They sailed up the coast to Washington Territory where they lived for a time. The winters being so cold, they then sailed to Eureka arriving in 1866. He was a cook in the woods camps around Humboldt County, remained singed and retired quite young. He then bought and sold property and loaned sums of money to people around the county. Many descendants still remain in Humboldt County, being most of the Bryant family, for which Bryant Street was named. SILAS MILLS MATTHEWS, SR. *Born August 6, 1808, Australia Died February 18, 1875, Eureka, California Settled in Eureka, California, in 1866. Was a cabinet maker by trade. Interred in Myrtle Grove Cemetery by Robert A. Palmrose *Both on same tombstone *Note on both year of birth and death (same months). Captain Matheson Captain Matheson, of the Salvation Army, was drowned in Mad River while trying to ford that stream near Hannah's crossing about 1 o'clock Sunday afternoon. Matheson with another member of the Army, George Lennel, were in a light road cart and when first observed were well out in the stream, which had been considerably swollen by the recent rains. They where standing up in the cart shouting for help, which attracted some persons in the house at Mager's ferry, who started to their rescue in a skiff. Before they could reach them, however, the horse was carried of by its feet by the strong current and men and outfit were left struggling in the water. Lennal managed to swim ashore, but Matheson and the horse were drowned, and it is believed their bodies were carried out to sea as a diligent search along the river yesterday by members of the Army failed to reveal any traces of them. Matheson was about 30 years of age and unmarried. He had recently been promoted to a captaincy in the Salvation Army and was known in Army circles as " The Little Laplander," he having been a native of Lapland. By J.M. Miller --From Daily Humboldt Times Eureka, California Tuesday, April 14, 1896 From: FORTS OF THE WEST An Indispensable Handbook of All Presidios and Military Forts West of the Mississippi up to 1898 By Robert W. Frazer (University of Oklahoma Press, 1965) - - - - C A L I F O R N I A (While the book will provide the names of all of California's forts, this list will include details of only those serving the Humboldt Military District, or areas having immediate concern with the military problems of the Northern California area.) ANDERSON--Established in march, 1862. Located on the right bank of Redwood Creek in Humboldt County. Intended to protect the area between Redwood Creek and the Klamath River from Indian hostilities. Established Captain Charles D. Douglas, 2nd California Infantry, commanding the District of Humboldt. Named for Colonel Allen L. Anderson, 8th California Infantry. The post was never officially designated a fort, although it was so called in the orders for its establishment and referred to as such in official correspondence. Abandoned late in 1862, the post was later used as a camp during the conduct of operations against the Indians in 1864. Permanently abandoned on August 9, 1886. BAKER I.--Established in March, 1862. Located some twenty-three miles east of the town of Hydesville on the west bank of the Van Duzen Fork of the Eel River in Humboldt County. Intended to protect the area between the Eel River and the Mad River from Indian hostilities. Established by Captain Thomas E. Ketcham, 3rd California Infantry, by order of Conel Francis J. Lippit. Named for Conel Edward D. BAKER, 71st Pennsylvania Infantry, who was killed on October 21, 1861, in the battle of Ball's Bluff, Virginia. Baker had resigned his seat in the United States Senate, where he represented California, to serve in the U.S. Army. The post was never officially designated a fort, although it was so called in the orders for its establishment and referred as such in official correspondence. Lieutenant Colonel Stephen G. Whipple, recommended the abandonment of the post on September 7, 1863, and its replacement by Camp Iaqua. It was abandoned before the end of the year. BAKER II.--The original military works on the site where erected during the Civil War. Located on the north side of the Golden Gate, opposite Fort Winfield Scott on Lime Point. (Named for the same Colonel.) BRAGG --Established June 11, 1857. Located to the north of the mouth of the Noyo River at the present town of Fort Bragg in Mendocino County. The post was established within the boundaries of the Mendocino Indian Reservation and was intended both to control and to protect the Indians of the area. Established by first Lt. Horatio Gates Gibson, 3rd U.S. Artillery. Named for Captain Braxton Bragg, 3rd U.S. Artillery, and later a general in the Confederate Army. Although there was some agitation to change the name, it was retained during the Civil War. Abandoned on October 19, 1864. The Mendocino Indian Reservation was discontinued in March, 1866, and land opened to settlement a few years later. CROOK--Established July 1, 1857. Located on the north bank of Fall River, seven miles above its conflunce with the Pit Shasta County. Named for First Lieutentant George Crook, 4th U. S. Infantry. (Crook was at the founding of Fort Humboldt.) GASTON I.--Established December 4,1858. Located in Hoopa Valley on the west bank of the Trinity River, about fourteen miles above its juncture with the Klamath in Humboldt County. Designed to control the protect the Indians of the area, including those of the Hoopa Valley Reservation. Established by Captain Edmund Underwood, 4th U. S. Dragons, killed on May 17, 1858, during the expedition against the Spokane Indians. Originally called fort Gaston, the post became a camp on January 1, 1867, and was transferred to the Interior Department on February 11, 1892, for use of the Indian Service. (GASTON II.--Established in 1859. Located on the west bank of the Colorado River. Presumably named for the same officer.) HUMBOLDT--Established January 30, 1853. Located on a bluff overlooking Humboldt Bay at Bucksport, now a part of Eureka. Established to protect the area from hostile Indians, it served also as a supply depot for the other northern California posts. Established by Captain Robert C. Buchanan, 4th U. S. Infantry. The garrison was withdrawn from Fort Gaston. On September 14, 1867, Brigadier General Irvin McDowell, commanding the department, stated that the company of artillery had been withdrawn and the post abandoned completely. The military reservation was transferred to the Interior Department on April 6, 1870. JONES--Established October 16, 1852. Located on the east of the Scott River at the present town of Fort Jones in Siskiyou County. The post may have been established by Second Lieutenant Joseph B. Collins, 4th U. S. Infantry. Intended to protect the gold-mining district from Indian depredations. Named Colonel Roger Jones, adjutant general, U. S. army, who died on July 15, 1852. Abandoned on June 25, 1858. The military reservation, although never officially declared, was transferred to the Interior Department on May 27, 1870. LIPPITT--Established January 10, 1862. Located at Bucksport, now part of Eureka, on Humboldt Bay. Apparently, this was a temporary post established by Colonel Francis J. LIPPITT, 2nd California Infantry, commanded the District of Humboldt, for whom the post was named, because of lack of facilities at Fort Humboldt to accommodate the enlarged command. The post consisted entirely of rented buildings and seems to have existed for not more than two months. It never was a fort. LYON--Established in March, 1862. Located at Brehmer's Ranch on the right side of the Mad River about twenty miles east of Arcata. Intended to protect the area between the Mad River and Redwood Creek from Indian hostilities. Established by Captain Charles Heffernan, 2nd California Infantry by order of Colonel Francis J. Lippitt, 2nd California Infantry. Named for Brigadier Nathaniel Lyon, killed August 10, 1861, in the Battle of Wilson's Creek, Missouri. The post was never officially designated a fort, although it was so called in the orders for its establishment and as such in official correspondence. Abandoned late in 1862. SEWARD--Established September 1, 1861. Located on the Eel River at the present town of Fort Seward in Humboldt County. The site was selected and the post established by Major Charles S. Lovell, 10th U.S. Infantry. The post was established by order of Brigadier General Edwin Vose Summer, commanding the department, who originally intended that it replace Fort Humboldt. Named for Secretary of State William H. Seward. The garrison was withdrawn to Fort Humboldt , probably in December 1861, because of lack of provisions and forage at the post. Abandoned in April, 1862, by order of Colonel Francis J. Lippitt, 2nd California Infantry, commanding the District of Humbolt. TER-WAW--Established October 12, 1857. Located on the north bank of the Klamath River, about six miles above its mouth, on the Klamath River Indian Reservation and across the river from the agency. Intended to control and protect the Indians of the area. Established by First Lieutenant George Crook , 4th U. S. Infantry. Crook suggested the name Ter-waw, which is reported to be the Yurok Indian word for the locality, meaning "beautiful place." The garrison was withdrawn on June 11, 1861. Reoccupied on August 28, 1861. The post was flooded by the Klamath River four times during the winter of 1861-62, and seventeen of the twenty buildings were washed away. It was first ordered rebuilt, and then abandoned, by order of Brigadier General George Wright, on June 11, 1862. WELLER--Established January 3, 1859. Located on the Mendocino Indian reservation near the headwaters of the Russian River in Redwood Valley. Established by Captain Edward Johnson, 6th U. S. Infantry. Constructed under the direction of First Lieutenant William P. Carlin, 6th U.S. Infantry. Named for John B. Weller, governor of California. The original plan had been to establish the post nome cult Indian Reservation, but transportation difficulties led to it's location at this spot. Abandoned in September, 1859. WRIGHT--Established December, 1858. Located near the center of Round Valley in Mendocino Co. Established to control and protect the Indians of the Nome Cult Agency, later the Round Valley Cult Indian Agency by 2nd Lieutenant Edward Dylan, 6th U.S. Infantry. It was abandoned in September, 1861, then reoccupied on December 11, 1862, by Captain Charles D. Douglas, 2nd California Infantry. At that time the post was renamed Fort Wright, in honor of Brigadier General George Wright, commanding the department. Following the Civil War the post was designated Camp Wright. The garrison was withdrawn on Jun 17, 1875, because the Indians were no longer considered hostile. On July 26, 1876, the buildings and military reservation were transferred to the Interior Department for the use of the Indian Service. From: The Schooner That Came Home The Final Voyage Of the C. A. Thayer By Harlan Trott (Cornell Maritime Press, Cambridge, Maryland) 1958 Chapter 1 The Builder Our leave-taking is like the send-offs Nantucket gave her Swains and Starbucks in the heigh-ho old days of Down east whaling. Families and friends in their Sunday finery flood the excited pierhead scene. And sentimental shellbacks have turned out in droves to see the schooner sail. Yachts glisten in the offing. Newsreel cameras crank in the drama of the old windjammer's leavetaking, as the tugboat Trojan pushed her manila bow fender in to the C. A. Thayer's stout wooden planks. We are victualed and iced down for fourteen days. But there is cheerful talk about making it in five. The record is said to be three days and fourteen hours, Umpqua River to the Knowland schooner, Sadie. This record of course is a little longer than the rhumb-line distance the captain's dividers would lay off on the chart from Cape Flattery to the Farallones. But who knows? Give us a fair wind out of the cold North Pacific and our high, unballasted ship may write a new record into the history of fast sail passages from Flattery to the Golden Gate. And there are extra hands to make quick and light work of ship handling if Captain Adrian Raynaud and his two mates in the after-house are more than half a mind to drive her. Deep down in the eyes of her, our big Bering Sea fisherman's fo'c's'le is swarming with brawny zeal. In her timber-coasting days, four able seamen berthed in the forward house were all it took to work her. We are fifteen forward, counting the two super-numeraries, Steeve Wilson of Port Blakely, and a photographer-naturalist and me. Right off Pan American's new Arctic clipper from London, I am the last aboard, an hour before the turn of the tide-toting a borrowed bedroll and some undersized storm gear, rustled up in a breathless pierhead phone call to a Seattle newspaper colleague. The schooner's three sturdy new masts are swimming like a row of Christopher Wren steeples in the warm autumn sunshine, and the new hemp cordage is making gull noises in the white-painted blocks, straining to be off on the high water. Outboard, the sun glints on the fresh paintwork, half-hiding the old girl's 62 years. The Builder Page 2 "All ashore that are going ashore!" The ladder is dragged in. Cook Clark Turner has said his farewells. Already the Charley Noble on his mardhall of Everett, Washinton, is destined to play a big role on thin voyage. The sea cook is a key man, the first and the last on the job of appeasing his hungry horde. After 62 years of west Coast timber droughing, deep-sea trading and Arctic fishing, the C. A. Thayer is bound away for San Francisco to live on and on in the State maritime museum's windjammer' Valhalla. The Thayer is what they call a baldheaded schooner measuring 158 feet from stempost to rudder post, 36 feet though the beam and 11 feet, 10 inches deep in the hold. Counting her deckloud, the schooner could stow 575,000 board feet of lumber. She was built for E. K. Wood Lumber Company and named for one of the firm's partners. A contemporary of Clarence A. Thayer's son remember the elder Thayer as a serious strait-laced businessman, as "stiff and unbending" as the schooner's three great Oregon fir masts. As the public property of California's state park system, she is destined to long outlive her namesake's fame. Last of the three masted schooners that loaded lumber in the North Pacific ports for San Francisco and southern California the C. A. Thayer has two Australian voyages in her record. During World War II she was an urged Navy barge. And as late as 1956 she was earning money in the weird masquerade of a tourist "pirate ship" on the evergreen slopes of Hood's Canal near the little Washington State village of Lilliwaup North. The C. A. Thayer was built at Fairhaven, California in 1895, by the master builder, H. D. Bendixsen. His fame as an early California shipwrite took sturdy root in the easy lines and oakribbed integrity of the first few small vessel he built on his own. Hans Ditlev Bendixsen was born at Tristed, Denmark in 1842; found the feel of a shipwrite's tools at Poal Pagh's yard in Aalborg and later at Jacob Holm's and Poap & Mitchelsen's ship ways in the beautiful city of Copenhagen. The story of his life merits some reflection. For, if as they say, a man is in work, then surely it must explain and verify the hard, sea-tested values in the vessels he built, vessels such as his C. A. Thayer. Hans Bendixsen's practical knowledge, his fine-edged skill, his unstinted labor and his honesty gained him a handsome living and some renown wherever Bendixsen ships were mentioned. The Builder Page 3 All this must have been latent in the purposefulness of Thisted's shipwright's apprentice, who sailed out of Copenhagen as a ship's carpenter about the time of the American Civil War. Early California records show that he came to San Francis on a voyage from Brazil and worked in the city's shipyards in the 'Sixties. Eventually, he went to Eureka to work in the E. and H. Cousins yard. Soon, Hans Bendixen had a yard of his own at the foot of L Street where he built his first ship, the little topmaster schooner Fairy Queen. Then came Undine, the Silva, the Elvenia, the Mary, the Humboldt, the Aurora, and a host of others. Before very long, Bendixsen outgrew the L street yard, and moved to Fairhaven on the peninsula across from Eureka. Some years ther were damaging floods, and at one time fire reduced his Fairhaven yard to ashes. Hans Bendixen lost all his timber, shipways, machinery, forge , spar loft, along with a vessel framed out in the stocks--everything expect his indefatigable Danish pluck. In a few years, the Bendixen yard was going again, full blast and debt free. Spread out over fourteen acres were shops, sawmills, slips, timber yards, even cottages and gardens for 150 workers. It was a small town. - - - The year he moved to Fairhaven, Bendixsen launched seven vessels, including three schooners for the South Sea Island trade. The three-mast schooner, Compeer, launched in 1887, was his largest up to that time. In 1883, West Coast seaman were pointing to a beautiful new white three-masted barkentine, the City of Papeete, and saying proudly, "There goes a Bendixsen ship." Usually, Hans Bendixsen owned shares in Bendixsen-built ships--vessels plying the coast with lumber or trading out to the sugar islands. He held a number of shares in the 1,100-ton steamer Humboldt, built the year after he launched the C.A. Thayer. Another durable Bendixsen schooner, the famous three-master, Wawona, like the C.A Thayer, was still at sea after World War II. The year the Maine blew up in Havana Harbor was a memorable year in Fairhaven also. A group of San Franciscans headed by James H. Bruce had just commissioned their Fairhaven friend to build them a vessel. It was a gala day at Fairhaven the four-master H.D. Bendixsen slid down the ways, for she was also Bendixsen's 100th ship. Later a couple of retired Danish captains, Jens Eschen and Ramus Minor, managed the H.D. Bendixsen as a side-line to their stevedoring business. AS late as 1923, she was trading in the Arctic. The next year, the H.D. Bendixsen was lost on Point Barrow. The Builder Page 4 A decade after the gold spike was driven home at Promontory Point across the mountains a young writer named Robert Louis Stevenson was rubbing patched elbows with immigrant hordes pouring into California over the new trans- continental cinder trails. Scandinavians, Danes especially--bringing their maritime skills--wet their whistles on San Francisco's East Street, then made tracks for Fairhaven, lured by the shipbuilding fame of Thisted's H.D. Bendixsen. He was good to his men. When the Danish fraternity, "Dania," held its convention at Ferndale, just south of Eureka, in February 1900, the shipbuilder held open house at Fairhaven. That night when Bendixsen workers knocked off too late to catch the train, the big-hearted boss chartered a special train to transport them to the Danish fete at Ferndale. Later that same year, his health failing, Bendixsen sold the shipyard at Fairhaven. A stock company was formed to buy him out; later the yard was leased to Hammond Lumber Company. Early in World War I, the shipyard passed into the hands of Governor James Rolph, Jr., head of a famous California shipping house. Rolph's flamboyant new broom swept away the town's transplanted New England name. Fairhaven became Rolph. In the first year alone, four wooden ocean steamers and three big off-shore barkentines were launched. Orders cam from France for three steamers for the North African trade. Out of such modest beginnings at Hans Bendixsen's little topsail river schooner, Fairy Queen, were these last works made. When new of Hans Ditlev Bendixsen's death spread out along the Pacific West Coast in 1902, shops closed their shutters in Fairhaven and Eureka, and all up and down the long coast the ocean flags of Matson, J.D. Spreckes, E.K. Wood, Eschen & Minor, Rolph, Charles Nelson and A.P. Lorentzen, were lowered to half-mast in tribute to this invincible Dane. - - - John A. Mackrodt, an old Cape Horn veteran of Ferdinand Laeisz's Flying "P" line of Hamburg nitrate clippers, remembers Hans Bendixsen's wife, Emma, as a dainty little German woman, erect and spirited, even when she was well past ninety. The Mackrodt's lived across the street in Alameda from Emma, who, after he second marriage, like to be addressed as Mrs. Bendixsen-Jensen. Emma was a sharp whist player, and John Mackrodt was her favorite partner. In 1908, Mackrodt had paid off from the barkentine S.N. Castle, at Gray's Harbor and shipped down to San Francisco in the lumber-laden C.A. Thayer. Emma Bendixsen-Jensen was naturally sentimental. This ten-day interlude in the life of a deepwater wanderer, this brief connection with one of Hans Bendixsen's vessels, made John Mackrodt a welcome neighbor. The Builder PAGE 5 Emma's evening whist parties were times for reminiscing about the and other Thayer and other Bendixsen ships whose oil portraits adorned Emma Bendixsen-Jensen's big parlor. Sometimes Emma would send her maid up to Park Street for a cake, and there would be references to Humbolt Bay to Eureka in a skiff and shopped for vegetables and stew-meat to feed the hungry shipwrights and caulkers in her husbands shipyard. In these later years, there was a cook and maid to help run the Alameda house, and an electric coupe which Emma steered with a tiller. And there was Polly, a suspicious and irascible parrot that sat on little Emma's shoulder during strolls down Pacific Street. Polly took a shine to Mackrodt who took the bird on occasional walks in the park, which pleased Emma, too. Thus it was only natural that Emma Bendixsen-Jensen sent for John Mackrodt's wife one day to witness her signature to her will. Emma passed on in her 102nd year, leaving her estate to charitable institutions in Hans Bendixsen's native Denmark. When the E.K. Wood Lumber Company went to Fairhaven in 1895 for a schooner to be built to their account and to be named for their partner, C.A. Thayer, the Fairhaven shipbuilder could never have guessed what glamorous destiny lay ahead for this plain workaday ship. Little did he know that in her sturdy pine workmanship the blossom of his fame was blown. This is the account of Hans Ditlev Bendixsen's enduring artistry. This is the story of the Fairhaven schooner's last voyage--her passage to prosperity. And now the tide is standing. The towboat toots impatiently! "Single up, fore and aft! Stand by to take the tug's hawser! "Commands float forward. "Let go everything." Chief Mate John Dickerhoff takes charge on the fo'c'sle head; suddenly his voice is all business. "Look alive, there! Through that chock there. Through the chock! Up here with that chafing gear! Let's have some rope yarns! Around the , now, some more turns! Give us some slack! Give us some slack! Come on! What d'ya think this is, a Sunday picnic? Somebody's paying for that towboat!" The pier drifts away as the Trojan backs down in her own wheel wash. The mate's voice has subsided now into a reassuring snarl. "On deck, now, all hands! Get this mess squared away." The C.A.Thayer is outward bound. And on land, . . . the men beholding knew A queen the more was passing, seeing you. VESSELS BUILT BY H.D. BENDIXSEN ON HUMBOLDT BAY, CALIFORNIA Built at Eureka Year Name Gross Tonnage Type 1869 FAIRY QUEEN 99 Two-mast schooner for Sacramento River 1870 UNDINE 144 Two-mast centerboard schooner 1871 SILVA 18 Humboldt Bay Steamer 1872 MARION 48 Two-mast schooner for Tahiti 1872 LILLIE JONES 38 Humboldt Bay Steamer 1872 MARY 49 Two-mast schooner for Tahiti 1872 ELVENIA 148 Two-mast lumber schooner 1872 STELLA 49 Two-mst schooner for Tahiti 1872 ATLANTA 49 Two-mast schooner for Tahiti 1873 AURORA 193 Two-mast lumber schooner 1873 SILVA 41 1871 vessel lengthened 1873 JOHN McCULLOUGH 72 Two-mast lumber schooner 1874 VENUS 80 Two-mast schooner for Tahiti 1874 GOLDEN GATE 97 Two-mast lumber schooner 1874 HUMBOLDT 138 Two-mast lumber schooner 1874 O.S. FOWLER 35 Two-mast schooner 1874 LOVELY 80 Two-mast schooner for Tahiti 1875 VINE 50 Two-mast schooner for Tahiti 1875 VARAO 68 Two-mast schooner for Tahiti Built in Fairhaven 1875 LA GIRONDE 80 Two-mast schooner for Tahiti 1875 MARY SWANN 143 Two-mast lumber schooner 1875 PALOMA 223 Half-brig for Tahiti 1875 J.G. WALL 98 Two-mast lumber schooner 1875 LOTTIE COLLINS 69 Two-mast lumber schooner 1875 LAURA PIKE 145 Two-mast lumber schooner 1875 JOHN N. INGALLS 95 Two-mast lumber schooner 1875 PAULINE COLLINS 69 Two-mast lumber schooner 1875 MARY ANN 76 Steam tug (rebuilt) 1876 MARTHA W. TUFT 173 Two-mast lumber schooner 1876 MARY BUHNE 147 Two-mast lumber schooner 1876 EXCELSIOR 131 Three-mast lumber schooner 1876 LIZZIE MADISON 348 Two-mast lumber schooner 1876 MAXIM 131 Two-mast lumber schooner 1876 ABBIE 117 Two-mast lumber schooner 1876 SAN BUENAVENTURA 180 Two-mast lumber schooner 1876 CHRISTINA STEFFENS 70 Two-mast lumber schooner 1876 DAVID & ETTIE 69 Two-mast lumber schooner 1876 GUSSIE KLOSE 94 Two-mast lumber schooner 1876 MORNING STAR 99 Two-mast lumber schooner 1877 COMPEER 347 Three-mast lumber schooner 1877 ALBERT & EDWARD 96 1875 vessel repaired 1878 ALTA 104 Humboldt Bay stern-wheeler 1878 GEORGIE R. HIGGINS 96 Two-mast lumber schooner (with Thomas H. Peterson) 1878 ORION (with T.H.P.) 117 Two-mast lumber schooner 1878 HINAARI 65 Two-mast schooner for Tahiti 1879 DAISY ROWE 122 Two-mast lumber schooner 1879 EDWARD PARKE 147 Two-mast schooner (rebuilt) 1880 IDA McKAY 187 Three-mast lumber schooner 1881 VEGA 245 Three-mast lumber schooner 1881 BERTHA DOLBEER 242 Three-mast lumber schooner 1881 CHARLES HANSON 192 Two-mast lumber schooner Year Name Gross Tonnage Type Fraction* 1882 FALCON 205 Three-mast lumber schooner 1/16 1882 MABEL GRAY 205 Three-mast lumber schooner 1882 NEPTUNE 184 Two-mast lumber schooner 1883 WESTERN HOME 128 Two-mast lumber schooner (rebuilt) 1883 CITY OF PAPEETE 389 Barkentine: Tahiti packet 1883 JESSIE MINOR 261 Three-mast lumber schooner 1883 VOLANT 172 Three-mast lumber schooner 1884 BERTIE MINOR 272 Three-mast lumber schooner 1884 OCCIDENTAL 209 Three-mast lumber schooner 1/16 1886 FORTUNA 145 Two-mast lumber schooner 1/8 1887 BARBARA Two-mast lumber schooner 1887 ESTHER BUHNE 287 Three-mast baldheader 1/16 1887 WM. F. WITZEMANN 487 Four-mast lumber schooner 1888 ALLEN A. 342 Three-mast baldheader 1888 GLENDALE 296 Three-mast baldheader 1888 NORTH FORK 322 Steam schooner 1888 CHARLES E. FALK 298 Three-mast baldheader 1/8 1889 H.C. WRIGHT 290 Three-mast lumber schooner 1/16 1890 G.W. WATSON 452 Three-mast baldheader 1/16 1890 SEQUOIA 341 Three-mast baldheader 1/16 1890 AZALEA 344 Three-mast baldheader 1/16 1890 SADIE 310 Three-mast baldheader 1890 LUCY 309 Three-mast baldheader 1891 ROY SOMERS 314 Three-mast baldheader 1/8 1891 R.W. BARTLETT 521 Four-mast lumber schooner 1/8 1891 CZARINA 230 Three-mast baldheader 1892 CHARLES R. WILSON 345 Three-mast baldheader 1/8 1892 LOUISE 346 Three-mast baldheader 1/16 1892 HILO 644 Barkentine 1/16 1892 OTTILIE FJORD 261 Three-mast baldheader 1/16 1892 JANE L. STANFORD 970 Four-mast barkentine 1/16 1892 O.M. KELLOGG 393 Three-mast baldheader 1/16 1894 FORA BLUHM 330 Three-mast schooner (rebuilt) 1895 MAWEEMA 453 Three-mast baldheader 1/4 1896 ALBERT MEYER 459 Three-mast baldheader 3/16 1896 METHA NELSON 460 Three-mast lumber schooner 7/32 1896 DEFENDER 446 Four-mast baldheader 9/32 1896 HUMBOLDT 1075 Coasting steamer 1896 ALLIANCE 679 Steam schooner 1897 WAWONA 468 Three-mast baldheader 5/24 1897 MILDRED 464 Three-mast baldheader 7/32 1897 HUENEME 341 Steam schooner 1/16 1898 H.D. BENDIXSEN 641 Four-mast lumber schooner 5/32 1898 A.M. BAXTER 516 Four-mast lumber schooner 7/32 1898 JAMES H. BRUCE 533 Four-mast lumber schooner 1/4 1898 FULTON 389 Steam schooner 1/16 1898 WILLIAM CARSON 890 Four-mast barkentine 1/16 1898 JAMES ROLPH 586 Four-mast lumber schooner 1/16 1898 DESPATCH 698 Steam schooner 1/16 1898 S.T. ALEXANDER 779 Four-mast lumber schooner 1898 SANTA PAULA 650 Oil tank barge; four masts 1900 NOME CITY 639 Steam schooner 1/32 1900 IAQUA 712 Steam schooner 1/32 1900 JOHN PALMER 1187 Four-mast barkentine 1900 IRENE 772 Four-mast lumber schooner 1/16 1901 ALVENA 772 Four-mast lumber schooner 1/16 From: "Mansfield on the Condition of the Western Forts 1853-54" Ed. Robert W. Frazer. Univ. Of Oklahoma Press, 1963. In 1853 and 1854, Colonel Joseph King Fenno Mansfield inspected the United States military posts in the Oregon Country and the territory acquired at the close of the Mexican War. His tour took him through an extensive region at a time when the major aspects of the military policy to be followed in the Far West were beginning to take shape. As late as 1845 a chain of twelve posts, from Fort Jessup, Louisiana to Fort Snelling, in present Minnesota, constituted the western frontier and marked the line between the frontier settlement and the land occupied by the Indians. The discovery of gold in California and the resultant increase in migration to the West coast complicated the problem by multiplying the routes of travel and stirring up hostility of the Indians. This is the way Colonel Mansfield saw and described Fort Humboldt in his report (he spelled it 'Humboldt') : Fort Humboldt--27h, 28h, and 29h July This post is under the command of Captain and Brevet Lieutenant Colonel R.O. Buchanan, 4h Infantry, who established it Josiah Simpson. The force consists of Company B. 4h Infantry (Captain R.C. Buchanan), 41 in aggregate: 2 sergeants, 2 corporals, one musician, 17 privates for duty; 11 rank and fire on extra daily duty; total 37 present for duty. 1t Lieutenant J.B. Collins, 4h Infantry, absent on recruiting service; 2d Lieutenant C. S. Rundel on service in New Mexico, not having joined since promoted 5h August, 1853; one rank and file absent sick; one rank and file on furlough. Total present and absent, 41. Company F, 4h Infantry (Captain Henry M. Judah), 32 in the aggregate: 1t Lieutenant L.C. Hunt, also acting assistant quartermaster and commissary and recruiting officer; 2 sergeants, one corporal, one musician, 15 privates for duty; 3 rank and file sick, 5 rank and file on extra daily duty; total for present, 29: 2d Lieutenant John Withers on detached service at Fort Vancouver as regimental quartermaster since 25th October, 1853; Brevet 2d Lieutenant A. E. Latimer on duty at Fort Miller with Company A, 1t Dragoons, not joined since promoted 1t July, 1853; one rank and file absent confined. Total present and absent, 32. Thus showing an aggregate force present for duty of 66. The discipline of this post is good. Both companies were in the old uniform, and their arms and equipment in good serviceable order, and attention paid to the comforts of the men. The quarters however were only sufficient to accommodate one full company. These troops have done a great deal of work, and put up all their quarters, under the direction of Colonel Buchanan, at a small cost in purchasing materials and hiring labour so the all the quarters of this post have cost only 11,664 93/100 dollars, and the men have supplied their own wood and made a very valuable garden. In short, great credit is due this command for its industry &c. A good bakery, hospital, store house and magazine have been built, and abundant quarters for officers. The plan adopted by Colonel Buchanan of small, snug plank buildings for each officer is an excellent one and readily executed. There was a post fund on 30h June 29 36/100. Colonel Buchanan gave a handsome battalion drill, and Captain Judah, a handsome company drill at infantry. The drill as skirmishers was indifferent. There was a deficiency of music, only one drummer and one bugler. There is at this post one mountain howitzer with 74 rounds of fixed ammunition for it and 12,500 rounds musket ball cartridges. And the post records in good order. The Medical Department is under the direction of Assistant Surgeon Simpson and the sick well cared for. This is a healthy locality and the greatest heat of temperature in July, 73 degrees, and the changes not great and strongly contrasted with Fort Reading in about the same latitude 175 miles by mule trail eastward over the coast range of mountains and beyond the influence of the north west winds which blow steadily in the dry season. The Quartermaster's Department is in the hands of Lieutenant L.C. Hunt, whom I found in quite ill health and expecting soon to leave. His average expenditures for the last four quarters was 1,890 dollars and he had on hand at date 3,284 71/100 dollars which is kept in an iron safe in his office. There are no citizens in his employ and all his records in good order, and supplies well stored. His funds on this account come from Major Cross at headquarters. Lieutenant Hunt also performs the duty of commissary of subsistence and the supplies good and abundant. The price of fresh beef here is 15 cents the pound on the hoof. Other supplies come from San Francisco and are sometimes shipped beyond this to Crescent City and have to be reshipped back, thereby increasing time and causing damage. There is no necessity for this as lumber vessels are constantly here direct from San Francisco. Lieutenant had on hand this account 995 66/100 dollars which is kept in an iron safe in his office. His funds for subsistence come from Brevet Major Eaton at headquarters. There was condemned in this department this year 20 barrels (of) flour and 185 pounds (of) coffee. The duty of the recruiting officer too is performed by Lieutenant Hunt, and he has in his hands on this account 346 dollars in an iron safe in his office. My attention was called here to the flannel shirt which is white, and shrinks so badly after washing as to be unfit for service: whereas I was informed the coloured flannel does not shrink. The American population capable of bearing arms in the four little towns on this bay my be stated at 200. LEGEND OF UR-LUR-UR At Wilson Creek, near the Klamath, was an Indian village. Nearby, in the sea, stood a large, high rock called Ur-lur-ur. This rock proved magical to any who possessed courage to let himself be lowered into the depths of the chasm in its center, in which was as pot from where water seeped, drop by drop. By allowing but one drop to fall upon his head, one would become very rich in shell money and also the read head of the woodpecker. Should more than one drop fall upon his head, dire misfortune befell one. A young brave, desiring wealth, prepared for the ordeal by fasting for ten days; thus to become purified in body and spirit. When all was ready, he was lowered by his brothers, by a long rope woven from fibers of native plants, into the fearsome depths. They pulled up the rope. He was not there and they knew that he had yielded to greed and had let more than one drop fall upon his head. One moon passed away when they saw a person moving about on Ur-lur-ur and went in canoes to the rock. They hardly knew him, for the bones of his body came through the skin and he seemed as though near death. They carried him home but were ashamed for they knew that greed had brought this misfortune. They robed him in skins and cared for him but none could open his clenched hands. After many moons, came a sign that the Great Spirit had forgiven him and they rejoiced, for the young man had suffered much. When his hands became open, he gazed in wonder, for in one was the red head of a woodpecker, and in the other, a shell. Suddenly he remembered a vision in the dark pit telling him to place each in a shallow basket and so long as he used only a shallow one, he would always find it full of money and it would serve to remind him that greed brings woe. Never again did he commit the sin of greed and always his baskets were full to the brim with money. A SHORT LEGEND The Buzzard, when an Indian, was one day eating "hook bill" salmon soup. Accidentally upsetting his bowl, he scalded his mouth and neck. That is the reason he has today a blistered appearing beck similar to that of a turkey. Never since that time has a buzzard eaten hook bill salmon. --From ANCIENT LEGENDS OF THE CALIFORNIA INDIANS OF THE REDWOOD EMPIRE By Gay G. Aldrich and Ida McBride (Orick, CA) From THE HUMBOLDT TIMES March 19, 1859 (Note: At this point the settlers of the Humboldt Bay area were sure their problems with the Indians were over. They did not realize there would be further events and a long war to come.) END OF THE INDIAN WAR We gave notice last week that the greater portion of the Redwood Indians had been taken, and that the expedition would probably disband in a few days. On Tuesday last the steamer Glide brought down the prisoners to this place--one hundred and sixty in number--and placed them on board the bark Fanny Major, and Thursday morning they crossed the bar enroute to their new homes at Mendocino. Among this lot were about fifty warriors, whose grim visages and sulky demeanor clearly indicated that they were dissatisfied with the passage they were about to undertake on the "big waters." True to their instinct they have so far succeeded in baffling the Volunteers as to the whereabouts of their guns. But few guns were found in the rancherias, and the balance, together with all their ammunition has either been hid away or disposed of to other Indians. General Kibbe has a stratagem on foot to recover the guns, but whether it will succeed or not remains to be seen. It is General Kibbe's impression that he has taken nearly all of the Redwood Indians, except those who reside low down on the stream and they are not hostile. It appears from the statements of the prisoners that the murders which have been committed from time to time for the past two years, and which led to this war, were all the deeds of five Indians, brothers, who lived in the vicinity of Upper Redwood Creek. They were the murderers of Grange and Cook in March 1857, getting possession of the rifles, revolvers and ammunition of the murdered men. They were instrumental in the killing of Stephens and Miller, and subsequently killed Mr. Boynton, in sight of his residence, ten miles from Union. They have been the leading spirits among the Indians throughout this campaign, and one by one have fallen till only one remains, who was sent off among the prisoners this week. A few of the Redwoods who rendered service to General Kibbe in the expedition will not be sent away, but will be allowed to live among the Lower Mad River Indians, who are considered peaceable. Of this number, the Chief of the Sweat House tribe, near Minor's is one. "Old Sandy," as he is called, is regarded by the settlers on Redwood, and those who have been in the habit of traveling by trail, as a good Indian. He has always been friendly towards the whites, and it is the opinion of those best acquainted with him, that he has always counseled peace with his tribe. He is much attached to his family and says he would rather die here than go on the reservation. It is through him that General Kibbe will try to recover the guns of the hostile Indians. Another one that will be left is one of the Redwood prisoners taken on the Mad River some three weeks since. He has rendered valuable service to the expedition in pointing out the rancherias, and suggesting plans of their capture. There are some Indians on Upper Mad River yet but they will probably be taken soon, as Captain Messic is after them; this done the campaign will be closed, and we hope never again to be called into service in our country. The importance of this successful termination of the expedition to this section can be scarcely estimated. The fine body of grazing and agricultural lands on Upper Mad River can now be occupied without danger to life or stock; trade and travel can be resumed in safety, our Weaverville mail will arrive with regularity and hunters can enjoy their sport without the fear of being waylaid by the skulking savage. But it is admitted on all hands that it was a more difficult undertaking to subdue those Indians than was at first anticipated. The expedition took the field on the 25th of October last, the officers being of the opinion that five or six weeks, or two months at most would end the trouble. Under this impression many men entered the company who have sustained serious pecuniary loss by being away from their mining claims, and other occupations. The winter has been severe and he campaign a hard one. It has been pushed to the utmost of physical endurance. Captain Messic knows no such word as fail, and with a man of less bravery and ambition, success would have been doubtful. In fact, all of the officers and men have shown themselves true to the cause. All that remains now to be done is for the Legislature to liquidate the demands against the State of California incurred by this expedition at once, which we are satisfied they will do. We have shown on former occasions that all possible economy has been used, and every debt contracted under the immediate superintendence of General Kibbe himself. In addition to paying the actual expenses of the expedition, the volunteers should be remunerated. The pittance allowed them by the State has all been taken up, being scarcely sufficient to keep them in clothing, and it is certainly hard that men should expose themselves to the dangers and trials they have endured without some pay. We hope our Representative will show his hand in this matter. (Note: The 160 prisoners were shipped to Round Valley in Mendocino County, where a reservation had been established. It was the belief of the captors the Indians would remain there. In a matter of a few months a greater part had filtrated back into Humboldt County and were again with their tribesmen.) Head Quarters Humboldt Military District Fort Humboldt January 12th 1862 Major R.C. Drum Assistant Adjutant General Department of the Pacific U.S. Army Major: We landed here on the 9th inst. in a drenching rain. I found the Fort filled with the two companies from Fort Seward; one of the 2d Cavalry C.V. The other of the 3d Infantry C.V. Major McGarry, 2d Cav. C.V. Commanding, having been driven here by the want of provisions, as has been already reported to you. As the ground about here was everywhere in a state of partial inundation, it was impossible to try to put my own two companies in tents; so I directed Qr. Master Swasey to hire buildings enough at Bucksport (about a quarter of a mile south) to furnish shelter for the troops and for his stores. Finding room at the Fort for myself and my staff, I established the command at Bucksport as a Company under Capt. Douglas, and continued Major McGarry in command at the Fort. For particulars I respect to the hire of the buildings, and the state of the public property at this post, I beg leave to refer to Mr. Swasey's report by this express to Col. Babbitt. The horses of the cavalry company are at present entirely unfit for service being exhausted by continued short forage at Fort Seward, and the great fatigue of reaching here over a route almost impassable from the recent freshets. Some 20 of them, it is thought will have to be condemned, the remainder may be efficiently recruited in a month to be fit for service. If this should not be the case, I may have to send the company into the field dismounted. From all accounts, the state of the roads (or rather, trails) and of the creeks is such that it will take thirty days at least of dry weather to make active operations possible. I have some seven applications already for new posts, and may more, it seems, are coming in. With the few troops I have, if I establish any new ones, it will be only in cases of urgent necessity. The state of things in this District may be summed up in a few words: There are several, perhaps many, thousands of Indians scattered through the forests and mountain gulches with which the whole country is covered. These Indians, or some, among them, are constantly committing depredations on the whites, stealing or killing their stock and occasionally murdering them, sometimes for vengeance, sometimes for the sake of getting their arms or clothing. There are white men that associate with them, living with squaws, that are constantly furnishing them with arms and ammunition, and sometimes encourage and join them in their depredations and attacks upon the citizens. These Indians are not divided into any considerable tribes, with responsible Chiefs; but are made up of numberless rancherias or villages, in many cases speaking totally different languages. There are so many of them, they are so scattered about, and so hard to find, that to bring them all in by sending from time to time small parties or independent detachments after them, it would take about as long as it would to bring in all the coyotes or squirrels. On the other hand, there are many whites that are constantly killing Indians, often making up parties for that purpose, and as many of the women and children, perhaps, as "bucks." Individuals and parties are moreover constantly engaged in kidnapping the Indian children, frequently attacking the rancherias and killing the parents for no other purpose. This is said to be a very lucrative business, the kidnapped children bringing good prices, in some instances, Mr. Hanson tells me, hundreds of dollars apiece. In deciding what is to be done, the question of "Which are the aggressors" in this chronic warfare, the Indians or the whites, is entirely immaterial. It is plain that they never can live together in peace. The Indians must be all removed, for their own sakes, and for the sake of the whites; and the sooner they are removed, the better. The Klamath, the Nome Cult, and the Mendocino Reservations, are still too near. The Indians carried thither have all soon returned to their usual haunts; at least, all the wild and more dangerous ones; and these return worse than they went, having acquired the taste of beef, and learned to covet many articles they were before ignorant of. If they could all be transported to the Tejon Reservation, or, still better to some one of the Santa Barbara Islands, they could never return hither again. The only question is how to bring them in. This can never be done, in my opinion, by isolated operations by independent detachments; at least it could require years to do it, the sacrifice of many lives and of much treasure. I have not yet had time to consider the subject maturely; but I cannot help thinking that the object might possibly be accomplished in a certain way in a very short time, say three months. My plan would be a general and vigorous campaign, combined as follows: The Coast Range, which bounds this District on the East is in winter, covered with snow, which is so deep in all the passes into the Sacramento Valley, as to constitute an impassable barrier on that side. In the Ocean, the Indians would have an impassable barrier on the West also. If, while one body of troops was marching southwardly from the north, in as many detachments as the number of trails or the nature of the country might require, another body should advance to meet them, in a similar manner from the South, say from Sonoma and Napa counties, the Indians (except a few straggling parties that might escape, through the intervals, and whose subsequent capture or destruction would not require much time and effort) would be completely hemmed in, and would be obliged to surrender; whether with, or without fighting. And, I either case, the object would be attained. A small number of would probably suffice to watch the few practicable passes that might exist in the Coast Range. By means of the telegraph, which extends as far north as Weaverville, Trinity County only about 100 miles from this place, the operations of the different corps could be easily combined. If operations be delayed till spring, when the Coast Range will be clear of snow, a much larger force will be required to guard the passes on that side. As to what number of troops would be required to carry this plan into execution, I will be better prepared to report when the traveling shall be sufficiently improved to enable me to reconnoitre the country. To save time, some other officer might be employed to reconnoitre the Southern portion of the District. I would respectfully suggest that between this plan, and the passive policy of posts, which can only keep the evil to a certain extent in check, without eradicating it, there is no alternative. The weather has now become cold and dry. If it should continue so for two or three weeks, it might be possible for troops to take the field. Britton and Rey's map of California of 1860 was stolen from me on my arrival here. I have sent down for another one. Meanwhile, if you can send me a topographical or other full map of this section of the country, it would be highly useful to me. Very respectfully Your Obt Servt FRANCIS J. LIPPITT Col. 2d Infty C.V. Comdg. Humboldt Mil. District P.S. Of course, against a civilized foe, acquainted with the art of war, the plan proposed would be very faulty; involving double exterior lines of operations, and exposing the two corps to be beaten successively. But the Indians here are no more capable of such a combination than the wild beasts of the forests. Shall I send copies of all my District Orders to Head Quarters? HISTORICAL RECORD OF THE VESSELS OF THE PACIFIC LUMBER COMPANY By Clarice Doolaege Very few of us today can look back to the years prior to 1914 when the railroad that connected with the several states first came to Humbolt County. This was a time when the only commercial with the world, as far as Humbolt county was concerned, was by water. This was the period when the Hammonds the Carsons, the Hoopers, the Charels Nelsons, the and many others too numerous to mention were struggling to build there empires and to get there product to market. This was a day of small ships: first the small sailing schooners and later on the steam schooners. The first steam schooners were nothing more than a sailing schooners with small compound steam engines applied as auxiliary power, but later as the engine became more acceptable and sails were being discontinued, the vessels were being built to a standard quite different then that of a sailor. There was usually a fair wind on the run south down to San Francisco, however, the trip north was made against the prevailing Northwest trade wind and it was here where the steam schooner really came into its own as it was really the time saver. This story has to do with the vessels that have been owned by the Pacific Lumber Company. Some of them were wholly owned and some only partially owned as it was the policy in the early days to grant partial ownership to the builders, the chandlers, the masters and business partners and friends. It was a regret that more was not written about this era. The Pacific Lumber Company made its first shipment of lumber in 1887 from Fields Landing and the company through three different ownerships was destined to continue to ship all of its shipments for the next 28 years. During this time there was many periods of frustrations. It seemed that the supply and demand were never equal. Such periods like the Klondike boom in 1898, the San Francisco fire and earthquake of 1906 and the ever increasing demand at the turn of the century in the fast building Southern California made the ownership of the of vessels as real premium, whereas there were other times, periods such as the hard times of the 90's when the ownership of any vessel was a real problem. The Pacific Lumber Company has owned or partially owned ten vessels, namely: Allen A February 22,1888 John A June 21,1893 Helen N. Kimball 1881 National City 1888 Aberdeen 1899 DesPatch 1899 Prentiss 1902 Temple E. Dorr 1907 William H. Murphy 1907 Scotia 1919 built Purchased 1935 Historical Record of the Vessels of the Pacific Lumber Company Page 2 Allen A: This vessel was launched on February 22, 1888, at the Bendixen Shipyard at Fairhaven in Humbolt Bay. She had been ordered built by the Pacific Lumber Company and was named after Allen A. Curtis, the second President of the Company who was then serving. She was a three-masted sailing schooner of 266 net tons. She was 145' in length and had a breadth of 35'. Naturally no one could know that she would every one of the vessels that the Company was later to own, but she did. She was sold after a few years to the Alaska Codfishing Company and was used for many years fishing in the Bering Sea. She was a vessel of many troubles being plagued by fire and wrecks on the coastline of Kodiak and the Barinoff Islands, but she always came back. In Dec., 1919, she was sold to H. Liebes of San Francisco and placed in the fur trading business. The Liebe Company obtained permission from the commissioner of Navigation on February 19, 1920, to change her name to "Fox". She was only used for about two years and was then anchored in March of 1924, she was sold to the William Fox VaudeVille Company of New York and was used in the making of movies. Late in 1925, she was unrigged and sold to Egbert and Streeter of Los Angeles for use as a fishing barge. She remained in registry until 1955 through many owners, always as a fishing barge in Southern Cal. The Allen A was destroyed in 1956 on Long Beach Breakwater when she broke loose in a storm. Her life span totaled some 63 years. John A: This was the next vessel to enter the life of the Pacific Lumber Company. She was launched from Peter Mathews Shipyard at the foot of "K" Street in Eureka on June 21, 1893. She was christened by Miss Katie Mathews and named after John A. Sinclair, the first General Manager and Superintendent of the Company. She was a three masted sailing schooner of 268 net tons, 131' in length and 32' in breadth, slightly smaller than the Allen A. The Humbolt Times of July 20, 1894, carried this article on the John A. Quote: "With her last trip outgoing July 7th, the schooner John A completed her first year of service and during that time has carried more lumber from this port than any other sailor of our numerous fleet. Her maiden voyage was made on July 12, 1893, when she sailed to San Francisco with 324,675 feet of lumber, 526,000 shingles and 23,675 shakes. On the following day she arrived at her destination having made the voyage down in 30 hours. John A. completed her first year of service and during that time has carried more lumber from this port than any other sailor of our numerous fleet. Her maiden voyage was made on July 12, 1893, when she sailed for San Francisco with 324,675 feet of lumber, 526,000 shingles and 23, 675 shakes. On the following day she arrived at her destination having made the voyage down in 30 hours and since has been making regular trips. During the year she has taken 13 cargoes to San Francisco amounting in all to 5,122,638 feet lumber tally or an average of 394,000 feet per trip." Historical Record of the Vessels of the Pacific Lumber Company Page 3 With the introduction of the stream schooner on the Pacific Coast, the John A, like the ALLEN A, became too slow for a profitable operation. She was shortly sold to the Alaska Codfishing Company where she joined the ALLEN A and thus, they became two of the thirteen wooden vessels that fished the Bering Sea for many years. Shortly after Pearl Harbor, the John A was taken over by the United States Government and played a vital role in carrying supplies to out-of-the-way points in Alaska when Japanese invasion was imminent. On September 7, 1945 she was offered for sale by the War Shipping Administration, but no buyer. She laid at anchor in Lake Union for a number of years. She was finally disposed of in the Marine Digest of August 5, 1950 carried the following story: This final resting place is a few miles south of, but in sight of McNeil Island in the State of Washington close to Tacoma. The JOHN A was a proud sailor for she never in all her career relinquished canvas for auxiliary power. The steam schooner, at about the turn of the century, really came into its own here on the Pacific Coast. The average of the sailors was about a round trip a month to San Francisco, whereas the steam schooner could and many did make a trip a week. The company at this time had three vessels chartered from the George D. Grey Company in San Francisco, the PRENTISS, and ABERDEEN and DESPATCH. Shortly after the San Francisco earthquake of April 18, 1906, The Pacific Lumber Company purchased these vessels. In 1907, two more vessels were added to the fleet: TEMPLE E. DORR and the WILLIAM H. MURPHY both of which were guilt in Hoquiam, Washington for the Company, being named after early owners and directors of the Company. ABERDEEN: She was built in 1899 at Aberdeen, Washington, by John Lindstrom. She has a net tonnage of 394, length of 169 feet, a breadth of 34 feet and a a depth of 11 feet. She was two-masted and had a carrying capacity of 500,000 feet of lumber. She was sold by the company on June 30, 1911, to the Signal Steamship Company for $30,000. Her duties under this ownership was far beneath the dignity of a proud lumber carrier. She as really sold into bondage for she completed her career hauling garbage from the City of Oakland out to sea. A San Francisco newspaper of January 28, 1916, reported: Quote: "Wreckage of the steam schooner ABERDEEN which for the last five years has carried garbage from the City of Oakland to sea, was washed ashore on the beach this morning 2 1/2 miles south of the entrance to the harbor and it is believed that this wreckage tells the story of the destruction of the vessel and the loss of probably eight lives. "The ABERDEEN went out on her regular trip last night despite the terrific gale which was blowing. This was the last heard of her until the wreckage was found this morning and there is no way of ascertaining how far the vessel proceeded before meeting her fate or can the final cause be learned." WILLIAM H. MURPHY: Will just mention that she was sold on April 4, 1916, to C.C. Mengel & Bros. Company of Louisville, Kentucky for $120,000 cash. She was on the Atlantic Coast a little over two years when she was destroyed by fire on November 10, 1918, at the Port-of-Spain, Trinidad. William H. Murphy was the only person to outlive a vessel named after him that flew The Pacific Lumber Company flag. Mr. Murphy died on February 5, 1929, a little over ten years after the vessel burned. The sale of the five vessels above left the Company without ownership of any vessels. It had been difficult to keep the vessels profitably employed for the last few months of ownership and now that the railroad had come to Humboldt County, and, considering that the factory and storage facilities had been completed at Scotia, a great deal of the lumber production was now destined to move by rail instead of by vessel. The Company continued, of course, to ship certain of its production by water, but it was through the medium of purchased space or charters that these shipments were made. SCOTIA: In 1935 the Company was once more to own a vessel. All of the prior ownerships had been built of wood, but the SCOTIA was built of steel, the first and only steel vessel owned by the Company. Altogether, she made 82 voyages for the Company completing her last on November 3, 1939. She was then chartered to the Grace Lines for service in the central American coffee trade at $356 per day. She also chartered to Coastwide Lines. On July 10, 1941, she was taken over by the United States Government on a charter that extended to January 6, 1942. It was then automatically renewed because of the war. The United States Charter fee was $2 per d.w.t. per month. The steamer SCOTIA made twenty voyages while in the government service, three of them being into Alaskan waters. Her first trip north was made in January, 1942. She was mounted, temporarily, with one 37 mm anti-tank gun that was lashed down on the deck. It was manned by an Army gun crew and the only way that the gun could be aimed was to swing the ship. Her second trip north was in May, 1943. She had a full load of landing mats for an airfield. She participated in the invasion of the Island of Attu. On this occasion she was mounted with a lot better protective and combat weapons. Just eight days after the invasion, planes landed at the new airfield. On July 28, 1943, in Seattle, Washington, she was put in dry dick for two months. The government spent $500,000 equipping her for a long war. She made her third and final trip north, voyage 20, on September, 1943. She took a load of Russian lumber at Seattle. She had difficulty in finding a base that needed lumber. (Lumber of building.) The lumber was finally discharged at Attu and a partial load of general cargo was taken aboard for the Island of Shemya, 26 miles away. She arrived at Shemya, struck a rock and sunk, on December 24, 1943. Among other things, her cargo contained three reels of Marine Copper Cable, Lead Sheathed, which was to complete the cable line from Dutch Harbor at Attu. She was also carrying the beer that was to be the "Christmas Cheer" for the military personnel on Shemya. Stanwood Murphy, now president of The Pacific Lumber Company was on of he military personnel on Shemya that had to go without Christmas cheer. The fifty-two men aboard were saved by jumping from the SCOTIA to the deck of a motor driven lighter which came along side. It is a real coincidence that Stanwood Murphy was a witness to the sinking of the steamer SCOTIA and that his father, A.S. Murphy was a witness in November 1918 to the burning of the WILLIAM H. MURPHY at the Port-of-Spain, Trinidad. - - - This paper was taken from the research that has been done by Alden Ball of The Pacific Lumber Company. From THE ENGINE POWERED VESSEL W. A. Baker-Tre Tryckare Grosset & Dunlap 1965 THE STEAM SCHOONER Early voyagers venturing along the inhospitable coast of northern California glimpsed .through the heavy fogs great trees on cliffs rising from the sea. These were the primeval stands of the coastal redwood, the Sequoia sempervirens, which grew in an area that stretched north from San Francisco for about 400 miles [644 km] and reached in from the sea about 30 miles [48 km]. Cutting operations started in the early 1850's when the gold rush caused a population explosion in California. Because of the mountainous country all tansportation of the lumber had to be by sea, but there were no ports, only "dog holes." A slight headland or a clump of offshore rocks was the only protection against strong northwest winds and heavy seas sweeping in from the Pacific--that name hardly applies north of San Francisco. Small sailing schooners were first employed to carry the lumber from the mills south to San Francisco. As they rode at anchor in the dog holes with their sterns only a few feet from boiling reefs and ledges, the lumber slid from the cliffs down wooden chutes to their decks; in later days wire cables were employed. About 1880 a small steam engine was installed well aft in one of these schooners; various authorities claim the honor for five different vessels. NEWSBOY of 1888 was the first steam schooner to be launched with engines installed and it was not many years before sails were entirely discarded. Although the type retained the name of steam schooner, the sailing vessel form was also abandoned. In it's place there developed an easily driven hull, fine below the light water-line to keep the propeller under water when going north in light condition, and full above to provide good carrying capacity. Stability with large loads was also important. WILLAPA, constructed entirely of Douglas fir by Messrs. John W. Dickie and Son, Inc., at Raymond, Washington, was a typical single-ended steam schooner as developed from the first steam conversions. The first of the so-called "double-enders" with machinery amidships was constructed in 1905 but they were not commonly built until 1916. Designed to carry a large deck load of lumber, WILLAPA has a forecastle and poop to protect the ends of the load; the poop was particularly important when running heavily laden before the wind and sea down to San Francisco. Many of the lumber schooners had accommodations for passengers as for a long period there was no other means of transportation along the coast. WILLAPA was propelled by a set of three-cylinder triple expansion engines having cylinders 11 1/2 19 and 32 in. [0,292-0, 483-0, 813 m] diameter by 24 in. [0, 610 m] stroke; they developed 475 i.h.p. Steam by one oil-fired single-ended Scotch boiler. Oil fuel was introduced in the steam schooner fleet in 1893; WILLAPA carried her oil in steel tanks located in the poop to port and starboard of the machinery casing. Fires and reefs ended the career of many of the steam schooners. WILLAPA foundered in Vivorilla Cays, Honduras, on 29 October 1916. From: Henry R. Wagner's CARTOGRAPHY OF THE NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA UC Press 1937 THE NAMING OF CAPE MENDOCINO MENDOCINO (Mendocino), Cabo, in 40(27'. The discovery and the naming of this cabo is shrouded in obscurity. The usual stories that it was discovered by Cabrillo or by some ship of Vaillalobos expedition returning from the Philippines are without foundation. The earliest certain use of the name is one the Ortelius maps of 1587. In his map of America it is placed at 45 1/2( and in the world map in 54(. The latter is an obvious error of about ten degrees and one from which all this part of this map suffers. What may be an earlier mention of it is found in the Relacion of Pedro Sarmiento de Camboa as in 43(. It is impossible to assign a date to this Relacion. It treats chiefly of the attempt of the Viceroy of Peru's fleet to capture Drake in 1579, but it may have been written much later as in reality it is nothing but a relacion de servicios presented when Sarmiento was seeking advancement. He certainly never say the cabo and never claimed to. See the writer's Sir Francis Drake's Voyage, Page 490, for a full discussion of the subject. The conclusion there arrived at was that the name had probably been given to some point on the northwest coast in the neighborhood of 42( by a returning Philippine galleon sometime between September, 1581, and December, 1584, and named in honor of Lorenzo Suarez de Mendoza, Conde de Coruna, Viceroy of New Spain from October 4, 1580, to June 19, 1583. However, one more mature consideration I am inclined to believe that Sarmiento de Gamboa invented it while in London in 1585. The first person who claimed to have seen it, known to us, was Cermeno in 1595. From his account, it seems certain that the name was applied to Trinidad Head or the headland of that which forms the southern end. That there was uncertainty about it, however, is plain from the accounts of the Vizcaino expedition. Of these only two agree in placing it in latitude 41 1/3(; two put it in 41 1/2(, one somewhere near 42(. Whether the accounts refer to different points or whether the latitudes were simply estimated is uncertain, but the Cermeno, was one of the observers. He undoubtedly picked out the same place as Cermeno. When the Briggs map was issued it was found in about 40( or 41( depending on how you look at the map. This was lower than anybody with the Vizcaino expedition had placed it and although the Briggs map was a copy of the Spanish map, I think it not unlikely that Goos, who engraved this map, lowered the latitude to suit statements which were current beginning with Blundeville in 1594, that the cape was in 40(. From this time on it appeared in two places on different maps, either in 40( or 42 1/2(, sometimes in 43 1/2(. The 42 1/2( was obtained from another map of the Vizcaino expedition published in 1646 by Robert Dudley. Dudley took its location undoubtedly from John Daniall's map of 1637, as he did that of others, but Daniell's map is illegible in this quarter (at least on my photograph of it). When the Spanish explorations began on the northern coast in 1774 French maps were in use on which the cabo is laid down in about 41(41', but the Spaniards finally decided that it was farther south in the neighborhood of 40(. It was some time before opinions settled down to an agreement that it was the present Cape Mendocino at 40(27'. La Perouse located it in 40(07', and it was not until Malaspina, from a calculation at sea, located it in 40(29' that is approximated location seems to have been determined. From Humboldt County Historical Society Newsletter Humboldt Harbor Light (Editor's note: This story was written especially for the News Letter by Robert Foster, 50 Todd Road, Cohasset, Massachsetts in collaboration with William R. Osbourne, 1019 S.E. 12th Avenue, Deerfield Beech, Florida, and Carl Christensen, Eureka.) Viewed from the air, Humboldt Bay appears as a large body of water with a very narrow entrance at the south end. From the sea, however all traces of the entrance disappear into the coastline. Early explorers such as Heceta and Vancouver, sailed right by without noticing it and it wasn't until about 1800 that it was discovered by land by the Russian-American Fur Company. The first vessel into the bay, however was an American ship, the O'Cain of Boston under the command of Jonathan Winship. Chartered to the Russian company this vessel was a product of the fabulous North River shipyards in Massachusetts several of which discovered and explored the Pacific Northwest. The bay was then "lost" and in the late 1840's, explorers set out to find a good anchorage somewhere between San Francisco and the Columbia River. Finally in 1849 Humboldt Bay was again discovered; again by land. The ship General Morgan entered the bay on April 5, 1850, and from then on things moved quickly; the town of Eureka being founded the following month. On March 3, 1851, Congress appropriated $15,000 for a lighthouse at "Humboldt Harbor" and it would have probably been lighted at the end of that year making it the first lighthouse on the Pacific Coast of the United States. However, it was not to be. Delays and mistakes were the growing pains of the brand new state of California and the Oregon Territory. A year went by; then Congress began asking about the lighthouse contracts here. On April 24, 1852, Secretary of the Treasury, Thomis Corin, sent in a rather discouraging answer which reads in part: "...after much difficulty and delay in consequence of the limited appropriations made for the purpose a contract was executed by the Department for the erection of lighthouses at the following points, viz: Alacatraz island, Point Conception, Battery point, Monterey, Faralones, Humbolt harbor and San Diego in the State of California, and at... "...the contractors, after various attempts to made the heedful arrangements for carrying the contract into effect, and to furnish the stipulated security, has, in consequence been canceled...the amount appropriated by Congress entirely inadequate for the proper completion..." Humboldt Harbor Light Page 2 as a result, congress voted $59,430 on August 4,1854, to complete the "lighthouse on the coast of California and Oregon." Finally , in 1856, the Humboldt Bay Lighthouse was erected and lighted. It was a 45 foot high masonry tower with the one and a half story masonry dwelling built around it giving the appearance that the tower was built on the roof; the whole structure was painted white. Always known as the Humboldt Harbor Lighthouse, it stood near the end of the low sandy North spit. A close view of the lighthouse shows a ring around the tower just above the roof which gives a conjecture that it was raised in height at one time. A search in the archives produced no proof of such, and, in fact, no plans or contract for building this light station were found either. Humboldt Harbor Lighthouse shone a fixed or steady white light from a four order fixed (non-revolving) Fresnel lens from 53 feet above the sea where it was visible on a clear night for 13 miles. The lens was similar to that of a ship's running light, having a central belt bullseye with prisms above and below it but it was larger, measuring 19 and one half inches in diameter. The lamp had one large tubular wick and, at this time, the fuel being used in lighthouses was vegetable oils. But many of the West Coast locations could not be found by the Service and several lights used whale oil; the whales being caught offshore by nearby towns. In fact, one like one lighthouse had to shut down for a while from lack of fuel. lighthouse fuel was sperm whale oil until 1852 when the scarcity of the whales caused the price to rise too high and then various types of vegetable oils were used. in 1862, colza, oil from the seed of a wild cabbage; was used only to give way to lard oil between 1864 and 1867 and between 1877 and 1885, kerosene became the major fuel oil. The names of the keepers and the dates of their appointments to the Humboldt Harbor Light were taken from the archives files: They were D.M. Pearce (or Pierce), May 16,1854; J. Johnson, April 12, 1856; Mrs. Sarah E. Johnson, February 25 ,1859; G.H. Nye, December 31, 1863; A.P. Marble, January 29, 1869, George Sceva, October 10, 1874; Thomas J. Winship (Acting), August 9, 1875; William Daykin October 23,1877; William C. Price (Acting), December 13, 1883; William C. Price, May, 26 1884; Tony Schmoll (Acting ), November 10 1891; Tony Schmoll , May 5, 1892; Charles C. Bruhehl (Acting), September 10,1913; J.E. Lind, October 16, 1913; Charles C Bruehl, June 18, 1916; B.H. Linne, July 12, 1920. Page 3 missing in hardcopy Humboldt Harbor Light Page 4 NEWS NOTES FROM THE PAST Captain S.G. Whipple, 1st Cavalry, Commanding Ft. Klamath, left here on Friday lst, says the Jacksonville Sentinel of the 16th, enroute for Fort Vancouver having been ordered there as a member of a court martial. Captain Whipple was in 1863-64 a colonel of a battalion of volunteers in Humboldt County. Doing splendid service against the Hoopas and other tribes. His service being recognized, he was selected to fill a captaincy in the regular army, serving in Arizona under Crook, and taking part in the whole of the Nez Perce campaign very credibly to himself. The colonel was at one time editor of The Humboldt Times and is well known throughout Northern California as a genial and cultivated gentleman. --The Humboldt Times, May 3, 1879 LAUNCH OF THE SCHOONER MORNING CLOUD.--The little schooner Morning Cloud launched from Bendixsen's shipyard at Fairhaven a few weeks since is loaded and ready for the sea, bound for Tahiti. She is the prettiest little craft ever built on this Bay and is 54 feet in length, 18 feet in breadth, five depth of hold and measures 31 tons. She is commanded by Captain Christiansen, and will sail today. --The Evening Telephone, November 11, 1882. WHO OWNS IT?--During the recent flood a barn lodged on the farm of Wm. Barnett, at Sandy Prairie. The barn was built of split lumber and contained a set of double harness, saddle, small seed-sower, wagon seat (good one), lots of leaf tobacco, and some peas, barley and hay. Mr. Barnett desires the owner to remove the same. --The Humboldt Times, March 22, 1879. From: "Historic Ship Disasters of California Coast Recalled" The Humboldt Times, 1954 "Stormy Humboldt" was the name applied at one time to this region by deep sea shipping. Many marine disasters, with consequent loss of lives and property, have occurred off the Humboldt coast. One of the most spectacular, perhaps was the wreck of the U.S.S. Milwaukee, which went aground on the Samoa beach on January 17, 1917. For years she remained there half submerged, a mecca for sightseers. Another U.S.S. ship was the "H-3", which ground on Samoa beach on December 14,1916. She was salvaged. One of the worst of the disasters, was the torpedoing of the "Emidio," a tanker, 20 miles off Blunt's Reef, on December 20 ,1941. She was hit by a torpedo fired by a Japanese submarine and the crew was brought into Eureka. The ship itself broke up at sea and parts of the wreckage drifted as far north as Crescent City. One of the earliest wrecks was that of the steamer "Commodore Preble," which went ashore on the north spit of Humboldt bar in the year 1851. The bark, "Cornwallis," was wrecked on Humboldt bar in 1852. "Albert and Edward," a schooner, capsized on the bar on April 18,1876. Many lives were lost in some of the disasters. On January 5,1860, the steamer "Northerner" went ashore at Centerville Beach, with the loss of 33 lives. Fourteen lives were lost when the schooner "Dashaway" was wrecked at Cape Mendocino on January 23, 1864; 13 were lost when the tug "Merrimac" was wrecked on Humboldt bar February 22,1863; and 40 were lost when the steamer "Walla Walla" was wrecked nine miles off Cape Mendocino on January 2,1904; and the "Brooklyn" wrecked on the bar November 8, 1930, with a loss of approximately 20 hands, only one, Jorgen Frieve, being rescued. The steamer "Active" struck a rock and was beached 22 miles south of Cape Mendocino on June 5, 1863; the brigantine "Aeolus" was wrecked on Humboldt bar January 28, 1863; the steamer "Ajax" was wrecked on Blunt's Reef September 18, 1890, and the steamer "Alaska" went to Davy Jones in the same spot August 16, 1921. Oddly, in the matter of names, the steamer "Bear" was wrecked at Bear river on June 14,1916. The steam schooner "Charels Nelson" burned at Fidles Landing on April 23, 1913. Her hulk was converted to a barge. The steamer "Chico" was destroyed at Shelter Cove July 18, 1906; the steamer "Chilkat" was wreaked on Humboldt bar April 2, 1899, and the steam schooner "Cleone" met her fate in the same place April 19, 1931. Historic Ship Disasters page 2 On July 21, 1907, the steamer "Columbia" was rammed by the "San Pedro" 16 miles south of Point Gorda. While trying to cross the Eel river bar, the steamer "Continental" was wrecked on December 12, 1877; the schooner "Corinthian" was driven ashore three miles north of Humboldt bar on June 11, 1906, and the steamer "Corona" was wrecked on Humboldt bar on March 1, 1907. " Daisy Matthews," a steam schooner , went ashore off Trinidad Head on May 5, 1940, and the steam schooner "Daisy Putnam" was wrecked at Point Gorda on November 22, 1929. Two lives were lost when the schooner "Edward Parker" went to pieces in 1880; the schooner "Everrett" was destroyed by fire four miles south of Table Bluff, October 26, 1926, and six lives were lost when the schooner "Fidelity" capsized on Humboldt bar November 16, 1889. Two lives were lost when the bark "Hartford" was wrecked in 1864; and the bark "Home" went to pieces on the south spit in 1852. Another bark "Jane," went ashore on the north spit in 1851. The brig "John Clifford" also hit the north spit in 1852. The schooner "Katherine Donovan" was wrecked on the south jetty on January 29, 1941. Seven lives were lost in the wreck of the schooner, "Laura Pike" in 1878 , and four perished in the wreck of the schooner "Mexican" on Humboldt bar in 1853. Fire destroyed the schooner "Redwood" off Humboldt bar on September 18, 1939 ; the schooner "Sotoyome" was burned at the north spit December 7, 1907, and the steamer "Sea Gull" went ashore on the north spit in 1852. Other bar disasters include the steam schooner "Tiverton," which hit the south jetty on January 19, 1933, and her hulk was burned on February 3; the schooner "Toronto," which capsized on the bar on May, 17 1856; the schooner "Washington," which hit the south jetty on February 11, 1932 and her hulk was afterward burned. From: The Humbolt Times April 27, 1899 The Chilkat's Cat (Part 1) If the cat that survived the wreck of the Chilkat knew the great amount of trouble it has innocently caused, the feline would surely wish that it had met a similar fate to those that perished in the disaster. It is a good thing perhaps that the cat does not know, for the knowledge would surely drive it to drink or else force a search for oblivion in some method peculiar to its kind. Seldom if ever, has a dumb animal gained such prominence or newspaper notoriety as the one in question. It the blue blood of the four-hundred of the cat kingdom coursed through its veins, then an explanation might be easily made for the great ado that has been made over the animal. But such is not the case. It boasts of no genealogy which raises it above the level of its species, or that would entitle its name to be placed in the bluebook of felines. The animal was a gift to the late captain Anderson of the streamer Chilkat by Thomas Bard of this city. after the disaster it was ascertained that the cat survived the wreck and Mr. Baird since then has been desirous of getting it into his possession. The cat disappeared from the wreck, and all efforts to locate the animal have proven futile. Notices were placed in the newspapers, but still "the cat never came" back. Charles Clark of Rohnerville called at the Humbolt Times office Tuesday morning and said he had seen a statement in the newspapers about the affair, but up to that time was unaware that the matter was of any importance. He said he had rescued the animal from the hull of the wrecked vessel, brought it up to the town and placed it in good hands, since which time he had been out of the country. He expressed his willingness to send Tabby to captain Anderson's wife, as he did not care for the animal. Mr. Baird appeared before the United States Commissioner, H. L. Ford, Tuesday afternoon and swore out a warrant for the arrest of the person that he thought had the pussy in their possession. The matter, unless a understanding is arrived at between the parties, will be heard before Commissioner Ford, who will be called upon to decide the merits of the cause celebre. from: The Humbolt Times The Chilkat's Cat May 4, 1899 Part two Charles Clark appeared before United States Commissioner Ford Wednesday and pleaded guilty to a charge of larceny for abducting the Chilkat's cat. A warrant has been sworn out by Clark by Thomas Baird and he was captured by U.S. Marshal Rager at Janes Creek, while in route to Oregon with the Gospel Wagon workers. Clark was fined the cause of the action, and upon giving $50 bonds was released. The feline was restored to Mr. Baird, who is happily in its possession once more. He intends sending the animal to Mrs. Captain Anderson. Humboldt Bay Incident Needles And Sails One day, back in October 1913, the American sailing schooner Philippine stood off Eureka in the channel of Humboldt Bay. She was completely loaded, her cargo of lumber destined for Callao, Peru; her crew was complete to the last man. She has been cleared by the custom house. However, just as the vessel was about to weigh anchor, her captain discovered the ship was short of sail needles. To set sail for Peru in October, with the glass already dropping rapidly, was to take chances of having the vessel stripped of her sails--perhaps on the first day at sea. To leave Humboldt Bay without the needles to build new sails was considered folly. To set sail for Peru in October, with the glass already dropping rapidly, was to take chances of having the vessel stripped of her sails--perhaps on the first day at sea. To leave Humboldt Bay without the needles to build new sail was considerable folly. The search was something like the old "search for a needle in a haystack." A hurried visit to Eureka business establishments, one after another, uncovered the fact that there was a temporary needle famine. None could be found. Awning makers, retired mariners, and anyone else having anything to do with canvas were called on. Finally, by late afternoon, nine needles were found. But the captain said this was just half enough. The plan to leave for sea was abandoned. The needle hunt went into the night. When the word got around that the Philippines desperately needed sail needles, the ship was flooded with them, gifts from individuals. It was only then the Philippine was able to head to sea the next day with her cargo of redwood lumber. __By Andrew Genzoli THE STORY OF THE HUMBOLDT TIMES NORTHWESTERN CALIFORNIA'S FIRST NEWSPAPER - -By Andrew Genzoli THE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS Four boisterous, hard years had passed between 1850, when the first attempt at settlement on Humboldt Bay was made, and the beginning of a small weekly newspaper, THE HUMBOLDT TIMES, which was planned to serve a growing area at that time - - a growth which has never, even to this day, ceased. In the clutter of a ten - pin alley, in the rear of the pioneer saloon, Dr. Edwin D. Coleman brought forth Volume One, Number One of Northwestern California's first newspaper. It's first home was the seaport and lumber settlement of Eureka. The Humboldt Times could have been born at least six months earlier, had not the vessel carrying the first shipment of printing equipment from San Francisco, gone ashore and wrecked on the edge of the Mendocino coast. Dr. Coleman realized his was a pioneer effort, in a truly western frontier. He never failed to point out in issues to follow, the great work being carried on by his fellow pioneers in carving a new realm out of the wilderness, filled with big rivers, giant Redwoods, fearsome mountains. They were all there, he said, and they all had great possibilities for the man willing to bend his back and apply the callused hand. Editor Coleman dedicated his little newspaper: "Devoted to Sciences, Literature, Arts, Foreign, and Domestic News and Markets, to the great features of National and State Affairs, to Domestic Economy and Home Improvement and to all matters of general interest, its chief aim being the advancement of this section of the state in general, and Humboldt Bay in particular." It is the kind of dedication which has lived beyond the century -- still very much in evidence. The first issue of The Humboldt Times was unique, as Editor Coleman explained: " Our merchants, in filling an order for material, neglected to put up the letters `v' and u', and in consequence We have had to substitute other letters, until we receive the articles wanted from San Francisco ." As a result there was an abundance of `w's' and similar substitution throughout the first issue. As a weekly publication, The Humboldt Times heralded the event of development into the new wilderness, told both the story of the Indian Wars of Northwestern California and the Civil War, which was being fought simultaneously. It told of the great Abraham Lincoln, and it carried "new" poems from the pen of Edgar Allen Poe, and in the same columns, the manifest of a sailing ship leaving Eureka with the first shipment of lumber for Tahiti. The First Hundred Years page 2 In 1873, when J. E. Wyman presided as editor and publisher, a telegraph line was built, connecting Eureka to Western Union at Petaluma. Plans were under foot for the development of a daily newspaper for this corner of California. On January 1, 1874, the first issue of The Daily Humbolt Times made its appearance. At the same time the newspaper received its first dispatches from Associated press. In the meantime the services of news correspondents from the Trinity mines, from Del Norte's coastal settlement, from the dog Holes of the Mendocino coast are found in the Times. Bylines such as "White Alder," "Nenmo," "Oracle," etc. end the various stores. Often opinion took up more space than actual news facts. News dispatches came to Eureka in bundles of newspapers from New Orleans, San Francisco, the Sandwich Islands [Hawaii], Australia, Seattle, through the courtesy of captains of ships calling on Humbolt Bay. Later we fine the Pony Express carrying dispatches from St. Joseph, Missouri to Sacramento, California, to chronicle the opening of the West. The pony Express is joined with the humming lines of the telegraph wires, as civilization pushed westward. The civil war news reached Sacramento via the pony Express, sometime was telegraphed to Weaverville, where the news notes were then sent by pack train, or mounted mail carrier to Humbolt Bay and The Humboldt Times. Often weeks elapsed between events and the day they were published in Eureka. When The Humbolt Times became a daily, The Weekly Humboldt Times retained its importance, though not as great as it was before the advent of the daily newspaper. The weekly continued to contain a roundup of the week's news, plus a number of features. The weekly continued publication into the 1990's when the entire effort of the paper was devoted to the daily edition. Today, in this modern era, The Humboldt Times is serviced with the latest in electronic equipment -- the fastest news and pictorial coverage available service this still growing Northwestern California and Southwestern Oregon. In the ranks are the valuable community correspondents covering Humboldt, Del North, Mendocino, Trinity counties in California, and Curry county in southwestern Oregon. The Times will continue to pace the making of history as the country it serves, grows. Another hundred years from now, the pages of the Times will be every bit as valuable to the historian as have been the first one hundred years of musty, but informative volumes. - - - [This was first published in 1954, marking The Humbolt Times centennial.] Journalism In Humboldt County From The Humboldt Times, March 18, 1882. History Of The Humboldt Times Record Of papers In County 1854 To 1882 Early in the year 1853 among the few who endeavored to form a settlement and built up Humboldt County, came Dr. E. D. Coleman. He was a man of nerve and ability, possessed of a good education and a literary turn of mind. Union, now Arcata, and Eureka grew rapidly, the former taking the lead and holding it for some years. When the prospects for union were the brightest, when the tide of immigration had set northward and was fast flowing into Humboldt bay, Dr. Coleman conceived the idea of starting a newspaper and furnish reading matter for the inhabitants of Northern California. With every fresh influx of people, the more favorably did he look upon and on the second day of September, 1854, he presented to the people of Humboldt County the initial number of missing text THE HUMBOLDT TIMES As Eureka was the most central point the paper was published at that place. The commercial, agricultural and mining interest of this section were then in their infancy, in fat, barely opened. the harbor was second only to that of San Francisco, from Acapulco on the south to the straits of Fuca on the north. Streamer entered the port on an average of once a month, and mail facilities were little better than none at all. With all conceivable obstacles before him, the doctor began his task. The Times was independent in politics, and he was devoted purely to the interests of the people. It was ably edited, its columns well filled with choice reading matter, and its typographical makeup excellent. Toward the close of the year, union made such rapid advancement and attained such proportions, and the county seat being located there, the Times was moved across the bay and published at union, December 23, 1854. On the 22d of December, 1855, E. D. Coleman sold out the time to Walter Van Dyke and Austain Wiley, the former taking editorial charge, the doctor taking his departure from the county and locating at Washington, D. C. These gentlemen carried on the paper until January 23, 1858, when W. Van Dyke transferred his interest to A. Wiley, the junior partner, and again took up the profession of attorney at law. Journalism Page 2 As time rolled on the business interests experienced a change of base. The great timber resources were being opened on a large scale. Mills for manufacturing lumber were established at Eureka; the county seat removed to Eureka, and it was made the principal shipping point, and immigration and the increase of business caused the village to make rapid strides in the march of progress and take upon itself the habiliments of a town. The business finger indicated Eureka as the objective point, and at the close of the fourth volume Mr. Wiley moved the Times office back to Eureka August 28, 1858, where it has been published without an omission up to the writing of this. June 9, 1860, Mr. Wiley transferred the paper to Walter Van Dyke and L. M. Burson. In '58 when the Times was moved from Union the citizens of that place were in no manner of means leased with the change, and at once made arrangements for the publishing of another paper. Accordingly, on the 15th of December, the Northern California made its appearance with S. G. Whipple as editor and proprietor. After running about eighteen months, the owners were satisfied that there was neither business nor patronage in the county to sufficiently warrant the publication of two papers, and the California was merged into the Times, July 14, 1860. L. M. Burson withdrawing from the last named paper and S.G. Whipple associating himself with Walter Van Dyke as publishers of the Times. The paper was carried on by the two gentlemen above named until March 30, 1861, when W. Van Dyke withdrew, having transferred his interest to S. G. Whipple. August 15, 1862, Whipple sold out to A. Wiley and Walter Bohall, Mr. Wiley again taking charge as editor. In April, 1864, Mr. Wiley having been elected to represent Humboldt County in the legislature, J. E. Wyman remaining the same, and on the 27th of May , Mr. Wiley transferred his interest to J. E. Wyman, the firm being Wyman and Bohall. August 19, 1865, J. E. Wyman purchased Mr. Bohall's interest and control of the paper. Business, which at that time was at a standstill, soon began to pickup and improve. A large number of people settled in the county, new industries were opened, and the march of progress was onward. The mail facilities were greatly improved, lines of streamers were placed on the route between. Journalism Page 3 the bay and San Francisco, and an era of prosperity was inaugurated. Under the management of J. E. Wyman, the Times was Republican in politics, and pursuing a consistent course, steadily worked into the good graces of the people. In 1873, a telegraph line was built from Eureka, connecting with the Western Union at Petaluma, and arrangements were made by J. E. Wyman to published a daily paper in Eureka. The line was completed and in working order the latter part of the year, and January 1, 1874, the first number of problem/something missing THE DAILY HUMBOLDT TIMES Was taken from the press and circulated. For protection, as well as to be placed in a position to receive the latest and most reliable news from all parts of the world, the Times joined the Associated Press and has received all of its dispatches from that source. On January 1, 1875, W. H. Wyman, a son of the proprietor, was taken into the business, and the firm was from that time known as J. E. Wyman & Son. The Daily Times rapidly grew in favor, and from time was enlarged to suit the increasing business. November 5, 1880, J. E. Wyman, the senior partner, who had been connected with the paper since 1864, died, and in September 1881, W. H. Wyman assumed entire control and is at the present time publisher and proprietor. The Humbolt Times is one of the oldest papers published on the coast, and has a complete file of the publication from the first issue, which is in itself a valuable record and correct history of the current events that have transpired for over a quarter of a century. It has sailed the sea that all journals have to cross; it has met adverse winds, and encountered heavy swells; it has suffered strong opposition, but pursuing a straightforward and honorable course, it is now the exponent of the people of Humbolt county and ranks among the leading interior papers of the state. A large amount of capital has been invested in the business; it is supplied with steam power, power presses, etc., and is complete in every respect. OTHER JOURNALS Since the county was organized, a host of papers have been started, but most of them failed to make the business pay, Journalism Page 4 and one by one, they, like the rose, withered and died. The first is the NORTHERN CALIFORNIAN, which was published at Union in December, 1858, by S.G. Whipple, and merged into the Times, July 14, 1860. THE HUMBOLDT BAY JOURNAL, democratic in politics, was first published September 1, 1865, Rev. J.W. Hines, editor. In December of the same year, the editorship passed into the hands of J.B. Baccus, Jr., who conducted the paper until the time of its demise, April 20, 1867. THE HUMBOLDT BAY DEMOCRAT began its career October 24, 1868, with L.M. Music & Co. at the head, and lasted three weeks. THE NATIONAL INDEX, democratic, appeared June 27, 1867, and suspended, March 14, 1868. The initial number of the NORTHERN INDEPENDENT, was laid before the public, July 22, 1869, with A.M. Parry, publisher. The tone of the paper was independent, with democratic tendencies. Later the paper passed into the hands of Eugene Russ, who carried on until August 15, 1872, when the obituary was pronounced. THE WEST COAST SIGNAL, D.E. Gordon, editor and publisher, appeared February 15, 1874. It was independent in politics, with republican leanings. October 7, 1876, the DAILY EVENING was published by Mr. Gordon until March 17, 1880, when it suspended. April 7, 1875, the DAILY STANDARD, published by R.V. Chadd, made its appearance. It claimed to be independently democratic. February 17, 1877, the daily suspended and the WEEKLY STANDARD passed into the hands of William Ayres, who at the time of writing is carrying on the paper and advocating greenback principles. During the summer of 1876, a small daily paper, THE AGE, was published by W.H. Clipperton as a free advertising sheet, but failing to make it pay, it was suspended. The material was published by J.A. Betteridge & W.W. Swinnerton. December 23, 1876, commenced the publication of the EVENING STAR as an advertising sheet. Afterwards a regular price was charging for subscription, and April 20, 1878, publication was suspended. Journalism page 5 March 22, 1879, W. B. Thrope commenced the publication of the EVENING HERALD. The paper was issued only a few months, when the office was removed to Arcata. December 21, 1881, Wiley & Heney commenced the publication of the daily and weekly TELEPHONE. The FERNDALE ENTERPRISE was published at Ferndale, May 10, 1878, by W.G. Jones & Co. It was independent in politics, with democratic proclivities. In November 1880, it changed hands. Dr. F. A. Alford taking change, at the same time changing the complexion, politically, to republicanism. August 2, 1879, Thorpe commenced the publication of the LEADER in Arcata. Shortly after the close of the first volume, the paper suspended, the editor moving away from the county. December 11, 1880, it was revived, Austin Wiley in charge. It was published one year and again suspended. W. H. Runnels commenced the publication of the ECHO at Rohnerville in 1878, and after nearly two years struggle was compelled to suspend. The materials was moved to Eureka, where A. J. Bledsoe commenced the publication of the semi-weekly NAWS in 1881. The news suspended after three month. The ROHNERVILLE HERALD was established by Charles E. Gordon, November 2, 1881, and is published weekly. Old Homes in Humboldt County May 24, 1906 THE ATKINSON HOUSE AT METROPOLITAN By Ivy D. Mengel It was sixty years ago when Tom Atkinson, a lumberman from Green Bay, Wisconsin, first arrived in Humboldt County to look around. Pleased with the prospects he found, he purchased and leased a huge block of land extending south of the rise on which the Atkinson house now stands, across the Eel River and including the Blue Slide area back of Rio Dell. He built his mill below and south of the house, and sixteen houses for his workman and their families, many of them from Wisconsin. A railroad bridge was thrown across the river, tracks were laid, trees felled, and his three engines began to The next year (1907), the house was built, mostly by his men, on the south crest of the hill above the river, and Mrs. Atkinson came out to join her husband in their new home. The house, from outside appearance, has no particular style. Like many others built in the early 1900's, it has bay windows downstairs, and small dormers upstairs, spacious and high-ceilinged rooms, and a large enclosed sun porch across the entire front facing the river and the wooded hills on the other side. It was painted a soft dove gray, with blue trim, and is still the same color. The large living room and the chapel are entered from a square hall with a window seat. Front stairs lead to the second floor, with another seat on the landing halfway up. Upstairs there is a large room, now used as a hobby and rumpus room, three bedrooms and a bath. Another stairway comes up from the back part of the house. Beamed ceilings and redwood paneling were used in the living room, dining room and chapel. Surrounding the fireplace and bookcases with glass doors, a pair of windows on either side, and continuing along the south side of the living room. Wide window seats were built beneath all the windows. Mrs. Atkinson must have enjoyed furnishing her lovely new home. She brought with her a complete set of hand painted china, a wedding gift from a Wisconsin friend, a set of Haviland and one Limognes, which she carefully arranged in the glass fronted cupboards across the end of the dining room. The Atkinson House at Metropolitan Page 2 On the floors were costly Oriental rugs, one of which is still in the house. She hung Belgian lace curtains of exquisite design, and heavy deep blue velvet draperies at the living room and dining room windows, and had thick tufted pads of the same blue velvet made for all the window seats, which are still in use by the present owners, Mr. and Mrs. Arnold Olson. Portieres from Italy made of long, vari-colored thin stones hung between the hall and the sun porch, and still reflect shining pools of colored light. Two large chandeliers with matching lamps above the fireplace lighted living room, with a third chandelier above the dining table. Carved teakwood, occasional tables stood about, on one a Cloisonne vase dating from 1767, on another a bronze Cupid, and a lamp whose base was a beautiful urn. The master bedroom still contains an unusual low vanity dresser with a tall mirror, and two tall, narrow matching chests which Mrs. Atkinson imported from France. Off this room is a huge bathroom, containing an immense marble tub on claw feet. I was fortunate in my research on the Atkinson house, and Mrs. Olson was most helpful, and delighted with the idea of learning more about her home. Together we went to interview Mrs. Ralph Johnson, who knew everything about the Atkinson and was eager to talk about them. Bertha Johnson began working as a hired girl in the Atkinson house in 1913 when she was only seventeen, and stayed there, except for a few short intervals, until 1959. Following Mr. Atkinson's death in 1929, she became Mrs. Atkinson's companion. When Mrs. Atkinson died in 1940, she left her home to Bertha, who later Ralph Johnson, same name but no relation. The Olsons purchased the place in 1959. Though the disastrous flood of 1964 did not get into the house, the beautifully landscaped grounds were ruined. Gone are the large Hawthorne trees, the huge old magnolia, the tall palms, the Japanese redleaf plum trees, the old rhododendrons, the rock garden and fish pond. Left are several large camellias east of the house, a few clumps of white daffodils, one clump of pink violets and a twisted wisteria vines. Mrs. Johnson told me several lively stories about the happenings in the old house. On Christmas in 1913, fifty guests were present. The entertainment was an amateur play performed in dining room. At it's conclusion, the guests were given vegetables and confetti to throw to the actors in lieu of the customary flowers. At this same party, the late Mrs. Friedenbaugh of Fortuna and Mrs. Atkinson danced a jig, accompanied by Father Gaffney on his violin. The Atkinson House at Metropolitan Page 3 The Atkinson held open house for all their neighbors and friends on their thirty-fifth wedding anniversary. Whenever the priest came to say mass, Mrs. Atkinson would invite friends in afterwards for hamburgers, as Father Ducham was fond of them. One day, Mrs. Atkinson rushed in at ten o'clock and asked Bertha to have a special luncheon at noon for the Vances (he of lumbering interests). Bertha hurriedly sent the chauffeur for groceries, and proceeded to cook the desired menu, which must have pleased the guests for Mrs. Atkinson gave Bertha a thousand dollar check that afternoon when they had gone. Mrs. Atkinson was very generous. Her husband was a little closer with his money. Mrs. Atkinson was proud of her home, and decorated it lavishly for the holidays, once winning first prize when Fortuna used to have the Christmas Caravan. Devout Catholics, the Atkinsons had a chapel in their home. It must have been a beautiful place. Eight by fifteen feet in size, it was paneled in redwood, with Chinese red embossed paper above the paneling. Gold velvet curtains covered the wall behind the gold and white altar, which could be folded for moving. The altar stood a step above the floor which was carpeted with an Oriental rug, soft gray in color, with gold, blue and red floral design. This is the rug still in the house. A large crucifix stood on the altar flanked by gold candlesticks. Bertha Johnson has these, also the silver bell used in the service, and it has an unusually sweet tone. There were several short pews with high backs made of redwood. Here it is interesting to note that the altar and crucifix were made by Mr. Arthur Johnson whose brother Bertha married long after. Arthur built the Viking Ship now on display at the Fairgrounds in Ferndale, and which created such a furor when he took it to San Francisco and sailed it on the bay a year or so ago. Across the archway into the hall hung draperies made of a gorgeous handmade paisley shawl from Scotland. It is rather unusual and expensive to have hung a chapel in the home. The Pope was paid $50,000 and the bishop from Sacramento $10,000 when he came to bless the house before the altar could be installed. Only three rooms were blessed, the chapel, the big room upstairs and the sun porch. Two vestments were kept for the priests: a black one and a white one, each heavily embroidered in gold. Father Ducham was usually the priest who conducted the service. I understand from Mrs. Johnson that the altar was given to a Father in Arcata and it may still be in the church there. Mr. Atkinson's niece, Nydia Corcoran, was married before the altar, which was moved into the sun porch for the ceremony performed by Father Ducham. Nydia thus became a member of the Flood family of San Francisco. She was about thirty-five at the time, and had four children, two boys and two girls she had adopted from the famous "Cradle" in Chicago, and for each of who she had to establish a ten thousand dollar trust fund as she was single at the time of adoption. The wedding breakfast and champagne was served to twenty-six guests. Mr. Atkinson teased the groom about his acquiring four children without a pain. In 1911, Mr. Atkinson built a large hotel some distance East of his home to house his woodmen and mill hands. When it burned badly damaged by the 1964 flood. The lower floor is covered with silt and debris. In later years, up to about 1960, it was used as a Catholic school for boys. It is sad to see the broken status of the Holy Figures lying on the hardened silt. Both the Atkinsons were kind people. He frequently gave meals to tramps and a job, too, if they would work. One Thanksgiving, Mrs. Atkinson told Mr. Parks, the grocer at Alton, to provide Thanksgiving dinner for nine tramps camping under the bridge. He charged her two dollars a dinner, so it must have been quite a feast. Mr. Atkinson had money and made more. At one time he owned the Rockefeller Grove, the Flat Iron Tree and the former biggest redwood in addition to his Eastern and local holdings and his Metropolitan Mill. He loved horses. He had three stallions, a gray, a black and a sorrel shipped by train from Green Bay to San Francisco, then by boat to Fields Landing. He trained them on the old Rohnerville race track before building a track of his own below Hydesville on Starvation Flat. One of his horses ran at the State Fair in Sacramento and was a big winner. He grew hay for them on his ranch across the river and drove them back and forth over his log railroad bridge. The Metropolitan trains had several wrecks enroute from the Blue Slide area to his mill. One engine was wrecked when it ran away on the down grade, killing three men. Another time, Mr. Atkinson was in the cab of the engine when it gained too much momentum down hill. The engineer told him to jump. When he didn't jump at once, the engineer pushed him out, then jumped out himself. To their chagrin, the train ran out on the bridge and stopped. In 1927, Mr. Atkinson shut off his mill, which burned down during dismantling. Two years later he died. Mrs. Atkinson stayed on in the house, though she traveled abroad extensively, and was a frequent San Francisco visitor. She owned a priceless strand of matched opals, which was stolen from her hotel room in San Francisco and never recovered. She wore these opals in the picture taken on her thirty-fifth wedding anniversary which is now in Mrs. Johnson's home where I saw it. Mrs. Atkinson had gray hair and a serene and kind face. Her husband wore a mustache. Neither of them were very tall, and she was a little plump. As a result of her travels and devotion to her faith, Mrs. Atkinson built and gave four churches in Europe and one in China. She also gave a school to a parish in Oakland, and built another church in Yerington, Nevada. The same Arthur Johnson made and carved the alter for this church. At her death in 1940, the casket was brought to the chapel in her home, where it remained for two days. Both the Atkinsons are buried in Green Bay. Most of their fortune, aside from a few bequests, was inherited by a nephew of Mr. Atkinson. Mrs. Johnson, who had become companion and friend of Mrs. Atkinson in later years, was now the new owner of the house and its possessions. She kept them intact until 1959, when she and her husband moved to a new and smaller home south of the Eel River Trailer Park at the foot of Drake Hill road, where she lives today. The present owners, the Olsons, love the old house. Mrs. Olson has added her own individual touch, combining modern ideas of decor with the old. The lights from the old chandeliers gleam, the old paneling grows softer with age. Mrs. Atkinson made it a beautiful home from the beginning, and it became more beautiful through the years, and it is a jewel of a house today, treasured and lived in, and loved. --Ivy D. Mengel May 17, 1966 THE POINSETT HOUSE ON FICKLE HILL Despite its proximity to Arcata and the constant traffic through it, the Fickle Hill area remained virtually unsettled for nearly half a century after the discovery of Humbolt Bay. When the first white settlers came to Union, the old Indian trail led almost directly east from the north end of the bay, across the coastal mountains, to the interior valleys. Early packers made immediate use of the trail in carrying supplies to the mines on Trinity River. The first ten miles of the trail went through solid redwood forest, a most uninviting prospect for settlers looking for farms. Decades went by before anyone chose to make a home in this area. Probably the first to start building was Dr. W. Y. Fickle who built a shingle mill on the trail about two and a half miles from town This necessarily led to the end of the century, which much of the land had been logged, ambitious men bought parcels of land and began clearing away the stumps and brush to create farms. One of the first of these settlers was Joseph B. Poinsett. His house, still neat and sturdy, stands as a well-preserved landmark on Fickle Hill Road. It was built in 1903 in the fashion of that period with a generous front porch and much molded trimming. It is so situated as to afford e of the grandest panoramic views imaginable of the ocean, the bay, Arcata and Eureka, and the mountains to the south. Joseph Poinsett, a native of New Jersey, came to Humbolt as a young man. During the Civil War years he served as a sawyer and foreman for William Carson, then bought a farm at Alliance, and finally ended his days on Fickle Hill. He died in 1912 and his wife, with the aid of a son, carried on the he had started. Mrs. Poinsett, whose maiden name was Flora Brown, came as a child with her parents and grandparents, the Handys, across the plains by ox-team and were among the very first to arrive in the Arcata area. __By LaVerne Larson From REDWOODS AWAY Dr. Ernest E. Stanford GREAT BRITAIN--The earliest substantial history of sequoia planting starts in Great Britain. At Smeaton-Hepburn in East Lothian, Scotland, a redwood was planted in 1844. For five guineas an English nursery provided a foot-high coast redwood seedling that was set out at Dropmore in Buckinghamshire in 1845. Most British trees are specimens or in small groves on estates. At the Wellington family estate, Stratfield Saye in Hampshire, there is a massive tree with the label: WELLINGTONIA GIGANTEA CALIFORNIA, Planted by Her Grace the Duchess of Wellington, April 24th, 1857. The tree is (in 1958) 23 feet in girth and 125 feet high. SPAIN--Early history of Spanish contact with California suggests possibly somewhere in Spain may be the oldest redwoods outside the United States. A tree in the gardens of Generalife in Granada was reported roughly at 125 feet in height and 4 feet in diameter. This was in 1926. In 1958, the tree stood at 115 feet height, indicating the first observer had over-estimated, and 18.5 feet girth. In Granada, Southern Spain, there is a small, flourishing forest of Sierra redwoods. Large specimens of age appear in gardens in La Granja in Segovia an din Salamanca. FRANCE--The coast redwood apparently reached France about the time it appeared in England. Some of the largest are near the seacoast in northern France. A specimen planted in 1849 in Fremont Arboretum, Brix (manche) is about 100 feet high and nearly 14 feet in circumference. One less definitely dated at Chateau du Val Richer at St. Quen le Pin (Calvados) is slightly larger. At Chateau of Comte de Vibrage at Chiverny (loir et Cher) is an avenue of 50 trees each about 100 feet high and around 10 feet in circumference. The Sierra big tree is more common in French estates. GERMANY--Nex the Great Britain, it may be that Germany has the largest dispersal of Sierra redwoods. The coast tree is not reliably hardy in that country, but the giant sequoia has captured the attention of park and forest authorities. A century for one in Oldenburg near Bremerhaven was celebrated a few years ago. Seedlings from high California elevations are the hardier types for Germany's cold weather. SCANDINAVIA--The Netherlands, Denmark and southern Sweden are within the latitudes in which sequoias survive in Great Britain, but in general winters are more severe. Repeated efforts have been made to establish sequoias in Denmark, and specimens have occasionally reached an age of 80 years and a height of 100 feet. SWITZERLAND--Sequoia Gigantea is occasional in the lower altitudes. Some are of size in Interlaken. They are often seen in villa grounds along the Swiss lakes, where some lean precariously. AUSTRALIA--In North Tyrol two specimens of Sequoia gigantea probably planted in the last century withstood temperatures at low as -22 degrees in 1928-29. Two coast redwoods are in the Botanical Garden of University of Vienna in spite of smoke, soot and bad soil conditions. CZECHOSLOVAKIA--Hard winters have made it difficult for coast redwoods to survive. Some redwoods are ten areas, including the tallest in Vaslov in Slovakia. ITALY--The coast redwood is a frequent thing in the region of the Lombard Lakes in northern Italy. One of the largest seen in Europe was at Isola Madre in Lake Maggiore. It was then (1906) 104 feet high. Other good specimens appear in the Arno Valley and near Rome and Naples. PALESTINE--Seedlings planted out in Israel failed to survive. Pacific Coast trees have, in general, not done well in the mountain soils of Palestine. Lack of fog, rainfall, etc. AFRICA--In northern Africa, Sequoia sempervirens was planted in 1864 at elevations of about 2800 feet at Djebel Ouach in Algeria. Observed in 1928, it was said to have attained less growth than those in Europe. The Coast redwood has been successful in the Union of South Africa. Kenya experiments, unsuccessful. The first record of this species (coast) Union of South Africa made in 1900. One specimen under especially favorable conditions reached 85 feet high in 27 years. AUSTRALIA--German botanist and horticulturist, Baron Ferndinand von Mueller, 1857, director of Botanic Gardens, Melbourne, Victoria, catalogued a sequoia sempervirene. None of the older plantings survived. Sequoia sempevirens and Sequoia gigantea were quite widely planted in Australia as specimen trees and can be found in the south-east part of the country, that is, the southern tablelands of New South Wales, a good deal of Victoria and Tasmania and a little bit of South Australia. NEW ZEALAND--Planting of redwoods begun about 1900, and then only on a small scale near Rotorua. SOUTH AMERICA--The Sierra redwood is grown successfully at the Escuela Agropecuaria Salesiania at San Domingo, Rio Grande, Tierra del Fuego, and at Punta Arenas in Chile. The locations are about 54 degrees and 53 degrees south latitude, about as far from the South Pole as northern England is from the North Pole. Sequoia gigantea does well in the Antarctic forest region of the southern Andes in Argentina. Both sequoias have been used in city plantings in Santiago and Valparaiso, Chile, although the coast redwood often fails to thrive. Sequoia sempervirens is cultivated in Buenos Aires and Montevideo. Both species introduced in limited way by the Sao Paulo State Forest Service in Brazil. HAWAII--Both species of sequoia have been planted in Hawaii beginning in the early 1920's. The Sierra redwood has not proved satisfactory. Plantations of Sequoia sempervirens in the islands of Maui, Kauai, and Cahu established in 1927 have reached (in 1958) about 100 feet in height and a diameter of 38-40 inches. These were set out for forest cover and watershed protection , but are now being considered for limited lumber use. MEXICO--In tropical latitudes nearer home, sequoias have not been successful in Cuba and Puerto Rico. In Chapultepec Park, Mexico City, about 50 coast redwoods were planted about 40 years ago. These are reported to have reached a healthy growth of about 100 feet--which would correspond quite closely to their success at Stockton. The altitude of Mexico City is about 7800 feet, and the average temperature 68 degrees. A number of redwoods is being planted at a slightly higher elevation in Mexico. These are Sierra redwoods. CANADA--A few comments on Canadian experiments with sequoias may complete the account of their plantings outside the continental United States. The climate of the southern coastal portion of British Columbia is chillier than that of our own latitudes, but the lowest recorded temperature at Victoria in 52 years is 6 degrees. This not below the usual limits of Sequoia gigantea, but is a risky situation for the coast redwood. According to a representative of the Forest Service of British Columbia, Sierra redwood seed from California reached Victoria about 1866, and the tree is now a common feature of the planted flora. In and about the city, young coast redwoods usually soon winterkill, although one mature specimen is reported in that area. Southern Vancouver Island, however, is hardly typical Canada. Over mountains, prairies, and farmlands eastward temperatures extremes are more sever, with below zero winter temperatures the rule rather than the exception. A young coast redwood planted in Ottawa in 1947 survived until 1951. Eureka Sketch Sheila Westman PIONEER SALOON--CIVIC CENTER Along with the high-spirited pioneer settlers to Humboldt Bay, came bottled courage. As a result, the first groggery on the primitive shore was as some of its users. The forerunner to the first saloon was a huge Redwood stump in which a variety of whisky, rum, wine, and other alcoholic "necessities" were kept. Men who worked in James Talbot Ryan's mill-- the converted Steamer Santa Clara-- could take their "coffee break" at the stump, choosing what they wished, drinking as much as they wanted, just so long as it didn't interfere with their ability to stay on their feet. Sometimes, an occasional quarter would be dropped in a kitty, "out of the goodness" of the big-hearted imbiber. More often than not the bill was footed by Ryan--who, besides all of his more pretentious designations as a pioneer, was probably Humboldt Bay's first "moonlighter" for bartending wasn't the least of his jobs, even if he wasn't on the job around the clock. The more business-like outlook concerning the liquor business took from when, about 1851, the Pioneer Saloon opened for business. It is a mystery why it took so long for an organized saloon to open in Eureka, but it is possible free enterprise-- the profit-making kind--didn't have a chance in the face of the give-away Redwood stump bar. The Pioneer Saloon's home was located on a corner, which was to be later occupied by Walsh's store. The building was owned by C.S.Ricks. The address, as near as we can find, was on Front Street. Old Pioneer Saloon's apparently endeared itself to the new community-- both the imbiber and the teetotaler. On Sunday's, religious meetings were held in the bar-room. However, so the worshipers could reflect in quiet reverence,, the bottles containing the exciting extract of rye were taken from the shelves to the counter, or a table, and carefully covered over with a large white cloth. It was too much to expect spiritual love to exuberantly burst forth as long as the joyous labels remained in view. There were many gala affairs held within the confines of the Pioneer Saloon. The floor was cleared of chairs and other obstacles, and the way made for "tripping the light fantastic toe," while Seth Kinman, on his old-mule-skull fiddle, would play until daylight. Dances then, never broke up before four or five o' clock in the morning--sometimes later. Since there were few women in Humboldt County, some who never danced before, they added their mite to the enjoyment of those early gatherings. The price of a ticket for a couple at the first balls in Eureka was sixteen dollars! Even so, it probably was worth every cent of it. --Andrew Genzoli. (AMERICANA) From THE NATIONAL OBSERVER, August 16, 1965 REFLECTIONS... ...On Sticky Flypaper Flypaper seems to have gone wherever 10-cent chunks of ice and the molasses barrel disappeared to while I wasn't looking. I can remember when these honey colored coils snaked down from the center of the ceilings in every room, and how angry my father would get when he absent-mindedly walked into them, which he did often. They came rolled up in cylinders that resembled shotgun shells, and when first hung they were as springy as new ribbon. As the weather got hotter, they drooped straight down, gently swinging a black cargo of dead flies as the heat dried the sticky glue and made them less effective. Sympathy for a Victim Each spring, when the flypaper was hung and wads of cotton tied to the door screens, it was officially barefoot weather. The necessity for these defensive insect death traps was easily understood, but I used to feel sorry for a trapped fly, as his frantic struggles only made his death more certain. Secretly, I would be elated when one would wrench free and made his way to freedom--unless he suffered the loss of a wing. But if my mother noticed an escape, up went a new ribbon. I still don't know why a wad of fluffy cotton should discourage a fly's entry--or if, indeed, it does. But for generations the doors of my house, and almost every house I know, have been decorated with them. In fact, the cotton balls have stayed on, despite the disappearance of the gummy flypaper. Fly Against Himself My mother was death on flies, and father always commented on their suicidal tendencies when they ventured indoors at our house. Actually, I don't know how they managed to enter. I was difficult enough for the children to squeeze in and out past the wildly flapping apron or dish towel she wielded at each opening of the door. If you didn't duck fast enough, or drop at all fours and creep in under the flying level, you were apt to receive a stinging lick across the face. Mysteriously, she managed to clean, cook, do the laundry and iron while manning a vigilant fly post at both front and back doors. Flypaper had a lot of uses the manufacturers and my mother didn't know about. Left with the care of the baby, you could cut some strips of new flypaper and he would spend an hour or more frowning worriedly and picking it first off one hand then the other, too busy to cry or kick up a fuss. Adding a few white feathers pulled through the pillow ticking made it even more engrossing. Harrassing the Cat Four tiny one-inch squares of fresh flypaper glued to the pads of her feet completely immobilized the family cat. She would prance around on her hind legs, then perform like a bucking bronco for a few steps before ungratefully thudding to the floor like a felled tree. She would lie there glowering, with ears laid back and her tail lashing in rage; not even a dish of salmon could lure her to her feet until the detested squares were removed. On rainy days you could use flypaper to glue paper dolls together; laid along a pantry and trail, it was almost as effective as poisonous ant paste. Blowing paper bags and coils of it kept robins away from the cherry tree and neighboring dogs away from the shrubs. Sadly, a modern pressurized can of insect spray just doesn't have the same character or possibilities as that of a bright new streamer of flypaper. --Mary J. Capps KINGDOM OF QUIVIRA from Redwood Country by Alfred Powers (Duell, Sloan & Piarce 1949) Twenty-three miles south of the Coquille River, in the Oregon region of Port Orford cedar and myrtlewood, along the ocean on the Coast Highway--Route 101--you cross the small steam of Sixes River. A mile farther on, a side road leads to the right for five and a half miles to Cape Blanco, which juts far out towards where the sun goes down. You continue south through Port Orford, Gold Beach, and Brookings (on the Chetco River, northernmost reach of the redwoods, here six miles from the California line but farther from it inland where the trees grow.) Soon on Route 101 you drive in among them, instantly getting and sharply losing the sense of their presence as almost at once you emerge, in a passage no longer than in and out of highway tunnel, for these first ones are but a clump which have survived a terrible fire. On through Crescent City, up from its flatness into the heights, winding among the big columns to the broad Klamath; through, drowsy in its antiquity, through Arcata smelling of fresh air and the fresh sea. Then through Eureka and out of it fifteen miles to a turn off, thirty-five miles in all, to another far out, thrusting headland--Cape Mendocino. You have been traveling--probably without knowing it--along the ocean edge of the fabulous Kingdom of Quivira. It includes all the redwood country except the most southern groves. Old maps, made before the Pilgrims came to Plymouth Rock, located the kingdom in the region now by northern California and southern Oregon. For two centuries it was put down on charts, atlases, and globes by renowned cosmographers on the strength of voyages which were never made, and of their own exuberant fancies. It was boldly set forth on Mercator's map in 1569. It appeared with remarkable persistence on others in 1570 (Ortelius), 1582 (Lok), 1587 (Hakluyt), 1592 (Plancius), 1597 (Wytfleit-Ptolemy), 1600 (Hondius), 1630 (Teixeira), 1637 (D'Avity), 1671 (Ogilby), 1750 (Delisle). Thus the widely respected cartographers of various nations dealt in factual terms with a myth, keeping the redwoods twice as long in the realm of Quivira as they have been in Del Norte, Humbolt and Mendocino counties on California. Quivira, the capital city, was located on the coast, usually in the neighborhood of Cape Mendocino. It was on a bay at the mouth of a big river. Far up this river was another important city, called Tuchano. South of Quivira, on the coast, was Cicuic, and south of it was Tiguex. In addition to the maps we have some quaint records, including one by Richard Hakluyt, who wrote as follows three-hundred-sixty year ago: "...and Francis Vasquez went to Tiguex, which standeth on the bank of a great river. There they had newes of Axa and Quivira. There they sayde was a King whose name was Tatarrax, with a long beard, horie headed...They determined to goe thither, with intention to winter in so rich a countrey as that was reported to bee... Quivira is in fortie degrees: it is a temperate countrey, and hath very good waters, and much grasse, plummes, mulberries, nuts, melons and grapes...They apparell themselves with oxe-hides and deeres skinnes. They saw shippes on the sea coast, which bare Alcatrarzes or Pelicanes of golde and silver in their prows, and were laden with marchandises, and they thought them to be of Cathaya, and China, because they shewed our men by signs they had sayld thirtie dayes." This city of Quivira on the coast of northern California and southern Oregon was the same town you may perhaps have read about in United States history books in school. Originally it was located far in the interior, northeast of Santa Fe, possibly in southern Kansas. You will recall that Coronado went north from Mexico in 1540. He found that the Seven Cities of Cibola didn't amount to much, and that Quiviria was an ordinary Indian wigwam village, not grand, not rich. The old mapmakers moved it over to the coast, and kept it there for two centuries, and the old chroniclers glorified it and wove mysteries about it and excited the imaginations of men. Maldonada, one of these old liars, said that in 1588, he had gone a large number of leagues through the Strait of Anian: "We concluded that continuing we might soon reach Quivira and Cape Mendocino." Torquemado said of Martin d'Augilar that he ran before the wind and anchored near Cape Mendocino, and later discovered a rapid and abundant river which the strong current kept him from entering: "It is supposed that this river is the one leading to a great city...and that the city called Quivira in these parts." Kingdom of Quivira Page 3 Truthful Coronado, in a letter to the Mexican viceroy in the summer of 1540, speakers of a map he had made . Cabrillo, who sailed up the coast in 1542, must also have made one. Yet the cortographers, without the sobering use of these maps, indulged in a great deal of pure fancy. Gamora, in a book published in 1552, was the first one to move Quivira from the Great Plains to the coast of northern California in the redwoods country. Quivira was created in an age of daringly medacious as it was daringly alive - - in the flood tide of men's spirits overflowing all the new real discoveries into endlessly imagined marvels. The actual voyage of the Golden Hind did not lay the myth; Edward Wright's 1598 map named Drake as one of the sources; yet Quivira was still there in its old location near Mendocino, and New Albion was north of it. Drake indeed simulated a notable piece of invention, Lord Bacon's philosophical romance New Atlantis, one of the celebrated Utopias, with its Bensalem probably located in the redwoods country. {In this work published in 1629 is an Iron Curtain curiously familiar three and a quarters centuries later.}Bensalem knew all about the rest of the world, which knew nothing about Bensalem. At regular intervals Bensalemites were sent out for observation sonjours in other nations, but during nineteen centuries only thirteen foreign visitors went back home with on Beslem, and the Beslemite authorities unworriedly figured these reports would not be believed anyhow. As late as 1603, the king of Spain and the viceroy of Mexico sent a navigator up the coast to find Quivira. Cabrillo was the one dispatched, with two ships carrying secret instructions to that effect. Padre Ascension claims to have known about these confidential orders. Said he: Philip III found among his fathers secret papers a sworn declaration that some foreigners had given him in which it is stated that they had seen and discovered some notable things, on passing through the Sriat of Anian, where they were driven in a ship by the great force of continual winds. In this they relate how they passed from North Sea to South Sea by this strait, and that, while searching for shelter from the storm, they entered a copious river, on which they came in sight of a populous and rich city named Quivira, well filled with civilized, courteous and very literate people wearing clothes, and well fortified ,and surrounded by a wall. It was in the latitude of 40 degrees, almost on the same parallel and in the same neighborhood as Cobo Mendocino, which the ships came to sight in sailing from the Philippines to New Spain. Other particulars were contained in this declaration worth finding out even investigating. All this moved his majesty to make every effort to find out about such a famous city and discover its situation. In the general latitude of Cape Mendocino the good padre reported that, notwithstanding every effort, no trace could be found of the rich capital. He declared: No news nor signs of the city of Quivira could be had during the whole course of the exploration. . .although some have thought that this Rio de Santa Inez (probably Mad River) is the one that reaches that city. Cape Mendocino, approximate locality of the kingdom's capital, was pictured by the padre as no less than a place distilling death in its fogs and winds. The Philippine galleons on their return to Acapulco hit the coast in this region. Sight of land after all the leagues across the Pacific ought to have made the mariners glad. But when their eyes beheld Cape Mendocino, or some place in that latitude, a terrible sickness seized them. A man's whole body grew at once so sore "that there was no relief except cries and groans." Next came purple spots larger than great mustard seeds. Then bands two fingers wide appeared at the joints, hardening like stone to make the legs and thighs stiff and strait, and setting them inflexible in the position they were when attacked. There was no consolation except to ask God to help him or to take him mercifully away from such an afflicted life. Sailor after sailor suddenly died , even while talking. From this Cape Mendocino pestilence, solemnly declared the padre, resulted nearly all the deaths that took place in the crossing from the Philippines. The disease struck down more than forty men of Cabrillo's fleet. The report, in the digest of it here, is much less vivid than in the fullness of the friar's telling. These strange and destructive miasmas of Cape Mendocino increased the mystery of Quivira, where of hoary-headed tatarrax was king. The moderns who live in the vicinity of that northern California headland, especially Eureka--the present-day city of Quivira--will no doubt be surprised to hear their climate was once as noxious as the good padre reported, when it is so salubrious now. Actually, however, Cape Mendocino is almost startling as a dividing point. The great headland, making a change in the direction of the coast line , affects the character of the winds ,the swell, the temperature. In January of 1886, a southwester registered a velocity of one hundred and forty-four miles an hour. The greatest Pacific swell in heavy southerly weather causes the sea to break in nine fathoms. The water is nearly the same temperature as it is many leagues to the north at the Strait of San Juan de Fuca, whence sometimes a vessel will carry clear weather all the way till running into dense fogs at Cape Mendocino and having them on into San Francisco. So, after all , Cape Mendocino is a rather peculiar place , and the Spaniards of three centuries ago in the simplicity of their living would have noticed things in nature concealed from our sophisticated awareness--and a little superstition, stimulated by the real singularity of this promontory, could have made it into a suitable region for such a kingdom of Quivira . For the long period of two hundred years the mythical realm remained upon the maps. So persistent is the hold of fable that down to about 1750 some men still believed that the kingdom of Quivira-- Quivira Regnum--actually existed. today the territory of that long-imagined domain is the Redwood Empire, exciting now with its forests, as it once did with its mystery, the imaginations of men.